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Muncie

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Everything posted by Muncie

  1. Still got a high idle and a squeek coming from somewhere when on boost, idle is actually fine cold and progressively gets higher as it warms before it settles at 1350rpm and just stays there. 7th time manifold off? Is it time to give up on this particular inlet manifold..... probably, I have the stock one I could cut up and do a nicer job of I might throw some gaskets at it first incase I've pinched something not resorted to RTV yet.
  2. Started doing fuel reg upgrade ordered wrong hose tails I'll eventually go to a different fuel rail so this is all proof of concept so it can be road tuned. Will have to hold to smaller hose tails arrive. Have done speedflow AN6 for return as had those parts in my stash. Was able to squeeze the hose over larger tail but I can see it failing and starting a huge fire so I'll wait it actually split sitting over night so I'm glad I didn't fuck around and find out. Hopefully this evens out the fueling which is rich as fuck at idle and close enough to leave alone at 6000rpm.
  3. Checked my last Wof sheet have only done 1500 k's since last wof. Wof expires on 1st of December that's a pain in butt as it's ready to race once I fit new fuel pressure regulator. I'll probably have to take turbo off and get another Wof if I want to be at OS Drag day. If I roll up to Wof shop with turbo and intercooler gone but running turbo manifolds wonder how I'll fare? Its easy enough to just bypass from v band from turbo straight to exhaust with a small adapter. Bugger going right back to stock manifolds way to much work if I don't need too.
  4. 2-1 for the win you can make a lawn mower engine sound good surely some options out there, are Harris pipes still a thing?
  5. It's bloody miiiiiiiiint!
  6. You forgot the bit about it been completely restored to basically as new
  7. Same arms no changes other than moving flange hub mounts to inboard 30mm. Basically mount arm in jig remove 30mm strip and weld a replacement flange on shortened up stuff to suit. I just hate the piss week offset the rear has to use up the space available how I'd like rims are $1900 each.
  8. What's the go with narrowing track on an independent rear car? If you've seen my commodore thread I've been mucking around with BMW wheels to get the width I want under the ass. How much hard work would it be to cert rear arms if I were to cut back the mounting flange for the hub then have a new one laser cut and basically remove 30mm track per side to get the tyres tucking back under? Yes I know it sounds like a lot of work but for me any chance to break out the welder and "meditate" is a good thing 100% reversible unlike pumping the guards etc
  9. Did some stuff that feels insignificant but has made this thing way nicer. Took the crossover pipe out and cut 10mm out of the up pipe to get it away from the subframe as it makes a ridiculously loud rattle as it only just touches the but enough to drive me mental, 2 hours later rattle is 99% gone I think what's left is probably something to do with the exhaust which is due its own work. I installed a check valve in the brake vacuum hose. This thing occasionally stalls still bugger me what a luxury brakes are when the engine stops halfway through a turn. I put gas in it! At a petrol station I know amazing right? then drove it around to get dinner and got pulled over for MY LED headlights and sent on my way with a friendly recommendation to put the stock ones back in which I will. I'm going to put the other wheels back on for now this thing blazes the 275's without too much effort so I will stick some better shocks in and worry about looks later cert shit and all. Now it's had a good run it's running a heap better.
  10. I'm still mucking around with tunerpro and Delco buggery with some reasonable success but still some problems. If anyone has or knows their way around this stuff I'd like to bounce ideas around.
  11. I can't get mine to idle but runs clean up to 6000rpm...... what's this about screw drivers? Which port on laptop do I insert a flathead for idle speed.
  12. It's an ass about setup having airflow meter in the pressure side it does work fine, has some benefits too any leaks pre afm don't really affect how the car runs. However anything after the MAF fucks things up even worse.
  13. I mainly want to fit the BOV as this doses its head off and stupidly loud surely not fantastic for the turbo over longer term. I have another ecu im building up that's going to have a few more inputs so can run a MAP sensor once it's put together needs a expensive board to replace the EEPROM so that's a little down track. There is ways to tune MAFLESS but needs expensive software and I'm not at the level to do it by a long shot. So BOV is mainly to stop compressor surge and hopefully make it a bit less conspicuous, once I turn it up a bit to its only going to get worse.
