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Posts posted by kws
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if the pin is hollow, I have heard of people threading them internally and using a screw screwed into the pin to reassemble (not on gauges, but something else I can't recall). I agree with Bryan that it looks like a pin that has the end flared out holding it together
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Yeah the door settings are nothing more than a ballpark for you to set the machine to and then alter the settings to suit yourself. Dont take them as gospel, sometimes they will be perfect, but often not.
When i find a really good setting for what I'm doing, i print it on a Dymo label and stick it to the top of my machine. I only have, and need, a couple of settings since all I'm doing is panel work (but my memory is shocking)
IMO, you are doing yourself a disservice by trying to learn all these different thicknesses and settings all at once. Just practice on what you're actually going to be using, and get the settings really well dialled in for that.
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5 hours ago, ThePog said:
The one I bought runs for 3 seconds on power on, the stops til it gets a signal from the coil. Should be perfect.
that sounds good, its the reason i didn't put mine on an oil pressure switch or the likes, as I want to prime the fuel system before starting as my car sits for a bit between starts.
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1 hour ago, locost_bryan said:
Actually, hard to know where they are actually made, but SuperFlex and SuperPro share part numbers for Morris and Hillman bushes, e.g. SuperFlex SF234-0669K and SuperPro SPF0669K for the Marina Tie Bar/Strut Bar bushes.
I was under the impression that SuperFlex in the Uk sources some bushes from SuperPro Aus, hence the P/N crossovers
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1 hour ago, ThePog said:
It could be this but the pump would still run all the time, it is reasonably loud. I saw something somewhere which was some sort of switching if/then logic gate.
Yeah my pump is wired to run all the time with key on, but is quiet enough I'm not bothered by it on my car. The inertia switch is my safety in case I put the car on its roof or something.
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1 hour ago, locost_bryan said:
I'll see if I can get some pics of the rubber profile, with any luck they might have used the same profile as other BL cars with butterfly windows - 2-door ADO16 1100 or Mini maybe?
Id appreciate that, and a measurement of the height of the "bulb" the glass squishes would help too.
Mk3 onwards Mini could be a good option too, as you say
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38 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said:
I am intrigued with the Superpro bushes. I have seen them on trade me for Hillmans and even asked questions and had no reply. They claim them as their own, but if you have to wait for them to come from the UK ?.
I am interested in the fit of them, because the ones I bought from the club (not super pro ) aren't that great. I was hoping Super pro would be better and better quality.
Nice to see some progress.
Ive used Superpro bushes a few times, usually ordered via Sparesbox in Aus, by getting the part numbers from the Superpro site. No complaints here. Depending on the style they can take a bit of work to fit, but I haven't had any that couldn't be fitted or were damaged on install.
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1 hour ago, locost_bryan said:
Luckily my seals are in good condition (or a previous owner has replaced them).
Are your windows fixed or opening?
Currently fixed, but I have a pair of opening to fit. Im thinking of using a similar pinch weld seal to the door seals
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And again, good too see progress
@locost_bryan are you replacing the rear QTR window seals? If so, what have you purchased for them? The seals from the donor car for my windows were stuffed, but were a weird rubber seal with an insert in it (which i didn't keep due to them being stuffed).
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looks 100x better than the shite modern black plates
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Thats amazing, I love it. About $1500 over my budget for a runabout though.
I particularly like how its a few shades of silver.
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I need something like that up here. All the cheap cars arent cheap anymore
Looks nice in blue, pretty cool car to learn in.
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Give these guys a bell, https://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/
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I find it particularly interesting that the Ora (brand) Good Cat (model) is now being marketed as the GWM (brand) Ora (model). I guess it goes to show people don't care for gimmicky names and brands they haven't heard of.
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The time has come, Lucas has been moved onto a new owner.
No, I know it's not the outcome most people wanted, but it's the best outcome for both Lucas and myself. He goes on to a new owner who can take the next steps and look after him, and I get to move on to a new and exciting project and get to stop stressing about having two British projects.
