Guypie

How much quicker are they with a silvertop? as is it feels pretty similar to my ae101 levin with silvertop. They are a lot cheaper/more common if the 16v blew up. Still working through a few little issues: -creaking noise from the rf under braking, gets worse the harder you brake. probably one of the pad shims out of place/touching the rotor or something -when its cold it has a terrible flat spot from 1k to 2k rpm. It got a little better when I turned up the idle mixture potentiometer, prob just needs moar rich. -It has a loose wire to the lf bumper indicator, the bulb is fine but only goes intermittantly -It has a bit of a tick under accelleration, probably has a exhaust leak from the header flange, might just need nuts retightened. -the big one is that the radiator fan does not seem to switch on automatically like it should, which means I cant take it through traffic at the moment. So will be trying to get the worst of these ironed out this weekend, but have still clocked up about 100km since wof and no major issues.

WOOH LEGAL!!! Trackday is on! Will find time in the next couple of days to take it somewhere pretty to take pictures. Maybe I will even wash it!

Picless update time. Took this machine for a WOF on friday, failed on: Front brake hoses perished Play in RF wheel LF CV boot leaking grease onto braking components Rear brake imbalance (RR dragging) LR stoplight not working Then went camping. Got back late today and got one brake hose sorted and bled, found the RF play was due to one of the bolts that holds the shock absorber to the hub was loose. also found it has adjustable camber on the front, tha'ts cool! Super stoked with the wof results, there was always going to be something considering this is the first WOF in 14 years but its all cheap/easy to fix. will hopefully have enough light to get the rest smashed out before the end of the day tomorrow night then recheck on Wednesday.

yeah... I just shook up the tin for a bit. might need to make a stirring stick for the drill. Oh well, better luck next time!

Quick question. The car is now running mint, however in a box of parts I got from the previous owner I found a oxygen sensor, and there is a blanking plate on the header where it belongs. Do these early 4ages normally have a exhaust O2 sensor or is this a case that the manifold is aftermarket/off a blacktop or something and it is not needed on this car? I cant find a plug that it looks like it belongs to or anything. Since its working mint now its not really a big deal, just a bit of a mystery.

So I covered some rust repairs and rust treatments in protec epotec 408, I used the right reducer at 20% when spraying. I put it on way too thick but this is mostly because it seemed really trasparent. Did I do something wrong or is it just really transparent? It doesnt really matter as its just to protect the metal and the car will be painted later but its just a bit weird, normally primers are opaque. example:

Finally got this thing working again after the spark disappearing on me. After replacing the coil and ignitor and lots of fluffing around I called an auto electrician to come and have a look. He suspected the ECU so after getting a replacement off pbaines (super fast delivery! 10/10 would get their tofu delivered on time by his AE86) it was all go again, retimed to 10 degrees at idle (the IACV I rebuilt is working fine now too) In the meantime I stripped some paint back where rust was showing through, had to do some welding around the fuel filler area as it looks like water has been finding its way past the seam sealer and sitting between the outter panel and the filler pocket thing. There were a couple of little holes, note really enough to patch though so I drilled them out til the metal was a bit thicker and filled with weld and ground it back. First attempt at spraying 2k primer, I really went way too thick because I was expecting it to be opaque but it is kind of a weird milky transparent colour. Is this corract? its protec epotech 408 and I used the prescribed reducer and waited the 10min after mixing before spraying. Anywho its not permanant its just to protect it until it gets a full makeover (so a long time) Anywho next up is putting some new wiper arms on and go see if I can pass a WOF!

Its an AE82 corolla GT. I might call them and see what they can do

Nah he just took the ignitors I had away for testing. I have pulled the ECU now to look for a second hand one, wouldn't surprise me if its gone screwy, the one in my ae101 has had to be replaced and has since generated another error code on in but still works ok so no biggie. Really want to get this thing on the road for nats trackday.

Cool, welding done hopefully no problems. Funny thing is that before welding I had an auto electrician looking at it because its not giving consistant spark, and he suspects the ECU. so its probably stuffed anyways hahaha. Its going to look a bit dodge though when I post up a "WTB ecu" thread directly after the "how to not blow up ECU when welding?" thread.

What precautions should I take when welding on a car with EFI? I have heard that removing the earth lead on the battery is sufficient but wanted to confirm.

Its probably still floating around somewhere, cant remember where. You gunna make a EFI scooter? I will have a hunt around and see if I can find it later.

Last time I changed clutch springs on a scooter I used a vice on the big nut and a oil filter strap wrench on the clutch bell for leverage, it worked pretty well and a lot cheaper than a giant socket.

