bmxican

Exxy bad then? Do you know any of its specs?

Yes I am from nelson, it's still Chris's? motor. Different shell. His shell was rusted out. Its pretty quick.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48095-bmxicans-1983-ex-lancer-deathtrap-discussion/ Discuss here

Discuss here/ tell me i'm doing it all wrong, or to help.

Well Not another ex lancer to add to the old school forums. Brought a project lancer, need pretty much a whole interior and i have no idea how the seats got certified when they don't move, Could anyone do me up some seat rails? I don't have the factory items to start off with though. Its a factory turbo model replaced with a worked dohc 4g63t, pretty rough but adds to the character! No real plans as of yet just to get it legal again, and to sort the interior.

Now that I have your attention I have some rust to deal to where is the cheapest place to get this stuff?!

I like my bfm x series mazdas so not cool enough for here though, Im thinking of a bug eye 323 wagon but then ill just be another bogan, maybe a kp60 2 door with a 20v ?

I like the idea of turbos, and externals, but there illegial. Naughty thoughts chris.. Anyway, this thing is so sick! Glad to be privalaged enough to have a gander, I like what you have done with the throttle cable and the way everything has been deloomed , makes it look so sweet and factory, has given me some motivation to get stuck into some nasty wiring gremlins and tackle a megasquirt project. Oh and that induction noise! Keep up the good work, im sure the quality of this build is going to be enough motivation for others on here to pump out some builds of amazing quality also.

I take it there is no isgw pin then?

Sweet, should hopefully have it running shortly then.

Hey there, im currently wiring a 4age 20v silvertop up on my days off. So far i have gathered quite a bit of information off the net and im very eletrically minded so i have no issues following pin oits and diagrams once ive found out what each pin on the ecus task is. Its an auto ecu with a manual box. I have so far gathered the minimum for the car to actually run is as follows. BATT - 12v constant, goes directly to the battery via a 15 amp fuse, checked and wired into the batter now, ( memory wire) +B and +B1 should be wired into the 12v ignition switch when the key is turned to on. Goes through the main engine relay? Yet to trace back to the fusebox and find the corosponding wires to switch the relay. Not to sure on the relay ? STA - wired into the 12v ignition switch when the key is in the cranking position. The ecu needs to know when the motor is cranking. Does this go through a relay ? IGSW - wired into 12v when the key is in the run position (key to on same as the +b wires?) Right i can not find this pin printed on the ecu board itself or any pin outs on the internet is it possibly refered to as something else or is it not needed in a 20v? NSW - neutral start switch - 12v to trick the euc into being in the park position, i have wired the starter motor into the factory loom so is this still required as it cranks anyway now. Any help or advice would be appreciated , feelvfree to point out wires i dont or do need to get it running, p.s. fuel pump is hard wired.

I reakon your daily on cutties is mean as looks pretty dope with the suitcases on it, i've been meaning to ask while i see you at work, whats in it?

Pictureless update: Found some cancer, will sort that early next week had some help from alex so i have a rough idea of what im doing. I just did all the simple jobs on it like replacing all the wheel bearings. Its nice and quiet now

No sussed out a gas torch and just braized the tip on.

Yup the rear shock, Damn i thought that might of been an easy swap to get the wags lower.

Update: Got bored on monday and I decided to attempt to put the window in the red hatch. A few hours and a lot of cursing later it's in! I also managed to keep it in one piece, somehow Cheers to durty's help. Also added some fancy steel onto the end of the muffler and attacked the drool bar, need to tidy up the tow hooks when I can get access to a gas cutter. Next on my list is to try rectify the noisy rear wheel bearings, one side has a bent axle which won't be much help either. Then it's time to add some low, does anyone know if ex lancer rear struts are shorter than the mighty sigma wagon ones? And my fan doesn't seem to work so my demister involves winding down windows a tad and setting it to push fresh air in. Just works. Anyone know what might be the issue? Anyhow photobomb time. Yay a red hatch! Exhaust tip Does anyone have a helpful tip to get the last locking strip clip on? 1600 Dash cluster I like my big clock Brown dash for extra rad points. Only mark on my dash. Can't believe I paid $350 for this, Tidy, Legitimate 146,000k's Only interior part missing is an ashtray and passenger footwell carpet... Can anyone help? My mrs always manages to find a place to leave her drink.... Messy engine bay and is that a boat filter? Extractors starting to think the exhaust is worth more than I paid for the car

Oh giddaye there Alex! I had two gtx's between the levin and this, second one was a minter, sadly got written off... Yes a 12at would be sick! Maybe for a nice price. Haha. If you can sort me the fellow in Motueka's number I'll more than happily get some 14's or 15's Widened to suit, But before that on my list of things to do is sort noisy back wheel bearings some low and get the glass swapped into the mint hatch. Cheers Chris

In some desperate need of some low. heeeeelp. What springs fit? I want the double sigma slammed out look. Much apprecited

I shall do Damien, I'll also let you know if your tip fixes the timing. I'm situated in nelson btw,

Thanks, was his lancer pulling something redicously off the chart and running okay though? i'm more worried about the pop in the carb when you hit secondaries.

Have a sneaking suspicion my carb is rooted. When you set it to 13 btc as the cam cover asks for it runs nicely idleing and sounds quite good, but soon as you put your foot down it backfires out the carb, seems to do it when the secondaries open. Right now the only way it seems to run somewhat nicely is if i turn the dizzy a tooth and time it way off the chart. Not sure if the notch on the crank pully is out seems to be quite close when checking with a torch and someone checking it out through the spark plug hole. It was initially timed this way (off the chart and set fully retarded and it was running quite good but seems to only pop out the carb now that the dizzy has been rotated around a few times. Also what order do the leads go on the dizzy cap, it seems that if you have them starting at bottom left 1,3,4,2 it will be timed off the chart fully retarded or only got to 5 btc fully advanced by moving the dizzy a tooth, but if you take change the leads around to, 2,1,3,4 stating bottom left you can get it to time on the chart but it has no power and shoots flames out the carb on secondaries. Can anyone offer some help? I'm thinking it might be the accelerator pump on the carb, in which case a nice twin carb set up would be good as it has extractors, but fuel might talk some sence into me first.

The one on it is full of rust and bog, sort of straight.

Yes I think so also haha.

Can you offer me some help? Check out my build thread for photos of my hatch, Should be a link in my Signature.

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