chris r

Tool some brave pills today and got out the extension and the holesaw Took a couple of cuts to find where the top was. Hind site says dropping the subframe would have made that easier but the cbfs were strong The shifter lines up nicely with the console which is nice, I might need to cut/weld/adjust the shifter so its not so far back but I'll wait until its bolted in and the steering wheel/column back in Cv boots arrived for the rear, Fitted them and the crv diff when I was under there CRV diff (right hand side)looks slightly different but bolts in the same

Lapped the valves in Gave up fighting the keepers so called it a night after only getting two sorted

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Becaue everyone likes pics of honda stuff here's some more Grabbed some dowls from work that actually fit Borrowed the 14mm hex of the neighbor and put in the an fitting into the block so I'll actually have a chance at pcv stuff. Next time I'm at lockup I'll grab a catch can and see if it'll fit

Bilstein do replacement struts and koni do inserts. As I understand the issue is from the steering arm being welded (and cast) on the majority of aftermarket coilovers.

Got the bottom end assembled, windage tray and oil pickup on. Sump gasket pood onto the sump with black schmoo like factory. Replaced bypass spring and valve as it was cheap enough Had a cunt of a time with the crank seal in the oil pump, after about 10 attempts I got it in properly. Attempted to wrinkle black the rocker cover. Etch primed it in the paint booth and peaked there Sat the head on and test fitted the cheap headers, I'll get away with a 2.5" 90 bend off them and it'll line up nicely with the rest of the exhaust. Hopefully I can move the cat up and fit the reso and flexi in Unsurprisingly the dowel pins that came with aliexpress kit are shit, flop around in the head and don't for the block or the head bolts. Fitted the shifter cables and sat the crv shifter in to see where stuff wants to sit. I'll need to very carefully drill the firewall and miss the heater core and ducting. I can pretend I'm a rally/race driver as the crv shifter is super tall Mounted the oil feed plate to feel better about fighting the rings and crank seal today

More wiring Sat head on so I could figure out where plugs etc wanted to go Intake for the same reason Some split conduit and a roll abd a half of tape later Vtax wire is pinned into the ecu, reverse light switch wires are run to the plug and I'll pick a couple of wires from the inhibitor/auto stuff that I can repurpose for the lights. I grabbed a jaycar speedo corrector as the crv has a different final drive etc and it'd be nice to have a correct speedo. Other ring set arrived from rock and my dipstick and some seals arrived from amayama Got a decent list of stuff to do tomorrow, hopefully I can get most of it done and have it drivable in a week, my tuner only has a small window of time and I start a new job in a couple of weeks so it'd be nice to have everything done before then/before I loose access to the hoist at my current job

Shrink wrapped the block so I could make some progress on everything else. Barry crane setup and got the block in Flywheel and clutch on/torqued up After falling off the jack four times the gearbox just slid on with no dramas Slave on and it all blead up relatively quickly Drivers cv/axle installed

Reinstalled the konis into the shuttle and put the yuck 17s off the orthia on Got drivers side front in and realised that I've got two right hand side ef forks which sucks. I thought I had hoarded more but clearly not. Did a service on the beagle and the 'you might need to keep a eye on it' oil leak did need a eye kept on it. Both sides are that bad, it'll drip onto the drive shafts and go everywhere. Atleast it won't rust I guess I nipped up the sump bolts which were a Smidge loose but not horrible Wanged the phone down and had a look at what I could see. I'm wondering if the $4 rock auto filter was weeping or if the oil cooler o ring has perished and is leaking. I'll throw another bottle of stop leak and some degreaser at it then have a look later

I'd say just bring Canada paperwork/proof it's yours and plead ignorance with jdm r grade stuff. I don't know/imagine they'd have any access to jdm auction stuff /barry out

3/4 ain't bad. Mains and rods torqued to spec and it spins freely which is good More spaghetti Turned it into this. Vtec wire re run and run the reverse light wires That's all I can do on the loom until I get the motor/box into the car. Those rings are holding up the process a fair bit

bolt box came up a winner bit of angle grinder/drill action and we are all good crv hard line even fits pretty good got correct rod bearings and clearances are what they are so I'm gonna send it Assembles the rings onto the pistons, I lost my good ring compressor so grabbed a cheapie.... And paid the price. tap tap, piston feels a bit stuck so back it out and try again Will have to order another ring set now which has ripped my undies

More clutch schenanagins Circlip didn't want to come out nicely The rod is a bit longer But not long enough Will rummage around in the bolt box tomorrow and see if I can find one long enough to barry to suit

Gave up on the idea of the arp rod bolts, will need to be pressed in and honed to suit. I'll just Wang the stock ones back in. They were good enough for the last build so they'll be good enough for this Went to assemble and rod bearing looked off Turns out my motor has the wider bearing which is the same as the vtec motors. Vacuumed/cleaned all the swarf out of the head and put the oil feed plug in Modded s2000 clutch master is perfect distance for the pedal. But the reservoir hits everything The Facelift orthia must have a different firewall as the earlier ones share the same clutch master as the civics/integras and those need a spacer for the s2000 master to work. I'll extend the rod to suit as I don't want to wait or pay for for the genuine master

Fitted main bearings and crank today Cheap and cheerful one size fits all rock auto bearings are within spec which is nice Smidge bigger than 0.02 which is factory spec ish so that's a win Will do pistons/rods/arp rod bolts tomorrow. Attempted to fit oil pump today and managed to mangle that seal. Luckily I ordered another by mistake with my last amayama order so that should be here next week

Not shit oil fitting arrived Openings for the oil feed are actually at the top of the fittingand are open and not obstructed Past me loctite the fittings into the shit sandwich plate so they'll need to get warm to be taken out. Hopefully they aren't complete chinesium and strip on the way out

Modern daily meet?

Pink plz with purple highlights on the Honda

Sold crv today. Turners cash now ftw. Super easy process and zero drama on my end. So so much better than trademe

Gave the pistons a bath in simple Green and exoff Before on bottom and top after the first soak Bit of scotchbrite and a pick for the ring grooves Figured out the shift lights on the orthia/crv. Had to do some modifications to the indicator so it doesn't need the ecu/module doesn't need to be there https://i.imgur.com/u8MT9Mv.mp4 Inhibitor wired up https://i.imgur.com/ghxEWGn.mp4

Apparently 20a ish? I can possibly test the set I'm about to be working with

Trip to wash world to blast the worse of the oil sludge off Onto the healing bench in my 'clean room' Rangi de glaze Yes I know I should mic everything and measure it blah blah. If I don't measure it I don't know how bad it is so I can live happily in denial. My theory is it was running well enough and not making bad noises before so it'll be good enough to go back together as it was. Vtec oil pump fitted The aliexpress oil feed kit is as good as the manifold and valve compressor tool Somehow the oil is meant to magic its way through that fitting on the block. Then through that fitting and into the head The fitting also seperates the un filtered oil and filtered oil with fresh air and hopes so doesn't instill much confidence at all. What did I expect for $50... Glad I figured it out now rather than once everything was installed and on startup

Stripped the block this morning. Looks super clean for 300 thousand Bearings look a bit worn but not fucked I'll need to do a bit of 'porting' on the oil drains on the vtec head so it matches up with the 2L bottom end

https://www.pantera-electronics.com/epbcontroller.htm I've found this controller. Currently working on if we can get it to meet cert specs

So clutch master stuff Crv on the left and s2000 on the right (gene) the s2000 need a spacer to be fitted to civics etc) Left two are s2000 and right is the crv. The crv has a shorter u clip and push rod. I swapped the pushrods and u clip over. Will test fit tomorrow