shrike

Coolent temp sensor, ecu retarding timing until it comes up to operating temp, can always test the sensor and or just unplug to verify

If the temp is no good it wont know its warmed up

Hope you are going to investigate putting a sump/bash plate on?

Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location?

My first thought is low profile efi conversion,  but I know you wanted to stay carbed. 

Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb

How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine?

Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up?

Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more?

Should post a video of what it's doing in the base tune that @Studid for you.

Did it still have issues once you fixed the timing/sensors? 

When I had my r32 I once plugged the injector loom in backwards so it coughed and spluttered but didn't fire.

So looks like they don't clear the evo front brakes. Seems evos had 15" minimum size so I'll either need to get some 15 or 16 inch rims or put lancer brakes up front for a rwc.

Or just see if I can pass it with the 17x8 wheels

Got some factory 14s $400 with tyres

Hoping they clear the front evo brakes (they are gsr wheels) if not might have to get another set of wheels or get some lancer Front brakes

Ae111 rear calipers have a cable handbrake (are common calipers on corrollas so heaps of stock)

Could probably go to a 270mm if you needed also pretty sure you can get rhe discs undrilled/they should have enough meat to Redhill 

Hows the flywheel looking? Lots of hotspots?

Sorry if I missed it are you swapping box and motor from the crv complete or just taking the box?

2 hours ago, chris r said:

Hmm could do, $70 for a bracket is less effort and less risk of needing a cert. 

Yes it's a trans swap but technically all 'oem' parts so I'll plead ignorance 

Not sure if anyone would notice a electric column tbh it's all pretty hidden :p 

but yeah fair point, did you get a new wof so its 6/12months future you problem?

Or an opportunity to get an electric power steering column to modify and fit? (Pack the factory steering rack with grease). 

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Right thread

Sounds like a good mission, going to do another trip for a gearbox and axles etc? $250 is a good price, I probably would have just done basic maintance (waterpump etc) for peice of mind and sent it. (Dealt with a headgasket if it happened) but at least you'll know the condition and hopefully won't need to do much to it.

Surprised pick apart only has one lift, all the ones here have multiple. 

I've been running Diesal oil in my fake evo 4G63T and it's slowly cleaning out all the varnish/oil sludge crap etc not that I've run it much mind. Assuming your not going to strip/clean/hot tank everything 

1 hour ago, chris r said:

Collected a manual cluster tonight 

 

Lotta kms csn they be wound back?

4 hours ago, shizzl said:

All pistons are in a similar state of munched

Well that sucks, any options to go to a 2l bottom end? I remember my dad/step  mum had an awd mazda wagon with a 2l goldtop in it. (Think fhey also did a ford version as well) whst are the piston specs any alternate option's. 

Can you not use one of the other bottom ends? or mix and match pistons from the other motors?

Slightly better

Making up some brackets for the headlights which I'll weld a support to so I can have some additional mounting points for the front bumper. Using some steel I have laying around and they are way overkill. 

Redid the half rad front mounting, may have gone too thick with 3mm Alloy but it works ok, need to do some clearancing so the aftermarket radiator panel fits. Also may need to add an additional support for it somewhere on the passenger side.

Haven't bent and installed the alloy radiator ducting up yet either. The big one I wanted to do didn't work out how I wanted so need to remake it.

@Roman

More lightness inspiration, surprised no dimple dies used however 

Flipping the Cas 180 made it worse so put it back the way I had it. I double checked it with a timing light.

Sorted the exhaust and also give it an alignment tweak, till I can go get it one 

Need to get more fuel and a real alignment done, tempted to take it round the block but my partners out and I'd need to get a non roadworthy permit. 

Still alittle rowdy but not bad overall 

Not super happy with it, also clearance of the cat flange to the driveshaft is pretty tight so may cut that off rotare/grind it down and redo it

see how I feel tomorrow 

Slowly doing some dodgy welding as 0 fucks given as long as it seals 

15 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yeah it is. 
They're pretty shot.

 

Rebuild time then are they rebuild able, echo are spring on a perch and not on the actual shock yeah? New shock inserts a go? 

@Romanany option to cool the capacitor? congrats on some good times, keen to see how much you pickup from the exhaust :p

Assuming this was with the smaller/lighter rims etc?

What did you have to do to get the vvti pulley to work on the 4age? did it just bolt upto the cam? assuming you had to add an actuator etc to turn it on and off?

Very cool, any benefit in setting up exhaust side control

Beams blacktop (Altezza) have intake and exhaust right? did the 2jz setup make more sense/fit better then the beams setup?

Did some terrible welding onto the factory lancer muffler, (dodgy angles/pipe sizes etc) just one more pipe/pie cut to weld in.

Then I'll retune it again timing wise

Hopefully volume drops and I'll just need to finish the last of the rust work and maybe factory style rims with the stock suspension (and alignment) before I'll attempt a rwc check 

Few other things I'll slowly do once its regoed