spiderwebfx

Tell me, is this Mark Murphy's old one? Used to be registered as HUR64 / DEVLZ ?  If so, it's actually another one I'm trying to find info on that I forgot to put on the list above.

I'm trying to track down all of the S12 Silvia/Gazelles/200SX's that are currently in New Zealand.  So far I've learned of about 35 all up, but am missing some information on them.  Does anyone know of the whereabouts of any of the cars attached, or do you know of one that I probably haven't found yet.

I'm finding them out of interests sake, but also to try and connect all current owners together for meet-ups and shit.  (I've just got a spreadsheet with all the information on them.

FZE460 - unable to find any information
ME5265 - unable to find any information
MM4317 - last seen for sale Oct 2015 by a guy called Edan Gabites
PC4323 - sold in Oct 2018 by Andrew Watson - looking for new owner
SK6703 - last seen for sale July 2017 by Kiley Madsen.
PD1352 - unable to find any information

Any information or connections is appreciated.

Some information if your curious

35 S12's known about in NZ (currently)
4 are confirmed road legal
8 RSX's (only 2 road legal)
1 features a supercharged 1UZ
2 SR20DET swapped
2 SR20DE swapped
1 2JZGE swapped
Spread from Dunedin right up to Whangarei.

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

I need to make some wheel location rings. What materials are acceptable.

 

The diameter on the hub is too small for the wheel spacers and for the wheel center hole.

Most ones supplied by the retailers selling aftermarket wheels are plastic.  Some are alloy but very few.

Why not try ringing a local wheel shop with the ID of the wheels, ID of the spacers, and the OD's of the spigots, and see if you can just buy them.  They're normally only $7-$8 each anyway.
If you don't feel like calling, PM me your measurements and I can ring and ask tomorrow for you

Tyres should be fitted from the front side of that rim.  It's typical of a cheaper wheel to have the well so far from the face, but obviously it's deeper at that end to cater for it.  (Not saying it is a cheap wheel, but the likes of Advanti do this on almost all their rims.

JWL used to mean something, (it still does in most cases) but then Chinese copies happened, and now they seem to be on almost every wheel anyway.


In terms of quality, I wouldn't say that rim is chinese.  If you like at the back in the centre, it's formed around the stud holes.  All chinese stuff I've seen has a round mounting face as it's cheaper and easier to do.  I'd be looking at what @kyteler said and it's possibly from Performance Wheels Australia

Done, a few hours of messing around, but it now works. I have an Auto Meter tacho internals on the back of my S12 cluster.  I'll get the tuner to fine tune it tomorrow while it's getting it's tune done.  Cheers for the help.

Yeah, I thought about using a S14 one or something, but I can't find anything locally I can grab today

Yep, very similar to that.  I may of just found an Auto Meter Auto Gage series one. So will hopefully go pick up shortly.

9 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Find a tacho that does work with the link(most should) and retro fit it into the instrument cluster and put your faceplate on it.

That's what I did when I could not find a PWM speedo within my budget of no-money. I just carved out the plastic speedo housing, mounted tacho internals in the hole and screwed the speedo faceplate on it. The tuner calibrated it on the link when it was on the dyno. Only downside for me is no odometer.

Ideally you would have a spare instrument cluster in case you made a mess of things. 

I have thought about doing that.  Only problem is I haven't been able to find an rpm gauge i can try it with

Unfortunately the above method didn't work.  Any other suggestions?

Howdy OS'ers

Hoping some of you here may be able to help me with something.  I've put a Link ECU into the S12, and am trying to figure out how to get the tacho to work.

S12 Silvia, originally CA20E, now has S14 SR20DET and Link Monsoon ecu.

I was having a read through this thread; 

But tbh, I don't really understand it.

So the Link has a 12v output.

I'm not exactly sure on the S12 tacho input signal type, but attached is a photo of the circuit board (R9 is the first resistor on the tacho signal wire).  However, I would prefer to do it with the relay option as I don't want to risk damaging the board.

I used to have it driven off the S14 coils by using four diodes (1N4004) on each signal wire (from the ignitor chip) into one, then straight into the tacho.  This worked, but my tuner has said he'd prefer not to have anything that can interfere with signal on the coilpacks, and I've also converted to S15 coilpacks if that matters.

