Popular Post mlracing.co.nz Posted March 24 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 24 Trust me to turn a one hour job into two days. Ever since I had the SSR MK3s built there was some fender scraping on one side in the rear (which is why I decided to switch it up briefly and have one side swapped around front to back). This is partially because the rear arches are probably uneven and filled with bog and partially because I had the wheels built without measuring anything. Seeing as I was doing a Whiteline stock order I added one of their adjustable panhard rods and try to square up the rear diff. First issue was one of the nuts stripped threads so I had to cut that off and made a hash of it, then I was trying to do this job without unbolting the 4 control arms which meant the diff was super hard to move around so I gave up and went home to sleep off my hangover. Day 2 I straight away unbolted the four control arms and life was considerably easier. I need to get another castle nut to replace the one I cut off but otherwise it's on now. Also a little bonus is the control arm bushes appear to have been replaced so they're still nice. Seems like I was also adjusting it the wrong way so rectified that and I think it's about even on both sides now. Keeping in mind the guards are filled with bog so also not really even. I was thinking about doing a slight one way height adjust on the rear but might leave it for now until car is back to driving and see how the clearance is. Long term plan is not to use those wheels anyway. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mlracing.co.nz Posted March 26 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 26 I won't bombard you with 50 more Panel Barry Hakosuka photos but this one is a huge milestone. The majority of the fabrication and rear end structure have been completed and the final weld up is on! The chassis is now razor straight, likely straighter than when it came out of the factory. I can't remember the last time it had a rear end on it? It's been over 5 years for sure. The back panel you see there is the original one which he's using to get the correct holes for welding then will be replaced with a brand new reproduction item that I've provided. Onto the front and to my amateur eyes it doesn't look nearly as bad as the rear but I'll leave it to the professionals on that one. He will have a poke around, clean up what can be cleaned up and replace what needs replacing. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 6 Author Share Posted April 6 Even after spending like $150 on some beefy blades I still can't cut these damn rollcage boxes out. They must be made of uncutanium or something. Congratulations rollcage boxes, you live forever. I even tried to grind down the top so it was flat but that would have taken 20 years, ain't nobody got time. I'll just get the new carpet and then try to cover them somehow, maybe use the old carpet to make up something; not sure yet. So after that disappointment I found a distraction. I mentioned some time ago about the trims around the windscreens being terrible to look at and it just so happened I had some trim paint laying around. I think they came out great, but now they're a little too shiny compared to the rest of the car.. hopefully over time they'll fade a bit. I'll get some more paint and tape and do the rear to match. I do have the trims to go around the front and rear windscreens however that's a windows out job and I don't really want to find out what's underneath. This is what 20 year old underseal looks like when it's wire wheeled off. While I was in between coats of the windscreen seals I removed the side trim and wired off the remaining crusty old underseal coating that was put on. Unfortunately as you can see lots of the paint also came off so I will spray new undercoating there and re-install the trim after giving it a polish. Originally those trims use plastic clips to hold them on but mine was riveted so not sure if I will rivet again or maybe use screws instead. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 7 Author Share Posted April 7 In typical Alex fashion I started a job without having all the bits to complete it. That mess I posted yesterday got covered up today with new underseal but I ran out so only have the one side done so far. I've just sat the trim on there loosely with some incorrectly sized screws but you can get the idea. I think it turned out pretty good. The trims looked pretty nasty after years of sitting around so I hit them with a bit of scotch pad to get rid of the muck and surface rust. That'll do. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mlracing.co.nz Posted April 14 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 14 Aftermarket carpet sucks. I learnt this the hard way I suppose. The Celica carpet was already aftermarket by the time I got it and it was super old, dirty and chopped to hell. In my attempt to try and freshen up the interior this year I decided to get one of those moulded carpets. I quickly realised I'm not made for an upholstery career. They say you should start from the rear and move forwards when fitting them up. The problem I quickly found was that these are not quite right for this car. Research suggests that they are in fact moulded off TA23 not TA22, a small but important difference. TA22 did not even have carpet like this from the factory, more like glorified floor mats. My cutting skills are terrible as I was getting annoyed by this point, and the blades were getting blunt. I initially wanted to wrap it under the seat base however the seat sits directly on the body with no room to move so that was not possible. Additionally the roll cage mounts in the rear are in the way of the seat bottom which is why its curved up on each end. I'm not sure what the OEM TA22 carpet looks like but