shrike

Hows the wiring going?

Any option for a holiday over to Japan and find one yourself?

How much left in the list till shed skids?

Keen for start up/running videos and shed skids Are your J160 all stock internals? Or have you had some mods done (Circlip?) Any idea how it'll go with many revs? I'm assuming power and torque are within specs for it?

Im assuming youll be upgrading valve springs?

Next update, and you have all the bits to build a frankenmotor for when this one dies haha, all cheap pickapart bits or FB marketplace etc Do all the GR heads swap over between blocks? Wonder which ones flow the best/are the best to port hmmmm

Welder and paint make me the welder I ain't lol

Awesome, is there any logic to the placement of the speed holes? are they actually dimpled or just hole sawed out? Guessing the backing was for weight saving/aerodynamics?

Did the original chassis have the speed holes (dimples) in it? are you using similar materials or updated to modern specs?

No plans to convert to electric power steering? Ie from a newer corolla, echo , vitz, prius or GT86/BRZ?

I stand corrected good to know there is an option but gosh your right it's not a cheap exercise

Don't DI engines tend to have carbon build up issues on the valves? Also I'm not sure of an aftermarket ecu that runs direct injection but I could be wrong They also run alot higher fuel pressure (mechanical fuel pump at the rail?) From what I've seen DI and Port gives best of both worlds if you can run it properly Guess it's another failure point however

Why not get rid of clutch fork and go to a concentric clutch release bearing?

Didn't @chris r get some jets from Aliexpress or am I thinking of someone else?

I've got Unimig gear, havent had an issue but I don't use it that often https://unimig.com.au/product-category/equipment/tig-welders/?pa_welding-processes[]=ac-dc-hf-tig Not sure if they sell it in NZ though

Assuming your going to tig up the hole? I have the feeling its not going to be a fun job

2zz-ge into an echo 122kw and 162nm atw, @Romanwhat was your final dyno number? https://www.facebook.com/100075883510301/posts/288421180363997/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Was doing some reading (I'm in the airport waiting to board) Apparently solid lifter conversions would allow circa 500rpm more (if the hydraulic lifters have issue) but would reduce cam duration so would need lager cams to compensate. And fully agree on weight reduction helping to reduce mass/friction at higher RPM Been interesting reading about if certain engine parts will be able to lubricate correctly at the rpm your aiming for. Are you planning on opening up the bottom end and doing any mods or is the plan to just run it stock and see what happens?

Any valvetrain conversion options if it's the limiting factor?

Do you need to have the oil distribution block on the sump to be that size? Could you make it lager off to one side and tap for fittings off to the side instead of have it out the front? Or do you need the lines to be from the front?

Can't claim its a factory hole then? like the one to the left? anyone got a dimple die you could use to make it look more factory?

Whats the specs compared to the b20?

How easy/cheap is it to get spare heads for these? Any cheap dead motors around that you can play with first?

Center bore hub rings are pretty easy to get whats the size you need?

@Romanits the circlip mod as a base line 500nm or around 400hp, shotpeening is also involved https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/ Neat do it over here but im sure someone in nz would