Ja1lb8

Got a good days work in on my chassis today so heaps of little bits and pieces finished. Probably another solid days work and itl be ready to go to the sand blasters and get some paint on it A while back someone commented that it looked real heavy with all that bracing in it, Since I had some load cells laying around and the readout was charged up (used for wieghing cows) I thought id chuck them under my chassis just out of interest, came in at 140kgs which I didnt think was to badat all. Will get maybe another 10kgs of bits and pieces welded to by the time its finished I almost epect the weight to double by the time i add the suspension, brakes and wheels tho

In hindsight I should of just whacked a couple of singles on there and not had to battle with this plumbing nightmare but Im already balls deep so I best see it through now

Have spent the last couple of weeks working on the exhaust and finishing off bits on the chassis Removed the body shell and set to work on the drivers side exhaust , Had to get it to clear the steering shafts and fit in between the chassis rails, Just waiting on some v band clamps to show up so I can finish weld it, otherwise all looks good Next I moved onto the passengers side , had to modify the manifold so it faced the other way, easier said then done but its in there now, 3rd time lucky and appears to clear everything, Hoping the motor doesnt rock to much and make the exhaust hit the chassis Like the other side im going to have to put heat shields around everything to try and stop things melting, starter engine mount etc

Yea man, worked a treat

So been fitting the rest of the steering shafts and universals First problem I struck was needing a spline on the input shaft of the rack and pinion Thought about it for a while and ended up making up a dividing plate out of an old torana disk brake and welding it to the spindle of my lathe, worked out way better then I thought it would and actually cut a pretty decent spline Then had a few goes at different mounting positions for the support bearing , main problem being clearance around the exhaust Its about as good as I can get it now but well have run heat sheilds around the centre ujoint and hope it doesnt boil all the grease out of it and wreck it Well finish up all the bracing for the support bearing when the body comes off and engine out next

Package arrived today with steering components in it so thought I best mount the column and fingers crossed itl all work The U joints and shaft appear to be pretty good quality but the rod ends pretty shit and well probably end up getting another one Got this tilt column for cheap off trademe, was told its out of some old chev , Im thinking late 60s early 70s but not really sure Made the top mount and will pretty it up a bit by making some sort of cover that merges into the bottom of the gauge cluster Next Im going to mount the bottom of the column and cut a hole in the firewall, hope i measured it all up properly and itl clear all the turbo piping and exhaust Note crappy steering wheel is just so I could mock it up and make sure I was happy with where it sat

Have fitted the gauge cluster, still need to weld in some mounting tabs for the screws and fill in around the bottom of the v part of the chrome, going to incorporate it into the steering column mount somehow Not sure what to do with rest of the dash tho, might just fill in all the holes although some of that old chrome stuff that came on it does look pretty cool

just cause you got me worried I thought I best actually put a 17 on a see what it looks like instead of just measuring it and hoping for the best should be all good

Thanks Thomas , You have any luck with those tarpolins?

kinda like this one No worries I doubt myself half the time, not really sure itl work but time will tell

Have some faith, That pic does give a bit of a scewed perspective mind you, the bottom of the shock sits 50mm off the ground with a 17" rim ,with a tyre on there its easily over 100mm of ground clearance Well make the bottom A arm just as i made the top one except using bushes instead of rod ends and slightly different mounting of the ball joint to give more clearance

Been spending a bit of time on this lately , tryna figure out where the steering columns guna go/clearance around exhaust ,turbo,engine mounts etc, got a chevy tilt column on its way that I got cheap off tard me Fitted the accelerator pedal Got side tracked and started working on the front suspension again First took the bottom arm off and fitted some brackets to hold my airbags,( well be making new tube A arms eventually) Lifted it up till the arms were where I want them at ride height and then fitted a piece of steel tube to simulate the shock/springs at ride height Then made up the top brackets out of cardboard cut them out of 3mm plate and tacked them on well box them later Boned out Was searching the interweb looking at different gauge clusters for my dash wanting to do something different Quite liked the look of 55,56,57 chev truck gauges and found a few on ebay US , mentioned this in passing to my dad and he sez hang on, ask your brother and it turns out he has a spare one sitting in the boot of his car as you do, he was travelling through last night so he dropped it off on his way Not sure whether to run it above the steering wheel or in the middle of the dash

