Abarth

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About Abarth

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  • Birthday 13/07/85

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  1. Summer is finally here in London, been mint cruising round decent weather. She's been running good, super reliable. She's getting a bit noisy in the top end so I'll get the cam chain and tensioner replaced for some peace of mind shortly. These motors apparently are notorious for their chewing out their rubber tensioner wheels over time. Got some sweet 78 Sprint glove for summer rides too, they have a lot of cool summer riding gear on this site, check it out: https://www.78motorco.com
  2. Weber specialties used to throw in a free manifold if you brought new 40 DCOE's from them and they'd fit the right jets too. Id be heading down this route if I were to start again, expensive initially but way cheaper in the long run. A pair of 40's, a 2.5 inch exhaust and this motor will rev happy. Even just the exhaust, 2.5 inch bends, a large straight through perferated resonator in the centre (not louvred) and a straight through muffler on the end will go well. You'll get all the crackl pop on the overrun too. My mates Strada 130tc made gains of 10% on the dyno with just the exhaust mod.
  3. Been working on a couple of my mates bikes over the past year too. Massive amount of effort went into getting this 1971 Triumph running again. Started off life with looking alright with chrome, metallic blue and white scallops. But yikes underneath was a different story, fuel tank was so rusty it leaked fuel on one ride ruining the factory blue paint, cooked no less that two Pazon electronic ignitions before we completely replaced the wiring loom. Positive earth wiring really? New carbs, cables, shocks, tires, etc.... Boom, cafe spec.... runs good now! 650cc 4 speed, but my, such a brut to ride with so much torque on tap. Also did some work on a 250 Honda Superdream, I really like this bike, sits low and has those sweet Comstar wheels.
  4. I decided I like the factory chrome look so I added genuine Honda indicators to replace the old rusted out ones. I painted the triple tree and handle bar mounts in VHT Epoxy satin black. Slowly getting this bike tidier. Now these bikes are know for their charging systems being weak, a common mod on these is to remove the old regulator and the rectifier and replace it with a modern 2 in 1 regulator/recifiter unit. Got started pulling out the wiring and noticed it was pretty rusty round the battery holder so that all came out for a freshen up. Can see the factory regulator tucked under the bottom of the battery tray. All removed The original regulator wiring is left disconnected in the loom. The original rectifier (orange fins) is removed and the wiring for this is used for the new regulator/rectifier unit. Yellow and Pink wires are from the alternator, green is earth and red is positive. Cleaned up the battery holder, stripped to bare metal and gave it a couple of coats of epoxy paint. Luckily the new regulator/rectifier bolt holes almost lined up to the original regulator holes on the bottom of the battery holder. A quick file to slot the holes and bam fits mint. Added some super seal connectors for reliability and bolted it all back together. Gave it a polish, as it stands now:
  5. Sweet 125, are those 125T spec seats up front? Future engine plans?
  6. Was pining over tire stickers on some instagram cafe racers so decided to get some for the Honda. Loads of different types on tirestickers.com but settled on Yokohama Advan being a Japanese bike and all. I have the Advan stickers to add on the opposite side of the tire, so far so good.
  7. Added a new chain, front and rear sprockets, what a difference! Since this is my first bike and all my previous two wheel rides were Vespas I had no idea the old chain had so much slop in it. Also banged in a genuine Honda oil seal behind the engine sprocket just for future piece of mind. After a lot of work she seems to be running good mechanically now so the focus is on to tidying this up externally. I'm torn on keeping that big chrome, stock fenders classic look or cut everything down to create a cafe racer. In the mean time I brought new mufflers to replace the old rusted out pieces. They came with the thinnest sound baffle already (yellow) so I added an extra sound baffle kit (white) to reduce the noise. Goes well now, although I need to have a fiddle with the carbs again to balance them out, one header pipe had a baffle jammed in it and the other side didn't. Who knows why but I removed it so both cylinders flow at the same rate.
  8. Those side covers look mint man, I'm keen to do this on my K0. Are you going to spray them with matt clear coat to keep them crisp?
  9. The tires on it also looked about the same age as the shocks so they were binned for new ones, I liked the ribbed vintage look so I got some new Chen Sheng and Maxxis tires. Then had a massive day at the workshop; Installed new rear shocks New tires, inner tubes and rim tape Stripped and rebuilt the front forks, new genuine Honda seals and fork oil. New brake shoes, lubed the brake drum mechanisms. Tided up some rough as guts wiring around the points. Rides well now, handles solid round corners and the brakes actually work. Stoked!
  10. Next mission was to upgrade the way it went round corners, with blown front seals weeping milky fork oil and shocks on the rear which looked like the factory ones it was lose in the corners. Offered a lush ride over bumps but thats about it. Got some new rear shocks and painted the tops black to blend into the bike better.
  11. This graph is for a Vespa 50cc 2 stroke but should be similar to the Honda 50cc 2 stroke. Handy for guessing peak power with different exhausts.
  12. 7.5 grams would be good to start with. Factory ET2 and LX50 vespas ran these weights and could hit 70kph on the flat.
  13. Yeah that port is effectively a breather, filtered through a carbon canister for emissions etc. Apparently people plumb it to the air filter? With the idle mixture screw, generally its clockwise lean, anticlockwise rich. There will be a manual or something which specifies that the screw should be 2 to turns out from close. Set it 2 turns out,start the motor and warm it up, then screw the idle mixture screw slowly in till the motor starts to stumble, this will make it run too lean. Then slowly like quarter turns screw it anti clock wise to let more fuel in, you should hear the engine speed pick up a bit and smooth out. Too far antilock wise and it'll start to run poor again as it'll be rich. Should land somewhere close 2 turns out. I used a glass spark plug to set this up on my motorbike thread, makes it an easy job but you should be able to get it reasonable good by ear.
  14. Man this car is sweet, I've enjoyed watching it's progress. That's a port to the carbon canister. How does it run rough? Just Idle? These motors respond well to side draft carbs. I had 40mm Solex's on my Fiat (same motor) and it was good for 130hp in standard tune.
  15. Been riding this as my daily, everything was running good except the battery kept going flat. Found these specs on the net: CB250 = 110W output (~8A)1156 bulb draw - 27.3 watts EACH (1.93A)1157 bulb draw - 26.9 watts full (1.92A), 8.3 watts running (.6A)Headlight - OEM - 25W/35W (1.7A/2.5A)coil charging (assuming 5 ohm primary resistance, 14.5 volts) - 42 watts (2.9A)neutral/indicator bulbs - 3 watts (.2A) So the charging system wasn't up to the task of keeping the battery charged while riding round with the headlights on 100% of the time. To fix this I upgraded to LED bulbs which use about 1/8 the power; brake light, park lights and gauge lights. Way brighter now and the battery stays topped up.