Mattt

That's my exact theory. See the a340h is the auto used behind the v6 surf etc as you say and the r150f and r151f is the manual equivalent and the transfer cases swap over between the auto and the manual so I think it should bolt up I'm just hoping the spline etc is the same. But like I say about welding the center up if I can then I'm fine with that but if I can get the electronic side working with the link ecu then even better. Shit I was considering using the surf transfer case for 2wd or 4wd options but they're huge and I'd have to modify the driveshafts flanges etc not forgetting the fact that the car is going to be LOW so the higher up that sits the better it'll be.

I haven't got the stuff yet (still sitting at wreckers waiting for payment) but when I get it I'll know more. I suspect the box will bolt up to the transfer case but the internals are some clutched setup. Admittedly I'm a little out of my depth when it comes the that side of things so I'm not sure if you can weld it?

The transfer case internals or the case to the box?

SOME of the altezza GITA station wagons were 4wd. The only thing im really worried about is making the transfer case fit the manual boax and that the transfer box has an electronically controlled constantly varying system which MAY be controllable by a link ecu according to their technician or i can unplug the whole thing and hope it has a default lock out.

yeah i really dont feel like going much over 450hp. all though im happy to spend the money on this build the idea is more about what i can achieve as a fabricator for little money. Also i dont want to push the limits of the 4wd drivetrain and although its a 30/70 split the front diff is tiny and i suspect after about 500hp things will go boom. As will the vvti bottom end. Basically think of the mustang ken block built, then take off about 150k from the budget Glad you guys aprove though. was always thinking the genral consensus from people would be why? But i think it'll make a really cool project and to be fair the difference between running the 4wd and not is minimal since i was already fabbing up the chassis for altezza front crossmembers etc.

Well long time no see guys. After taking a couple of years to learn the guitar properly ive decided i can get back into the crown project. But i had changed my mind a bit in the meantime. I purchased and Altezza comlete rear subframe to convert the car to IRS and things have spiraled majorly out of control now. (as they always do) I went to the wrekcers to have a chat about getting a beams 3sge and 6 speed instead. I thought the weight being less and further back would help the handling. While i was there the topic came up that he had wrecked a 4wd altezza. thought nothing of it, went home to t think about the 3sge. I had previously made plans that i was also going to fit the fron subrframe and suspension from an altezza, that way i could have a real power steering rack and decent suspension. good handling etc. then i started thinking about the 4wd he wrecked and did some research. well now i have a COMLETE 4wd 2JZGE package waiting for collection. That means the front subframe, engine, trans, driveshafts, ecu, loom, suspension etc etc. The plan is: Modify chassis heavily to accept front and rear subframes and suspension from altezza Bolt parts up Replace the auto box with an R150f long shaft manual gearbox 1jz flywheel and clutch setup altezza transfer case lengthen driveshaft (suspect 20mm as thats the wheel base difference) Use Link ECU Standalone Big single turbo, modify fuel system with return line new fuel tank etc Replace factory dash with custom made unit utilising factory altezza instrument cluster aim for around 450hp replace front seats with something that hugs! Cert Drive that bitch Now i know in theory thats all fairly straight foward but i am also well aware of the impending issues (mostly with wiring tbh) At the end of this i should have the only MS65 4WD 450hp crown in the world Why 4wd you may say, well 1: because i can, 2: Because it's different, 3: I love corners. some photos of what im keeping of the chassis

i'm going to go with the custom arms and chassis chop. that way i'll get the experience of building my own arms, fucking it up, rebuilding my front arms, probably fucking it up again and finally getting it bang on

Once I've done some more measurements I can decide if I'll be making new arms or modify the factory ones. I'd love to just buy a 4K mustang front end and weld it on but I don't have the money for that and I wouldn't learn anything from it. I kinda like the idea of finding something at a wreckers that may work and making it fit. It might not be the perfect way and it may not be unique but if I can do it then it will be a great learning curve. Thanks for the help I feel a bit more comfortable in moving forward with it now.

Not keen on bags. Not for any real reason except I just wanna try something a bit different.

That's the plan man. Most of what I'm doing is to learn rather than to get massive results. I'll check out some books and do the research but so far it seems like there's nothing really stopping it from working so that was the main point. Watch this space.......

No holden junk either thanks. Not race car. Just a good handling road car that I may do the odd classic car event in. I'm not looking to change the height all the time. Its just that having the coilovers for the rear anyway I thought if I could get the fronts to work too would allow me to fine tune the cars height easily and effectively and probably help get the ride right.

1: I'd die before sticking a Ford v8 in my car 2: ideally this should be a cheap but fabrication focused project. Time spent is fine. Money spent is not

I like the book idea. I know there's a layman's guide type thing to nz cert rules etc but is there something you would suggest?

Yeah removing the body and all that jazz. It's gonna be a nightmare but fairly confident in being able to achieve it. I was considering a worst case of fabricating new arms but I'd rather not if I can avoid it. I had considered what you suggested Spence and that may be a good way to do it as well but I'lol measure the distance from the pivot point to make sure it comes close to the altezza.