If it's relevant, the larger of the resistors with writing is 82ohm 5% 2w (R1) and the smaller (R2) is 43ohm J 1w. (Not sure what J means)

2 hours ago, ajg193 said:

I saw someone used a standard yellow paint pen on tyres and it worked fine

Pretty much all these pens are.  Go to Bunnings and buy paint pens in whatever colors you want. Although $2.50 for 2 pens is cheap.

175/80R13 is the closest in height to the original size.

If you are in the process of buying tyres.  Make sure you are buying 175/80R13 car tyres. The 175R13 is commercial, and will be hard as a rock.

@Mr Vapour, that sounds like the sort of thing I'm after.  I'll flick you a PM now.

Thanks @tortron I'll give the oven cleaner a go first, if no dice, I'll go with brake fluid.

Na, nothing like that.  The existing paint is pretty rough / flaky, I've got most of the flaking paint off but I'm hesitant to paint over whats left in case it peels later on.

I got a plastic mud flap kit in from Japan for my S12. They have had a real shoddy paint job on them.  Whats the best way to remove the paint and start again?

Can I use paint stripper, etch prime, then paint, or will the stripper damage the plastic?  They're OEM ones from the 80's.

Will a bead blaster work, or is that two aggressive?

I'll post a photo up soon if that will help.

Cheers,

Chris

Edit// just read the technical data for CRC strip-off and it says not recommended for plastics...

The T1R's are good for handling, but they are a soft compound so mileage isn't huge.

Yeah, T1R is a Proxes.  They have been mostly replaced by the T1S; which is asymmetric.

Good directional tyres will be hard, most mid-range and premium brands have moved to asymmetric.

FK452 has been discontinued and no stock left in NZ.

I've looked at Michelin, Falken, Yokohama, Goodyear, Dunlop, Hankook, Maxxis, Continental, Pirelli, Nankang but they have no options in one size or are asymmetric one.

I just phoned Toyo and they have one set of T1R's left.  They are discontinued in those sizes, so once they're gone, they're gone.  They're also on a clearance special because of it. (I've sent you a PM regarding this in case you're interested)

I can't check Bridgestone, they don't like us.

4.5" to 5" is standard for 165 wide tyres.  Can put 185's on without a problem though.

Answers to questions;

1. Yes - the wider tyres will drive much nicer than the 165's.  + you have way more options available to you.

2. Assymetric tyres are pretty much the way of the future with tyres anyway.  Some brands are coming up with split compounds, and they can fine tune parts of the tyre for different thing. (Such as outer shoulder firmer/more solid for cornering, but inside half the tyre more for everyday comfort sort of thing)

3. Na, you can get a rough idea on it's water dispersion capabilities but thats it.

I'd recommend going to the 185/70R13.  As far as options go, #1 recommendation would be a Michelin Energy XM2, but they're priced pretty high for a 13" tyre (retail $150+gst).  Well worth it though.

Otherwise, Yokohama AE01, or Toyo NanoEnergy3.

Also, speedo difference will be less than 1%

Yup, that's them.  As far as I can tell, they're the same as whats used in the D21 Terranos and 180SX's that had manual sunroofs.

Looks like 91246 may of been superseded by 73873-15F05. 

I've also found them at quite a few places now, even FRSport has them.  But they want over $1000 USD  freight.  I had a laugh at that.

If it's not a hassle then I'd appreciate that.  I'm going in to see Nissan tomorrow anyway, but let me know what you find if anything.

On 2/20/2018 at 06:40, Early jap nuter said:

You could try ues across the road from sterling clutch and brake. They have heaps of different rubbers or if not should know where to get it. I carnt remember the guys name but he’s a good basted he’s sorted all my odd rubber demands 

Thanks, I've had a browse on their website and may of found one of the ones I'm looking for.

I've also managed to find the part numbers for both and they seem to be available ex USA, so I'm going to go see the local Nissan dealer on Monday and see if they can source them for me.

Not until I remove it from the sunroof.  But then I won't want to risk driving it

Cheers man, appreciate that. 
I am onto a couple of leads ex UK, but want to try within NZ first.

Where can I source rubber seal for the sunroof? For my S12.  I want to replace the rubber on the top of the sunroof (and if I can the main seal).  Due to sun damage, it's starting to crack and fall apart.  Any suggestion on where or who to talk to?  I don't have a photo at the moment, but I'll add one in tomorrow.