  14. D1NZ Forum? To be fair its a 50mm the pressure drop once that sucker opens placement probably is that important for this thing. I've got bugger all joins in system so I've got to able to screw them back in, passengers side one goes in with three full turns before it finds home. Not alot of free metal either to put the V band in to.
  15. Have done oil change and fuel filter delighted to find fuel filter wasn't full of junk. Oil was free of any sparkles too but black as Guinness for 2000ks better keep chipping away at the rich tune.
  16. I could stick behind bumper but worried about road dirt getting in to it. Drivers side of engine bay has fuse box maf ABS and cruise control unit oh the power steering reservoir and now the catch can too. She's pretty busy that side ! I know by throttle body is best but I'm up against packaging problems now.
  17. This is last few bits mainly service stuff, good synthetic oil trying a k&n oil filter heard good things about these on v6s with better oil pressure. An8 fuel pressure reg fuel haven't decided how to fit it yet. Dump valve will probably go by turbo mainly because there's nowhere else it will fit, can't go by throttle body due to MAF and other sensors already there.
  18. Took it for blat with 3 passengers and its amazing the extra weight makes no difference how much it puts you back in seat previously the extra weight would really be noticeable. It's only scratching surface too a $2500 engine build with some ARP hardware this thing would be incredible and bullet proof and allow me to push limits further all the supporting stuff turbo injectors etc are good for 500+hp conservatively.
  19. It's seems counter intuitive to me last thing I tuned with a turbo had mechanical injection and a dizzy this is a steep learning curve! The fact it's not dead must mean I'm pretty close and the information off the internet is actually correct....... the logs tell a story too. Data! Data is bloody awesome!
  20. Next things, fit new rising rate fuel reg and a boost controller and see how it likes 12psi should be set to kill at that! Exhaust needs lifting up at front is a bit low haven't snagged it but I would like to lower car soon. @tortron donated a PCM to the build it needs an extra board fitted fitted but that will allow it to be live tuned while running. I've got flashing in a tune down to about 2 minutes at moment the maps can be carried over so it's not a wasted effort at this stage. The bmw wheels fit up front fine so think ill try find some 9's for the back too 10's look awesome but without flares aren't covered enough at back so back to basics again.
  21. Yeah I wanted to try it as in theory should be safer but this thing doesn't get over 25c inlet temps so probably way too conservative my old supercharged one used to melt the plastic cage off inlet temp sensors if they were screwed in manifold.
  22. Spent a few hours tweaking the tune again using the wideband now makes this so much easier as I can do logs see what it's up to against all the other information. I've pulled 15% of fuel out of most parts of map and it's going better and stinking less it's still a bit rich though. I can adjust trims to tidy that up. Tried running the supercharged v6 timing maps and it straight up was piss weak as soon as it came on boost it was flat it pulled but no where near as hard as modified ecotec timing. I still have an idle issue cold start it fires Instantly sits at 750rpm perfectly after about 20 seconds it tries to stall once you rev it up it then creeps up to 1400 rpm and stays there.... got me buggered for now I'll figure it out later I think I may have IAC wiring wrong somewhere. I've bought some more exhaust parts to break the exhaust into 3 pieces downpipe, mid section and rear with a flex joint up front. Hopefully this makes it more convenient to service. Drag day is coming...... it'll go hard as it is It's just a bit cranky with that idle.
  23. @holdenman more information im intrigued!
  24. I decided to rule out anything weird it's time to stick the Factory PCM back in I fitted second hand one ages ago so I didn't risk bricking it while learning flash tuning. Seeing as car is now so far from stock it wouldn't run on it anyway with a stock tune nothing to lose. Flashed in my new Tune I've built on my bench setup tested coms are good everything was happy plugged it in started first pop. Tested in car on logging the wideband is definitely giving a signal to the ecu im unsure what its been displayed as through tunerpro if it's AFR it's running at 10.7:1 if it's voltage I've fucked up somewhere along lines as output should be 0-5 volts the signal is clean at least and tracks same as narrowband, I can work with that.
  25. Did some stuff today fitted the new genuine Delphi TPS I got from @vk327 looks like the one on there was another Knock off brand any none genuine sensor has royally screwed me with this car, photo of old fake one compared old to new one with car plugged in to laptop there was some weird shit going on with voltage jumping around at certain place. New one linear as no dicking around.
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