Ok so i'll try and explain this as well as i can As some of you know i have an ms65 crown sedan i'm currently doing an engine conversion on. What you won't know is that i have also just purchased an entire altezza rear end consisting of the subframe, brakes, LSD, arms etc etc so i'm going to mount that in the rear of the crown to run independant rear suspension. The wreckers i was at had an altezza up on the hoist which had Tein adjusties in it as well and the guy did me an ultra sharp deal on them as i wanted to run the rears to make it a bit easier to get ride heights correct etc. However now i want to see if theres a way to make the front coil overs work from the altezza in the front of the crown. So if any suspension gurus can chime in here would be great. I'm thinking about basically removing the old shock and spring and making up a bracket to weld to the lower arm and a bracket to weld to the chassis and mount the coil over however i'm interested to know if because of the way the factory spring sits in between the arms this will mess up geometry or the functionality of it? I mean in my immediate mind i think the way i've described should be fine but i have a bad feeling that i'm missing something here..... does this make sense? essentially what i want to do is what sheepers did with his crown but instead of running bags in the arm and an external shock i just want to run an external coilover shock and spring. Now although i'm not too clued up on the specifics of suspension (hence the question here) i am a qualified fabricator so if it seems possible to those in the know then i will get the advice i need from the certifier etc to make sure it's all done properly etc. cheers in advance. Basic idea of what altezza coilovers look like: sheepers set up:

man what the fuck is wrong with these people? hope they got the plate number etc.

when i drove past i looked at it and it still looked like such an amazing car. it's a real shame it got damaged. It was really well shunted in the back. id be surprised if the other panels wern't quite badly out of shape from it as well. straight away i thought of oldnathans old one and when i got home looked it up and was horrified to see his one had already been written off!

Anyone on here the owner or know the owner of the brown pristine RX30 on longchamps that crashed this morning? Looks like someone decided to go drifting around the corner and ended up rear ending a power poll. What a waste of a beautiful car! I hope it wasn't the lexus powered one on here that got sold off awhile ago. I would be pretty dissapointed if i had built a car that nice, sold it and someone stacked it!

I have a floor / couch if you need. In wainui though although only 20 mins to ferry terminal.

I'd replace the points and condensor, check for vacuum leaks and make sure the pcv valve isn't blocked. Also check that the plugs and leads are sweet. It's had a recon on the carby so it shouldn't be an issue. Also check the condition of the earth to the engine. They can cause mega issues if they're toast.

Keen to ride

So the oil pan of unbelievable time consumption is finally finished. And holy shit i actually think it came out really well. and then on wednesday i spent some time doing a few things and then BAM - all the hard work has proved to have a point. which is epic. The engine mounts on the engine side were ony supposed to be mock ups. i'm undecided yet on whether to just strip the paint of and tidy up the welds a little. Will probably get new ones lasered up nicely at work and tig them up properly i think. but for now the engine fits perfectly. A shame i dont have a flywheel or clutch at the moment but the time will come. Plenty to do in the mean time for preperation. Happy as hell with where the wiring goes through the firewall. Looks really legit i think. The correct oil filter had about 10mm clearance to the engine mount which wasnt enough to make me comfortable. This photo doesn't show it well but thanks to the legend that is joel at repco lower hutt we matched up a filter that is identical except a bit bigger in diameter and a bit shorter. So now i have about 15-20mm clearance which should be plenty. Chucked the exhaust manifolds on and ground down the flange a bit on the rear collector point as it was a bit close to the steering box. bit better now. And today i visited pick a part and got a fuel pump and sender unit from a toyota curren. Took it home and started to make it fit. Not a huge job but a bit time consuming. I got pulled off it when a mate turned up with a stuffed cv joint and then after sorting that i opened a fresh bottle of canadian club and called it a day. the random bits of crap sitting on the top of the tane were floating around in it. I'm still abit confused about what they are or why they're in my tank....... Will carry on tomorrow and if i can be bothered will post up the finished result providing i have enough shielding gas left. Damn it i forgot im almost out.

Hey guys have a room for rent in the village. 3 others including homeowners, $140 Including all expenses other than food. 18-25years preferred. Must be fine with dogs and 2 weeks bond 1 week in advance. Pm me and we will go from there. Thanks.

Will be there and in something oldschool. Well just.

ok so it's been a long ass time since i updated this and things have been happening although i noticed a few of the pics that matter haven't been taken so i'll post up what ive got. Basic photo bomb i guess: First time cutting rust out and making a new panel so i was pretty happy with the result. The plasma cutter makes life a shit load easier. I'm still finishing off the sump at the moment as i had to modify it a little more to accomodate the ball joint nuts on the steering arms but thats all sorted. The engine mounts were cleaned up so they're smooth and i'm now saving up to get a power steering box. once that's fitted i'll chuck the engine in and make up the exhaust manifold, get the drive shaft lengthened and start on the fuel system and wiring. I've decided on a colour and wheels. I'm going to paint the car mazda 6 pearl white and run 15x7 and 15x10 prostars like sheepers has however i will be painting the centers on them candy red. Fun times ahead. I'll try keep this updated but i'm better at doing work than i am updating the thread.