yetchh

Yeah I know cruisers do it as well.. My guess is that most manufacturers do it to suppress the temperature fluctuations diesels create

@Truenotch soz for the spam, I still have a 1kz hangover...

22 hours ago, JustHarry said:

Sounds about right fuel economy wise.

They're pretty sensitive to how you drive too. Lots of full boost time makes it suck diesel. It is a pretty old Design motor and the electric pumps are getting to an age where sensors/ecus are giving a bit of grief 

My kzj78 on 33s does about 14l/100k on average. With the caravan/parachute on the back it was much worse.  But was also working pretty hard . Never been hot other than when the head ate shit. But otherwise it's done a lot more towing than a 1kz probably should and still does it 

Must be a power thing then, my 185 was rated at 106kw vs I guess the 96kw of the kzj, what were you getting on standard 31's

I'm pretty sure that only works on early 90's  hiluxes, I couldn't do it on my kzn185 (if you can I couldn't find the method) @Truenotch is the van quite heavy? I used to get 9.5km/l with mine and that would jump to 13-14km/l towing with me doing 95-100kph.. 

The start up sounds epic, 500rpm with cold start enrichment for max lumpy idle.. Excellent job bro, should prob have a drive of the imp in its current guise so I can make comparisons.. 

They kind did, but the surf had a thinner radiator and smaller fan from the start, prado and hilux both had thicker radiators and fans with the prado having a cooler stat but they all still had issues at some point with a lot of it coming back to the the viscous hub/cooling system condition (and diving style) My 1kz managed to do 360km with its original head but I put that down to me being proactive for the last 120km and taking all steps to avert overheating. When I first bought it in 2013, the gauge would move when overtaking a semi trailer on the open road but I never let it get into the red, they don't use speed for cooling, it's all down to the fan and in the end for me it was only my heavy foot with a load on that would cause the gauge to move, that and the low speed thing which I thick is fixable also. The other thing that you should use is a egt gauge that way you know exactly what's going on. 

I tried the 1kd blue hub (brand new from toyota) on mine but didn't even make it halfway up takaka hill with an empty trailer before the guage started moving, went back to the kzn165 hub that I put on and had no more dramas (apart from my driving style) 10000cst oil didn't really help much so I bought 30000cst from acorn models and went about 50/50 with 10000cst, when it came fully on it would sap a bit of power but fuck it moved some air... had the 10 blade fan and also a B&M trans cooler with thermo fan.. 

The main problem I found with hill towing was low speed and not enough air flowing over the interheater so everything would slowly heat soak, I was about to start spraying water over the cooler to see if that helped but the car got nicked.... Problem solved

If you're gonna tow with a 1kz you need to make sure your cooling is tip top, 3" turbo back helps a lot for cool running as does the prado 82deg stat, check your fan for oil, I added a fairly high weight oil as opposed to the factory 10cst meant that when the fan came on there wasn't much slippage.. I also put in a redline 4 core rad as factory they're average, for the surf anyway. 

4 hours ago, ThePog said:

Brush on would be ok for a lot of what I am doing...

I do know someone coming to chch in the next couple of days, what part of town are you?

Happy to flick some cash your way.

Dang, I just drove back from chch today.. 

They get lost in the sands of time... 

Started painting bits, initially I thought of left my gun in chch so thought I give a reusable spray can a go, bought a jacquard youcan from the warehouse and had a crack.. Was a bit of a pain as I constantly had to clean it and could only put a small amount of paint in it or it would lots pressure too quick (takes 100psi)and splatter paint instead of spraying, good for a small job. Managed to spray one set of springs, brake drums and saddle plates, then found my gun.. Suffice to say it's waaay quicker and cleaner hah. 

Coat of epoxy then a coat of satin chassis paint.. 

Gave the head the same treatment, 

All came up looking good, especially the dampers when you look at them before. 

Also decided that while all this was out I'd vacuum under there, should really have had it steam cleaned but meh, scraped 60 years of dust and crud from around the arches.. 

One side... 

Bit of an update, took a bunch of bolts and stuff down with me to chch to be cleaned up and plated which worked out mostly good bar the bit where some bolts for lost including one front eye bolt and two handbrake return springs, bit if a cunt especially the eye bolt, also after telling the bloke what I wanted plated some bits got missed which isn't a biggie just a bit annoying that this shit gets missed, also ended up having to have a new driveshaft made as apparently reputable companies have stopped making the smaller 1850 uj's and they all now come from China and have too much radial movement so i either take the risk or for double get a new one with the larger v8 uj's (*sigh) cost me but I seemed to be having bad luck with the things.. Got a lowering kit from chamberlain's and a full set of superpro bushes, bought some more paint and other bits and pieces.. 

Stripped the diff and gave it some rust treatment, 

Spent a few hours splitting up the springs and getting them back to good metal, had a fair amount of wear which would go some way to explaining their performance.. 

The antifriction pads had seen better days, can only find these particular pads in urethane which seems to be a bad choice for such a high wear environment, have ordered a 250mm rod of 50mm uhmwpe to make some better ones. 

Fuck yeah bro, what an epic journey.. Know that roller-coaster well so I'm stoked for you. 

3 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

My 64 Hillman Minx lower shock mounts attach to the leaf spring plate. It doesn't seem to cause any problems.  

16 minutes ago, bigfoot said:

My lancer ones too

They do also on my 929 coupe but they are pressed on such a way as to give strength, the kits sold for the mk3 have no gusseting or any strengthening and are just a thinnish extended spring plate to accommodate the bottom shock mount.. For $900 they'd need to be better IMO. 

8 hours ago, tortron said:

Lever arm morrie trick is just put thicker fluid in, 30wt I think it was for a firmer road feel

Have also seen a tube with adjustable fitting added to connect the two cylinders to give adjustable dampening 

Yeah I've seen that, also read a bit about oil thickness as well. I'll pull them apart and give them a service with 30wt.

Finally got the chance to get the zed out of the rust hell hole that is New Brighton. I was gonna wof her down in chch but it was too much of a mission so I decided to trailer her up to the bay as I was down for the school hols, it also meant I could free up some space at my mums (47 and still haven completely left). 

Despite my best efforts this time with the tunnel house I couldn't get it to stay dry which isn't ideal out in Brighton, there would always be light moisture on the car, even with a car cover, so pulled her out and pulled it down

Mum can now park her car back there... 

7 hours ago, Roman said:

Yes, these motors are a bit like lego sets. 

There is the head, itself, then there's another layer up that holds the underside of the cams and rockers. Then cam caps bolt onto that. 
The 1GR engine, unlike the others is actually a valve on bucket engine. 
So, although it would be a bit of an engineering exercise. Not impossible to design a completely different cam/rocker arrangement that bolts on top of the head.

However there are also some intermediate options like just designing some lighter rockers, or whatever.

Yeah the early 1grs are shimless buckets but they changed to rockers about 2010-11 when they went to dual vvti, the other problem with the 1gr is, even tho it has a almost identical head gasket, it has a 94mm bore so I would guess the valve spacing would be to big for 4gr.. 

What sort of lifter arrangement does the 1nz have? valve buckets or rockers? 

You think that's crappy.. 1gr is almost zephyr 6 spec.. 

Cunts..