Edit, sorry was referring to the 90degree setup where on a lhd car the booster and m/c point to the right , on a rhd car this would be hanging out the side of the car somewhere

Hey guys Spent hours today tryna nut out where to put my brake pedal and steering column and decided the brake assembly has to be mounted under the dash either in a 180degree or 90degree configuration Anyone out there done this before?, have been looking at pics on the net, I think most suitable is the kugel brand 180degree pedal setup but opposite to suite a right hand drive car as there made for the us market I want to get this right first time as ive never really been happy with previous brake setups on cars ive had eg too much leverage making the brakes too easy/no feeling or front rear bias all over the show Using factory toyota century 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear Similar to lexus v8 setup Factory pedal ratio is approx 3.2:1 with a 9"vacuum booster and 1"master cylinder It also used to incorporate an abs unit, Im unsure if that altered the front and rear bias at all I need a longer pedal then factory because of the layout of the car,ie getting it all up under the dash, and I think making it with a 6-7:1 ratio should achieve this Unsure whether to run unboosted brakes because of the extra leverage , also running two seperate master cylinders with a balance bar becomes an option then. This would be ideal to adjust front and rear bias as ill probably be running different diametre wheels front and rear and want approximately a 60:40 brake bias I welcome anybodies thoughts/experience on this subject

sounds like some good progress, cant wait for some more pics of it all primered up

Finished off the back section of the floor, unfortunatly it had to have those sharp bends in it to fit the contour of the chassis and i couldnt come up with a different way to do it without cutting up the chassis which i definatley didnt want to do The seat sits directly over the top where the round part meets the square part so it should hide it I hope and carpet well do the rest Still gotta put some more bracing on the underside and drill and fit a few more brackets where it mounts to the chassis Planning on using this bench seat which im told is out of 1939 chev coupe, has a split folding back which lets the rear seat passangers get in and out, gunna take much modifying to get it to fit and work over the tunnel tho

Or you could just buy an e type jag and put a toyota badge on it

Thanks for the kind words Yea I fucked about with it for ages to get it right

Made up the floor section that goes over the bell housing Managed to put in the compound curves without cutting or welding it using a shrinker/stretcher machine Worked better then i thought it would Made up a blank using cardboard then copied it onto some panel steel and came up with this Test fit, A bit more massaging and it fit not to bad Punched holes right around it for spot welding Welded in place, well take a few hours of grinding to clean up all the welds bit that can wait till later

Just gunna run all the factory actuators and wastegates from the 2jz which well be pushing the limits but should be alright, Its cause the compressions up around 11:1 might even be 11.5:1 cant remember and the rods arent all that big either

Probably looks a but like this one aye Good mate of brothers , names simon pulled out the toyota floor shifter last night for a look and not keen at all , column it is! Accelerator pedal on the other hand looks like its made for the job, toying up whether to use the fly by wire throttles which would mean fitting the all the rest of the accelerator sensor linkage thing, Gunna use a link which says it well support fly by wire but would pay to ring up and ask to make sure

Been working on the floor, got the front part of the tunnel in and the floorpan area where the driver and passanger put there feet Tipped the body shell over on its side and welded some bracing underneith, no photos but well get some next time i turn it over again to do the rear half of the floor Next up is to make the part that covers the bellhousing , Also working on fitting the accelerator , shifter and brake pedal, not sure whether to run some sort of under dash brake booster setup or under the floor, under the floor would be preferable but im a bit squeezed for space there with the exhaust, Also wondering bout fitting some kind of column change cable operated shifter to free up room on the floor

Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726 Wasnt really happy with the swage lines on the firewall so cut the top section off and made a new one, came out much better Then seam welded it in and spotted it from the inside Next welded in the recessed part off the old firewall Next job will be to put some bacing in under the floor and build the tunnel and the front floor section

Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726 Removed the body from the chassis to make it easier to do some of the panel work and also finish off the suspension and crossmembers Well eventually roll the body over on its side to finish off underneith First up roughly cut the bottom off the back of the car so I could test fit the replacement panel up to see where to do the final cuts Tacked it all on, got this neat little air tool thing that I used to punch holes along the joins for spot welding Did all the spot welding with a mig and and finished off the other joins with a Tig , Fit and finish came up pretty good so shouldndt have to use much bog if any, just a good coat of primer filler