shrike

I wonder how much hp the exhaust will get you. 

Extra 20hp?

@Romanwhats the trap speed your getting? are the rear wheels the lightest/smallest option? Whats the max speed space savers are rated at and are they a lighter option

@Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes

Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common

I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) 

Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time

Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap

Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh

Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p

Still got sound deadening?

So exhaust and a 50 wetshot of Nitrous and aim for a 12.9?

3 hours ago, Stu said:

*cough* NOS *cough*

Would have to be a wet shot into the throttle body's right? 50 shot to start and then move up? 

Any thoughts on tweaking the suspension some more?

Also massive congratulations impressive result, thats with full street trim as well yeah? can always lose some more weight

Interesting thread on 4-1 vs 4-2-1 obviously on a yaris rather then an echo but I suspect youll have similar space constants.

Also depends if your going to run a cat as well

https://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6941

https://www.andysautosport.com/products/dc_sports__SHC4401.html

Great results on the dyno run

16 hours ago, Muncie said:

So it's single scroll, 2.5" v band mount, was curious if it would be better to run dual gates or not eg one for each bank of the v6.

One massive gate would make plumbing far easier. 

Aiming to start at 14-15 psi with any luck that'll be pretty peppy the block will take that no problem. 

Typically single scroll you just run one and as close to the turbo as possible, twin scroll you generally want to run one per scroll. (with twin scroll you can get away with one per pipe if youve merged pipes before hand)

Assuming your going to do a 3-1 for each bank and then merge two pipes into the vband flange? (if so youll need to do the gate so it has gas from both pipes able to flow into it.

There is a balance between flow and velocity ideally you want more gas velocity to help spool the turbo and then good flow out of the turbo, but you don't want it too restrictive as that can cause back pressure etc

Alternatively I am still a fan of putting the gate on the turbine housing but it can be a pain for packaging (and welding cast isn't fun) 

Main thing with any wastegate is you want the exhaust to be able to easily flow through it when its open and divert away from the turbo, can have the biggest gate in the world but if doesn't have a good flow of gas going to it then its not that effective.

The chinese wastegates can be ok if you dissemble them and do QC/ reassemble them correctly, know a few people who have replaced diaphragms etc with genuine options as well.

Obviously if your happy to spend the coin genuine is the way to go

Cool so 1bar spring in the gate it is then :p

Hope that makes sense, and I am no expert but just things ive picked up over time

Single or dual scroll? 

Id also say a 60mm of single but would probably get away with dual 38mm if running dual 

You can also weld the flange direct to the exhaust housing if you need too

Also typical rule of thumb is you can run double the spring pressure via a controller. 

Ie 5psi spring can run 10psi etc

Tipping you'll need about 1bar minimum to hit 400hp (could be wrong)

Actually, what's your rough EGT and what's the highest temp 3D printer filament you can do :p 

3D printed an exhaust?

So rather then finish the exhaust I decided I needed more engines.

Went to pick a part and grabbed this 4G64 out of a mitsubishi nimbus was a 50/50 on if it was a 6 or 7 bolt, was hoping it was a 6 but based on the mounts etc was sure it would be a 7

And 7 bolt confirmed once the Torque converter is removed, which matches all my other motors that are 7 bolt. Will compare this block to my 4G69 Block and see if I can use the 4G69, can use the crank rods etc either way.

Trying to sort a time to pick up a Hyundai G4CR (4G61) DOHC motor from FB marketplace for $500, its a 6 bolt has no balance shafts from factory and a 75mm crank.

I just want the head off it as a spare but was considering silly things if the 4G64 was a 6 bolt (like a long rod, large piston but small stroke build) for lots of revs and boost.

Still thinking ill keep under 450nm, and I should really finish the exhaust so I can get it done etc

Also considering rewiring the engine bay, dash loom and build a new "factory" ecu harness (will add an extra connector (later model 4G63) and allow it to run things like DBW etc) for when I got to a different ecu

On 22/05/2021 at 13:31, Bearded Baldy said:

Have been delaying going into the garage as i have alot of gear to go through and clean out. Decided this morning to start stripping down the turbo motor i got for the ute last year.

Was told it just needed a set of bearings. That was bullshit.

Crank is shot, 2 out of 4 rods are out of shape. Called it a day and have started looking for bits.

Anyone have a 7bolt 4g63 crank and set of rods lying around? I'm not flexible or pretty but willing to negotiate.