It's a shame I didn't get to do another Speeduino install, but that takes a lot of time investment, and I just don't have the motivation to spend that time on Lucas when I really need to be working on the Marina. I'll find something to install the Speeduino on, one day; maybe even the Marina.
The new owner is an ex Vitesse owner, who regrets selling his car a few years ago and wanted another SD1; so he knows what he's getting into, knows the cars well, and is committed to spending the time and money to look after Lucas.
As part of the sale I agreed to include the original 31A engine that came in bits with the car, but I also wanted to include the crank from the old carb 3.5 I removed from the car, as the 31A crank was rusty from being badly stored.
This meant I had to rapidly strip the engine. I didn't take too many photos because I was working quickly, and it was messy.
The heads come off easy enough. I question if the head bolts were torqued properly though as I could crack the head bolts with a 1/2" ratchet without much effort. The heads have had work before as they are very clean inside, and the engine had composite head gaskets. They're good heads, so I'll try to find a new owner for them before they go to scrap.
The block threads were a bit sad though. This one straight up pulled out of the block
and this one had previously had a stud inserted into it, and a wheel nut used to secure it
I stripped the whole engine down, and if I'm honest, there was no real smoking gun like I was hoping to see, to tell me what was causing the horrible clacking from the engine. Even the cam had all its lobes, and none of the lifters were dished. My only real suspicion is that the timing chain was so loose it was slapping around and making noise.
There was some ugly wear on the main bearings (likely from contaminants in the oil), but they weren't spun
Thankfully the crank was spotless, so that was removed and put into a box and loaded into the car
And the rest piled up under the bench, waiting for me to hurry up and do a scrap metal run
So with that, it was all loaded into the back of the Rover, and after a week and a bit of waiting for transporters to get their A into G, Lucas was loaded up onto the truck today
and off into the sunset he went
Good bye Lucas, it's been an adventure.
Now to spend some much-needed time on the Marina, and begin the process of obtaining the next toy.- 21
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9 hours ago, tortron said:
There are swift sports for about that price range in manual
This. ZC31S Swift Sport. Fun to drive, super reliable, cheap to run, can get in yellow with red seats to look cool. Really easy to drive too, so learning manual won't be an issue.
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On 20/07/2023 at 13:54, yoeddynz said:
These shocks dont look that shit hot
and wouldn't an adjustable panhard need a cert?
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what happened to all the cheap K11s? Did you guys ruin it and make them expensive?
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Also, its EK "Cross" not EK "Ex" *eye twitches*
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4 hours ago, Feetup said:
I’ve just imported a car through them, and 2 colleagues have cars on the way with them!
They were pretty good overall, and the car (a highly exciting Leaf) arrived sooner than expected and in better-than-anticipated condition.
Overall I’d recommend them, but keep an eye on costs / forex rate used etc
Thanks for the advice. I've been in touch with them since my post and they have been really good to deal with. Now that the Rover is sold, I'm just waiting for the right car to come up at the auctions and will go through them.
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R53 Minis aint so bad to work on. Heaps of awesome youtube videos of how to do almost anything on them
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31 minutes ago, NickJ said:
Deceased estate, 40y/o barnfind, Rego on hold, wof still valid for another 1200km.
Keen
time/km, whichever comes first.... obviously!
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On 28/07/2023 at 09:21, cubastreet said:Going way off topic but the current WOF system is ridiculous.
A 20 year old car gets a 12 month WOF. These are probably the cheapest, most neglected dailies around.
A 40 year old classic only gets a 6 month WOF. These cars likely get more love than 20 year old cars and do lower mileage. In the UK they don't need an MOT (WOF) at all. I haven't heard it's been a problem since this went into effect so assume there hasn't been a huge spike in cars falling apart on the motorways etc.
Not to mention brand new cars having a 3 year WOF, regardless of mileage. We've seen cars/utes still in their first WOF with bald tires and tens of thousands of ks.
WOF should be time/KM based, not just time.
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Looking for Austin A55 or A60 door striker
in General Car Chat
Posted
Probably wouldn't be too hard to get one machined up in NZ, if it were one of these
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/s-front-door-striker-austin-a60-van-160658999