deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 14 May 2018 because i like spares, and bargains.... bought another engine. basically the guy bought a car with this engine and wanted to boost it TO THE MOON! (the 2 litre has bigger bore, so less meat for gasket and they can split bores)( so he's building a nuts 1800, basically a 2 litre crank with smaller bore) only reco'd 4yrs ago, not much work(no idea on kms though) 2litre, flycut 20thou over pistons, reground crank, etc(basically what i was going to be doing to the short block i have here for $1500, this was $350 with the big exhaust(massive for NA. 2.5" with 3" tailpipe) ideal for turbo, surprised he didn't keep it.( i sold this later, too big for my goals) missing sump and head, but i have those here spare, also missing dissy, i may get one to make it run on the stand later otherwise.. spares.. if you have them, you don't need them pretty much if you want to learn how to tie knots in rope, just get yourself some headphones or extension cords Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 14 May 2018 no choke cold weather idle...helped me narrow down a squeak in the back..thought it was the spare wheel,(tucked rags behind it) fuel tank cover(put a rubber mat under it) back seat( tried it folded down also) in the tail gate somewhere.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 14 May 2018 number 45... i'll put this here for later, took Me ages to find a pic of it. My cortina carby accelerator pump squirts very little fuel out,and squirts some back into the bowl(float chamber *17) .. it's because of the Ball number 45 below. probably has a bit of dirt under it the size of a grain of salt ? it's PLUGGED, not really accessible, but may be able to be back flushed from inside the bowl.. this photo of the pump jet circuit should at least remind me to sus it out next time i have the lid off the carby blowing compressed air in there may fix pdf to read oneday...shows how the 38 38 weber works which is almost identical except it has 2 idle screws and both barrels open at same time(and it's bigger) the 34ADM probably is similar in a lot of ways also http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/38-38.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 27 May 2018 i greased 2 rubber pads on the body where the tailgate rests on, squeak gone.. for now(might make plastic ones) clocking up the Ks again, went to Gembrook yesterday to catch up with a mate, decided to test the phone mount out again with the window up, hopefully i can use it for the Calder run whenever that is next. no issues other than exhaust scrape over a driveway hump.. will have to check it for leaks.. don't get your exhaust done before you lower your car.. exhaust mobs think ahh, plenty of room.. but would have tucked it up better if it was dumped i bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 2 June 2018 well, i thought it was hard for Me to get started in the winter mornings.. but the car didn't like it much either. so rather than buy a new manual choke kit for $80, and choke cable for $20 plust post, i chose to buy a used carby with one fitted from ebay for $135 incl post(or thereabouts) and go to pick a part for choke cable. cost slightly more, but now i have spares. still got wiring to do, but did get to fitting the replacement coil(note how i didn't say NEW either.. hopefully it's fine.) spares, actually it's not a power valve, it's a low vacuum enrichment thing.. so if you are going up a hill at low revs full throttle it should put more fuel in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 6 June 2018 been doing things still.. ordered a 50ml syringe to CC my spare head for the spare block, this head has been shaved to the limit i assume to increase compression ratio. It's a 1600 head that has been on a 2 litre. i was a bit concerned when i read the reco engine's reciept and saw 47cc had 9.7to1 comp ratio and was guessing a shaved head would be less, so measured mine and found it to be 50cc.. should be ideal. it's a small port head with small valves(no smaller than My other engine though which is probably comp ratio of 8.2 ish?) i have to CC the valve reliefs to get a true compression ratio. but it would be fine to use this head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 6 June 2018 had the left door not opening again, (happened when i was at the dyno tuner), couldn't figure it out until i removed the mechanism.. all gummed up from 30yrs of dry grease and dust.. very similar to an E series/XG XH mech, so i soaked it in petrol and brushed it clean and oiled it .. refitted original 35 year old made in england door handles.. new one was already having issues.. not as bad as the driver one below though. the driver side had started becoming a bit of a pain to open recently, and getting in through the tailgate didn't seem appealing. so i removed all the door mech and handle to find the handle has snapped off a hinge pin. repro stuff.. crapola. very similar to Xseries handles, so i repaired an original that had popped the rivet off.. no idea where the washer went, so made a new one, and bolted it together.. naturally nothing open on a sunday when i fixed it, so i just welded the nut on rather than wait and buy a nylocknut. i also greased all the window cables, and sprayed CRC in the rollers and winders. fixed it good as new nearly. wash the mech 5 cent door handle repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 7 June 2018 no idea why car's don't come with tie downs.. oh, well Magna's do, these came off 2 Magnas at pick a part(2 from each) 2 i mounted without the plastic recessed surround due to nothing to recess into note the "captive nut" it's a nut welded to a bit of sheet metal, held in place with a self tapper to also stop it spinning because you cant get a spanner in there with the panel on.. (didn't want to weld in there with fuel hoses inside) drilled for bigger bolts also, because i didn't have any smaller bolts with nuts laying around.. should hold a ton or so.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 10 June 2018 here's an Expectation Vs Reality comparison again. did something useful while watching TV last night, roughed out My wiring diagram for the gauges (why does the UA AU in gauges and guards differ, i always fuck the spelling up) got it all wired and mounted in the console and ran out of daylight.. 5 wires to hook up, i only need to find instrument lights, or i could just run the off the IGN+ if it didn't annoy Me(probably would annoy me) i tested the tacho prior to fitting because the wires were already on the shift light.