I believe there are some clips that it can use to hold up, but I've not actually seen any factory standard TA22 carpets in person before to compare it. I'll paint the floor black and the rear around the seats so it is less noticeable but yeah, disappointed with my efforts on that one. Another thing about the TA23 vs TA22 is the TA23 side rocker sill things are designed for the edge of the carpet to go underneath and bolt down, TA22 are not. That means more rough cuts along the side edges too. As you can see, lots of bits cut off. Anyway I got the front kind of fitted up as best as possible (remember those fucking blocks in the way) and installed the seats back. I'll need to replace these as it turns out as there is some damage on both of them (more than just superficial and foam). Then I got her fired up and went for a burn and I didn't care about the carpet at all. The fuel is probably 2 years old by now and it still worked mint. Sadly I don't have a phone mount but the sounds on song were excellent. The panhard rod I put in stopped any rubbing that I could tell and actually the car handled surprisingly well. It goes, stops and turns just like it should. Good car. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 20 Author Share Posted April 20 Not too much done today, but I did get a replacement headlight for the one I broke ages ago when I was fitting the others. It was not actually intentionally meant to be a blank space. SEV Marchal! I always liked the look of yellow and of course the sweet cat logo. I will just run one, a little bit of style perhaps. Plugged it in and it works fine so that was easy. Although I need to figure out why the passenger outer light turns off when the high beams are on. Not super high on my list of priorities seeing as it's unlikely to ever be used anyway. I finished putting undercoat on the driver side so installed the side metal trims just using some screws. Not the best but it's what I could find that fits. Gotta fuck with the dick you got. Not sure they will stay in there securely so I'll have to keep an eye on it. When I was out taking these photos just down the road some guy gave us a toot and a thumbs up on the way past and I was only out there for about 2 mins! Unfortunately (but probably not unexpected) my front demister blower isn't working. I can't remember if it ever worked but I might look at trying to get that going again as it could come in handy. The rear demister I'm fairly sure is totally cooked but that's not such an issue as the front. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlracing.co.nz Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 OK last post about painting trims. This time I did the rear but it didn't turn out as good as the front I don't think. I had to get some new tape and I think this tape is probably shit (it is because I got the cheapest one) and it let a bit of the paint bleed through the edges. I tried to rub some of it off with isopropyl and solvents but it ended up just rubbing the paint off as well. Same problem with using a blade, the paint is so bad the blade just sliced it. Then I thought about it and figured it was dumb to stress about these little bits when you look at how the rest of the car looks anyway haha. 10 footer with an instagram filter all day. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mlracing.co.nz Posted April 23 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 23 Panel Barry is a stickler for door gaps. Suppose he wouldn't be panel Barry if he wasn't a gap commander. These dogleg panels (his words) which cover the front portion of the rear arch were not lined up well with the doors and it was throwing off some other things. These little panels have always been messed up since I got it, probably since 30 years ago to be fair. So out comes the cutting and welding tools again. The doors also weren't perfect so fixed that up on both sides. I'm happy to hear, and his words "This is the end of the real time consuming type of repairs". We'll see about that I suppose as he works the front. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlracing.co.nz Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago I'm on the home stretch for the first part of the interior freshen up. The painting went well as you can see, much improved over the crusty red which was there before. I didn't bother to clean up or dry ice anything just scuffed and spray with my favourite Rustoleum 2x. I also tidied up that little bit of fuel pump wiring as well before putting the seat back in. Why didn't I paint the upper part and the sides? Basically I got lazy but also realised there would be scope creep of doing the roof at the same time so I'll take care of that in the near future. Problem is those upper side panels (called sail panels in some places) don't exist anymore. Any that I could find are brittle/fucked or fibreglass/metal which I don't want. Ideally I would like some super good condition OEM ones so I can have them reproduced.. if anyone has any let me know. I also thought it might be interesting to get some Butaketsu (C130) Laurel front winkers and see what they looked like. Seems like they're a little large I think for the small front of the Celica. Oh well. I will likely replace the original Celica lenses with clear ones as well as clear front corners in the future. I was trying to avoid dealing with this disaster, and still mainly have managed to avoid doing anything but I did try to file in some grooves to make the winder work, maybe it worked a bit better as I was able to get the window up. The window frame or regulator (is that what you still call it if it's not electric?) must be bent because it's quite difficult. Eventually this will need to be addressed I suppose but not today Satan. How's the weather tightness 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.