NVMPAJ

Have played with the solenoid (definitely a solenoid ) I put 12 volts on it and it opens or closes a valve that allows the oil to flow. Am thinking that in this model there is suppose to be a reservoir hence the 56 fault code but not knowing what pins are meant for it , I can only guess. Fuel pump could be there tonite yay .

http://www.hydraforce.com/Mach_Contrl_Solutns/Fan_Drive_Solutns/Hydr-Fan-Drv_Bultn.pdf Here's an interesting bit of info .

Right I traced the wires to pins 29 and 30 . Next trick I'll get power on and see what volts if any are at the solenoid. The wiring diagram says the pins are for an EGR valve , it's all good fun while I wait for my fuel pump

I'll check out the "solenoid" it looked connected the other day , if it is a solenoid I suppose it gets told to energise by the ECU and allows the fan to turn when at the correct temp. My intention is to use the Pajero electric blower fan and maybe two sucker ones. Pajeros have shit loads of fans already so another two wont hurt!

I might trace them and determine what pins they go to , I have a theory that the hydraulic fan wiring is some sort of pressure switch , no pressure no fan then code 56 tells you the fan is disconnected. Mind you if the motor goes ok who cares! Had another sale on trademe so will have funds to get my fuel pump , motor running on YouTube soon

I'm thinking bout the 56 fault . As there is only the 56 and not the left and right O2 faults. Do you reckon then it must be the fan not connected , as opposed to something else , have you tried shorting the pin 1 to earth to clear it . I suppose I should trace the fan solenoid wires , but I can bet they just go to the dash . I wonder also if there are other wiring diagrams out there that mention the fan , you would think so as it seems to be a common item on these engines

Have gone thru updating the pics will get more on now that I can use photobucket!!

Heres the Pajero , waiting patiently for a bit better motor!!

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake.htm Here ya go

Older cars had a by pass in the master cylinder that when there was a leak in front or back the bypass would kick in and shut off the affected cylinder , so some how maybe you need to reset your master cylinder . I could be wrong tho!!

Anyway the pic shows my ecu I'm looking at mounting it behind the glove box , the loom can come in thru a hole I'll need to drill below the battery

Yay I did it just had to get rid of the blonde hair......thanks mate

Have sorted oil pressure problem , priming oil pump was needed , wiring is almost complete to just have one fault code to sort . Will mount Toyota ECU in behind glove box hopefully my pic loading works this time!! http://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/nvmpaj/media/image-4.jpg.html

Cleared the 31 fault ........bloody had the sensor feed on the wrong pin so afm had no power haha , also have oil pressure ,sussed out just had to take the filter off ,hold my thumb over the centre hole and crank then , out comes the oil. All I have now is the 56 fault that apparently is the hydro fan . I can't find where it connects to the ECU , it's coming down to my old adage ...there's always one!!! I'm champing at the bit to get a fuel pump now ........

Have had fun turning over the motor tonight , my relay box works well. Still to get fuel pump ,but not far away now . I used the diagnostic method you've outlined and think by the count of the engine light it has two fault codes 31 and 56 . 31 looking like vacuum sensor and the 56 is the hydro fan so I'm pretty happy . I'm going to prime the oil pump tomorrow and play some more , your thread has been a godsend Nigel , thanks again. I think I'm counting the flash of the light correctly cos I assume it can't be 3 , 1 , 5, then 6

You gotta bleed all the brakes starting with furthest one away from the resovoir finishing at the closest ,but you may have damaged the piston as well

Right have given up on the idea of a Toyota relay/fuse box . Just got an Opel one which is full of 30amp of the shelf Bosch plugins a lot simpler to wire and will give me more options

Hi Nigel , I've been sorting the wiring on my motor , have marked up the wires with grafoplast numbering ( great kit care of work) just read your post above I might keep it in mind and see if there's a difference later on . Am waiting for my sump to be welded then will get the motor to fire up soon. Took the dash off the Pajero which really didn't help much re getting it to work off the Lexus , am thinking I may just have a separate system of warning lights and gauges , I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Am thinking my next project will be a Capri , just seem to offer the classic look and ability to take the 1UZ

Have started sorting out wiring .Nigelwade is a legend with his how to , instead of pissing around trying to colour code everything I've got access to wire numbers so I'm just tagging the wiring I want to use with the letters/ numbers from the lextreme diagram. Tracing wiring is fun!

I'd say its in limp mode stuck in one gear for getting home , probably a wire off or blown fuse

Right I've given my 'sump' to a real welder to get right , in the meantime I'm playing about with a factory toyota fuse/ relay box to use to make the 1uz go ,actually not that easy but it matches up quite well with what I need to make things work. And means I shouldn't have to interfere too much with the Pajero wiring

Yeah right!! More like tacky tacking . Na the idea is to get one made using my rusty abortion as a template. I tried to weld it to see how good I was , turns out I may have invented gas cutting with a mig welder

Have trialed a mockup sump . Seems to fit okay ,will still go for the rare as hens teeth rear sump but will use my home made one in the meantimeThis is the pic of my mockup it avoids the front diff and also the drive shaftThis other pic from google shows the sort of thing I might have to if and when I get the rear one