If you are after a small displacement bump the cranks and rods from the 4g69 motors will fit, rods are a little small from the 4g69 but are fine for modest power goals and are from memory lighter then the factory evo/turbo rods

However should be pretty easy to get at most wreckers as they are in lancers and outbacks

Quick one

Got a factory lancer sedan muffler mounted and changed the front pipe, redid the cat and all the exhaust/mounts.

Just need to cut the rear flange off and rotate it down. Add a downturn and an angle to the rear muffler output and the it should be done

Not super happy with the flange on the downpipe clearance to the drive shaft but if it's an issue I'll grind it down.

With a quieter exhaust I'll be more willing to reset the timing again. Plus have another go at sorting the bliss/idle etc

7 hours ago, Roman said:

Nah it will be fine*

 

*until it isnt 

9k is probably manageable (just?) Is it still making power and not peaking at 8500? ( next up dyno chart showing it off a cliff at 8600 )

What do you think the weak link will be next?

Rod bolts? 

Oil system keeping up and bearings letting go? 

Oil pump failure 

Clutch? 

10k I'm not so sure If serious lol

Liked your porting comment assuming it does widen the curve and increase midrange sounds good. Part of me thinks yes the cfm required will increase at lower revs due to less intake restrictions but the exhaust will still limit it. Not sure how much you'll pick up or how much wider to start.

Hoping your going to fully balance the bottom end including the new stronger clutch to allow for the increased revs?

The header/exhaust size discussion I always find interesting and ill admit I am not an expert on it

Obviously got to find the balance between torque (via maintaining gas velocity) and flow for the upper RPM (6500+)

If it was me I would probably look at getting the header piping as close to the exhaust port size as possible, maybe do a 4 into 1 or a 4 into 2 and then 2.5" to the back.

Maybe go 3" if you chuck in some restriction or plan to go turbo later :p

@kpr exhaust design he did for the 4age may work well here as well?

Do you have to run cats in NZ atm?

Wondering how much more gains you will notice if the exhaust is the limiting factor 

5 hours ago, sheepers said:

yea i never have in the past but im about to start.

im fucked if i know why that hose let go. when i pulled it off the car and looked at what had happened the hose was like the next size up?

like it just slid on and off the fitting like it wasn't supposed to be for that size fitting?

it was the fucking hose that had been there for years and all of a sudden it grew by like 3mm in dia.

fucked if i know? i did arsehole any other of the same type of hose that i had on the car and replace it. 

Guessing it was oil rated hose? ive seen hose swell before due to not being used with the right liquids etc

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe

Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

21 hours ago, chris r said:

Yeah exactly the same as the CRV stuff, Gearbox/engine are the same too and share the same mounts so that makes stuff less difficult to get. The rear trailing arms are apparently different (as are wheel bearings after trawling the catalogues)

So B16/18 VTEC head/intake swap on the cards? (with ECU to suit)

On 22/10/2021 at 09:48, chris r said:

Can confirm diff is presen and correct and does diff things 

https://i.imgur.com/CJ5GDiz.mp4

Be amazed by the powah 

 

I'm pleasantly surprised at how clean it is. Rocker cover and cam seal are leaking but easy fix 

Same as the CRV drivetrain?

But did you let the fridge settle before you turned it on? and waiting on rear diff pics to conform AWDness

So, your options are to lose weight or add more power right ?? :p

1 hour ago, cold_snoot said:

Dry ice is SO COOL. 

Fun side story: I ordered the first box of dry ice last week, it took a while to arrive and after 3 nights I called Mainfreight and they were like "yeah nah that'll be an empty box"

Second box came with maybe 5 kg of dry ice left in it. Which was just enough to do the Starion. I guess if you want dry ice shipped from out of town, I'd recommend just going on a roadie to pick it up yourself.

I would highly recommend not getting it shipped unless its in a freezer truck :s

1 hour ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

So also during lockdown I looked at growing some hops. Just as a hobby (not sure the climate is right here) but will be nice to throw a few home-grown leaves into a brew if I get any flowers. Best spot was a bit of unused wasteground beside my shed, north facing and gets all day sun, but currently a dump for old bricks, waste oil, weeds and roadsigns...

Then read they don't like wet soil, and looked at the swamp I was intending to use after a day's rain... 
 

Be interesting to see how they go... 

Yeah they don't like getting too damp, have had a few rhizomes rot away, also you may need alittle more space then that as they tend to spread out but see how you go

I have 3 with shoots atm, and 10 that haven't done anything yet. Not a very good gardener myself however and my dog likes to sleep on them :s