Ok so I put the throttle assembly all back together, slammed it on and fired it up, ran fine. I realised I forgot to plug the TPS in, d'oh silly me, turned car off, plugged it in and tried to start it again and it wouldn't go, gave a little cough and died. After fluffing around for a bit I decided to go back to basics, air,fuel,spark etc. started on spark because easy. No spark. hmmm. I have no idea whats up with that. Could forgetting to plug the tps in have damaged any components? Theres an immobiliser that is half uninstalled maybe that is to blame? Any suggestions?

I read on the interwebs they are no longer available, but should probably call and find out anyways. Will have a go slamming this one back together anyways, found an article on how to adjust them for wear and tear and its spent a few hours in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Got a pile of parts to put in this thing, fitted the caliper seal kits, bled the front end and installed new pads and rotors. Brakes are feeling a lot better now and not sticking on. Have not touched the rear end but they seem to have repaired themselves. Wouldn't surprise me if I needed to do something there some wof time/ brake balance check but I will wait and see. Shiney new brakes I also changed the injector o rings that seal to the intake manifold. Couldn't find them anywhere but Toyota, at $10.50 a piece they aren't cheap! They did not solve my poor Idle problem either dangit! ah well one less thing to do at least. good news though is that Toyota cocked up and put 2 seals in one of the bags. Bonus! So after a bit of googling on 4age idle problems (there is a lot of info out there on this!) I decided to take off the throttle body and check out the IACV and see whats going on there. It was clogged with rust and junk in the coolant pipes, so definitely not doing its job. Will try to clean it out give it a test by dunking it in hot water, it has a wax element type thing in it like a thermostat. Given the state of it though I am not holding my breath And heres one last picture of the car being super square.

Is the standard strut brace in the front good enough or should i make an additional one? Also would probably want to find spare interior parts before cutting holes to fit a rear strut brace.

Yeah, there is a panel under the back seat, but it only accessed the fuel sender, the pump was separate. Just been trying to research lowering springs, apparently kings are too soft and jamex are ok but not great. So that tells me what not to get hahaha

Aaaaand heres a couple more pictures. If anyone has any recommendations for lowering springs for these cars please let me know in the discussion, its fairly boaty as is.

Recieved new injectors for this on saturday from tim13 (many thanks!) and replaced number 4 injector. Drained the "coolant" and the stuck a hose in the thermostat housing and walked away for 30min til the water ran clear. Filled it up again and popped a thermostat in (it was missing, not a great sign) Put on my Volk 5/4s because they have mint tyres, will be returning the minilites to it once they have good tyres. The tyres in the minilites are cracked they are so old and hard. And took it for a drive! It ran well aside from having a vacuum leak and the brakes are dragging. Both fronts and probably both rears too, they were smoking a bit when we got back from going round the block twice. So next up is caliper rebuilds, probably new rotors and pads too.

Did compression test and sparkplugs today. Compression came out at 1: 170 2: 175 3: 170 4: 178 Changed plugs, fired up, still running on 3, sounds better than before though. Pulled lead number 4 and no change. checked for spark on number 4 and it was there. Do fuel injectors go bad if sitting too long/start attempts on ancient fuel? Any suggestions? Also number 4 seems a little oily inside.

I paid $800 for this, theres one on trademe for $3700. Tell 'im 'es dreamin mate. Probably worth somewhere in the middle for a good runner i guess?

I have heard from someone that it is not worth getting iridium/platinum spark plugs, just to get copper ones and replace them every 10,000 when you do an oil change. I know the silvertop is specified for iridium or better but how important is this? Basically Im a cheapo, but if it does matter I will splash out on the $130 or so for fancy schmancy spark plugs

Fuel pump arrived yesterday (just in the nick of time! thanks Frosty!) and I put that in, loaded her up with 15 liters of the good stuff and had a go at starting it. Heres a video: Ok so its running on 3 cylinders by the sound, I did get it to run without dying but definitely on 3 or less. I have not changed the sparkplugs yet so thats the first thing I will do once the shops open. I also have a friends compression tester so might give it a test and see what that says. In the meantime we got the windscreen replaced: Before: Heather being a stalker during the replacement: And After: So heres the current list of things to do before wof: -Full service (hopefully sparkplugs will get it running on 4) -Replace tyres (current ones are old/crusty/perished) -Treat rust (nothing major that I can see just needs to be neutralised) -Get a battery with the correct size terminals -Check over braking system