SOHC

11 minutes ago, tortron said:

I have like 6 bare frames if that helps! 

I wanted a plastic tank but would consider the 86 steel tank, I wouldn't mind a TS185 steel tank or a 1980 plastic RM tank to, its for the TF, I want a narrow tank and to get the seat fward slightly and a longer narrow seat

@tortron you would happen to have a 1986 DR200 fuel tank and seat would you?

I traded something for this, has a broken piston ring land but its in good condition, I use to have a TF and it was really good for going slow on on the bush on my tracks where you would instantly be killed on an mx bike

This didn't end well, things were turning to shit 

This thing has some strange harmonics, fuel tap turned it self off and then fell off as with the dipstick and clutch adjustment

Oh the twin, they make a horrible noise with open pipes, most nasty annoying sound, starter clutches were allways stuck and oil leaks from the bottom of the cylinders flange. I had to flat tow start one to a party for one of the burnout bikes but it wouldn't go so we dragged it on its side up the road and burnt it in the driveway, 2nd one we were trying to tow start but the rider didn't inform me he couldn't even ride a bicycle.

I had a GSX400 Impulse, those engines take an amazing about of punishment

They were about 80 pounds, at about 4000 rpm it was valve bouncing, i put the outer springs from that old Norton speedway engine I got on trademe in witch are alot stronger, the bike also has a speedway head.

1 hour ago, GregT said:

No. Have you taken a breather off the rocker covers ? I've seen air get sucked in and down the guides and make it lean. So the reverse would happen too.  Even if you've stopped an oil leak up there it might have had air coming in.  Did you disturb the cam timing ?

It has open valve gear, i lubed everything up well when I had it apart, its not valve bouncing anymore, i need to find an alcohol needle, I have a 1200 main jet in it. It has the early brass body racing carb with no idol circuit and the needle in the slid  

@GregT

I put heaver valve springs in the methanol powered model 18 and now it has gone super rich in the bottom end mixture, have tou herd of that?

I am surprised how well that castor oil protects things, it dose have serious down sides like the ability to gum the motor solid

Thats good to know, I need to start wearing gloves but they make my fingers itchy, methanol seems to be one of the only things that removes castor oil

Been recommended castrol syntrax synthetic, they say you won't get the steel fluff on the magnets.

This came out after I flushed it with methanol, its now full of petrol now, I will end up pulling it apart and shimming the mainshaft and the rollers in the sleeve gear will be junk and the thrust washer conversion if it has one.

Castor oil in the gearbox, unchanged for 10+ years and has been raced a few times a year, castor has no corrosion inhibitors but there was very little steel in the oil but a little bronze.

On 21/12/2023 at 09:49, bathcollector said:

It is the FT1 model. I have an engine rebuild kit for it, was gonna do the engine and leave the bike as it is, patina if you like ? They are a neat little bike. It has a new seat cover on now too.

2 hours ago, GregT said:

Triumph and Jawa did it commercially. My first race bike had a Triumph slickshift box with the mechanism disabled. Apparently it was quite useful at stoplight drag races. Pressure on the lever held the clutch out, lift the foot and away you went.

Yes the Dnepr I have been riding has a slick shift to,

but this guy had it set up so it was just a crude foot clutch that yanked down only on the gear lever

I just bought a bike off a crackhead and he had rigged up a system that was going to pull on the clutch cable when you pressed down on the gear leaver, he got super up set when I sed it was no good and didn't want the parts witch consisted of one of those winnut things for tightening a bicycle wheel 

4 hours ago, GregT said:

If it is the new substitute it's supposed to be squeaky clean health wise. Any dust from machining should be an organic based epoxy if I remember what I was once told.

I know I was always bloody careful not to get a noseful of the dust from AM4 or really any of the linings from that era. When discs came in on bikes the whole brake job became a lot cleaner - and probably safer too.

But if its from china its probably got ground up people as well as asbestos in it

1 hour ago, GregT said:

That looks like the modern asbestos free version of the old green linings. Don't forget to hand cut water and dust removal slots on the leading edges. 

Yes the old Freodo AM4's were good, 

I would say these contain asbestos to, or something just as bad 

If you shim the brake shoes out at the cam and turn them in the lathe they work so well