SOHC
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Posts
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Everything posted by SOHC
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I put this all back together now, I just fired it up and ran it at a 1500 rpm for 20 mins, a few head studs are leaking, when I re torque them I will pull each one out and put some sealer on it, it has around 40 PSI oil pressure witch is good for 30w oil and the kind of pump I am using, after I seal the head studs I will run it again and then change the oil to something elce.
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Get some 19 mm2 cable
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I am pretty fucked off, it’s all together now apart from exhaust and fan but I found out the sump was dipped in something that fucked the new dipstick boss gasket and it’s now loose on the rivets, also it’s going to cost almost $400 for the stupid oil line fittings, I will try and do something elce for the oil lines because I don’t want to remove the brass fittings from the block and shit to fall down inside, I know little about pipe fittings
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Lots of people have sed to me use branded shit like castrol and never use anything like SCA branded coolent or brake fluid as it’s shitty
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It would cost over $400 to fill my cooling system with waterless
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It’s not anti boil to witch is a problem, I live in some mountains where it dose freeze during the winter
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What’s a good antifreeze/ antiboil and rust inhibitor for very old cars? I have been using that radiator technology shit mixed at 75% as this stoped it pushing coolent out the overflow when the engine is turned off but it had crappy rust inhibitor, is for my ford witch holds 20L, it use to be a non pressure system but I have fitted a 4 or a 7 pound cap.
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The angle of the lever on the gearbox is at the wrong angle, it’s in N now, I thinks it’s some shitty ford thing because I think the other gearbox is the same, probably to get the the thing to stay in gear because it’s hard to get it out of 2nd and top
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I need some help here, the clutch springs hit the flywheel bolts by about 0.5mm. the friction shit is 2mm to the top of the countersunk rivits and the bolts heads are 8.4mm tall, so if I had some low profile flywheel bolts I think it would fix the problem? I had to take the sump off and gasket tore witch is annoying
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Laced up the front rim but haven’t tightened the nippels, I got a cople extra spokes and because they are aliexpress shit I did some testing on them to see how strong they are and they seem tougher than the old spokes, sparks fly off them when I hit them with an axe.
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Had a lot of trouble with my health but I managed to get the engine out, I have sort of come right, I just need to remove the clutch off the new motor to fit the pilot bearing and drill and tap the holes in the new bellhousing. started making a new floor, just going to make a flat one as I am going to glue carpet to it, old one was half steel and wood and very hard to remove. I am shit scared of starting the new motor, got to get hold of a pressure pre lube tool to prime the oil pump and gallery’s, engine builder sed run it at a fast idol for 20 mins and keep the rpm changing
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Not really, taking anything of the front makes the clutch fingers dangerously close to the bell housing and the back it pretty thin
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No that would cause the clutch to hit the bellhousing and starter problems
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The spigot shaft on my ford is long but I want to put an 8mm plate in between the gearbox and the bell housing to adapt another gearbox, dose it matter if the splines don’t go all the way through the clutch centre but most of the way?
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Random slightly cool stuff you built but not worth its own thread, thread
SOHC replied to h4nd's topic in Other Projects
Gas forge and burner I made for someone who wants to do knife making.
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Dose anyone have one of those oil priming tools that you connect to the compressor to prime the oil pump and Gallary’s I could borrow?
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Those synchros look like they still have a bit of go in them?
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I think that’s acid marks and not a cracked tooth? I have it a tap with a punch and it didn’t change
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Almost time to do the engine swap, that’s all under control but I am thinking of fitting the other gearbox I have, it had clean oil but I have no idea what it’s like, looked ok when I had the lid off. The gearbox in the car won’t go into reverse sometimes and you have to change into gear then back into reverse or double clutch to get it to click in and it will jump out of 2nd under engine braking on very steep hills and when I fitted the bell housing I had to drill a mounting hole and where I drilled hit a bearing lol, I need to space that hole out a bit to avoid that spot.
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The timing side bearing on thees JAP engines is a crowded needle roller witch runs directly on the main shaft, they are a real heart breaker. I need to find a way to get the inner bearing shell out of the crank cace
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Split the crank on one of the motors and rod and crank pin are in good condition, but this crank has a different main shaft, it’s looking like I need to get a new mainshaft made, bathcolector sent me a better one I will see if it cleans up with a grind and O/S rollers, cam pinon gear is pretty bad to.
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Took both motors apart to find the one I want to use has some moisture damage to the shaft, (rollers run directly on the shaft) big end feels really good play wise but probably has the same problem. other motor looks as if it never had an oil change
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I am probably going to sell the engine out of this, $4000, runs really well, fumes out the breather a bit but uses no oil, +30 on the bores, recently put new head gaskets in it and had the heads milled, 5T camshaft, stainless valves.
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Wiped up another muffler as so I can chop and change
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I may make another one, with out a fish tail or a smaller fishtail I am not sure I just wanted to make one