(aka shit light) and the tacho seems slow, it was labeled as a 4cyl ONLY one, but is definitely reading at what i guess half speed.. so i will address that later. BGDAV has a cheap one with various switches i can plug in and run next to it to compare, might swap him if its a V8 one? i mainly want the volt gauge and oil pressure to work.. might be expecting too much seeing they are cheapies also expectation.. reality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 11 June 2018 Uh Oh Spagetti oh (rope nightmares) i saw the ad for a gemini engine $100.. figured i recently sold a chrome rocker cover for $80... then needed a rocker cover for My reco bottom end build up... and a dizzy.. why not whole engine... and then saw.. the pic of the manifold, its a twin outlet, supposed to be as good as extractors(when used with long pipes off it) and it also gives it a reasonable chance of being a BIG PORT HEAD. not sure what it will be like seeing it's been sheded for 20(twenty) years.. but will find out soon. i didn't even check if it still turned over. 2 of us lifted it into the back of the wagon, it's sitting on a piece of ute floor from a falcon wreck, which also has cardboard under it.. i also rested the intake on the tyre when we layed the engine back and tied it to the engine(as it would be typical to slide out the first move) used all My tie downs and wanted more in the front area... will add some(used the seat belt top hoops as a just in case scenario seeing there was leftover rope) now i need to build a something to get the engine out of the car.. probably just slide it off onto a stack of 2 wheels first. also put a jack under the floor and took some weight off the springs, don't need superlows turning into ultra lows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 11 June 2018 it isn't seized either tempted to assemble the thing and fire it up on the ground 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 13 june 2018 when i bought this engine, bloke said "she'll be right" has no oil in it(regarding laying the engine over in the back of the wagon.. no probs, i brought THIS with Me.. spark plug jammed in a hose for dipstick hole(had to do similar when i sold the old 1600) yeah sure buddy, checked the oil when i finally found my spare dipstick(could have just poked some wire down but wanted to know how much anyway) set it up for compression test next step is FIRE IT UP.. confirmed it has oil pressure by the switch with the multi meter connected on the compression test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 13 June 2018 cranking it over video.. first engine in a while i didn't need to bolt a gearbox to for starter motor(has a steel adaptor plate) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 17 June 2018 what's going on here? first time cranking with spark in 20yrs i sanded the points, found another spark plug lead(used the 20yr old plugs and leads) primed the carby bowl, cranked it over to confirm spark(coil lead to head) and hit the "key" not sure i'd trust it as is, but i bought it for the head(they suffer the same as Xflow heads, with water jacket corrosion, warping, soft alloy etc.but i planned on fitting it to the reco (4yrs ago) short 2 litre engine i bought a month back.. if i didn't dyno tune the current combo i'd be tempted to slap it on the engine in the car already.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 21 June 2018 yesterday i went to bunnings and got a computer colour match of the "buckskin" kick panel and had 500ml mixed up in exterior self priming paint. you can see it's pretty close when dry on the kick panel.. i wasn't going to remove the MDF because i'm lazy.. but the effort in not spilling brown paint in my red car seemed worth the effort. i'll consider "routering" the edges with a flap disc on the grinder.. need to test a spot first. i may just take the sharp edge off. pics speak for themselves, i decided to "reco" the old panels also, just because the paint was going to be wasted otherwise. also made a bezel to surround the latch access hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 1 July 2018 RACE DAY AGAIN well, i didn't get conclusive results.. but the car feels better Calder was plagued with delays today, i got 2 runs in and called it time to leave.. got there at 9am. left at 2.30pm with only 2 runs.first run was a flat 18 with heaps of wheel spin.. second run was better, when i picked up the time sheet it said 17.5 which is what it ran prior with poor tuning(was lean then though) video from this morning.. the fogged up inside of the screen also was frozen.. this would not have been fun without the choke i thought the screen said 17.1 but it was actually same as the time slip according to someone who filmed the run semi slicks.. would have made a massive difference the person filming was there to see the 8 second gemini.. aka not mine lol this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy2wgOg1vdg&ab_channel=Fullboost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 1st July 2018 this is the scenic drive down the 1/4 mile sunday drive.. chopped the VL on take off..not sure if he was"building boost" P plater shouldn't have boost though. in case you didn't see the link in previous post on the 8 second gemini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 5 July 2018 finally got around to pulling the 1600 head off(that i bought for $100). looks pretty good from first inspection silastic in the water jacket.. carby gasket was back to front(bigger throttle plate restriced by smaller gasket hole..) why does My big port head goes no better than it did with the small port.... OH! what's with the gasket blocking secondary throat with the small hole part of the gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 5 August 2018 update time.. i broke the gearbox.. about a week after going to Calder raceway... just took off normally then clang.suspect it's input shaft bearing.. killed a few single rails and T5s the same way in the past.. i got spares, will fit one one day soon ish .(within a month i guess) i dropped off the 1600 head to be checked/reco. and the guy said he'd only do whats needed or wanted.. (checked for hardness free) if it had have been stuffed i'd have settled for the small port head being cleaned up. but, it checked out quite well, the hardness test was EXCELLENT! the valve guides as new, inlet valves good (machined seats and valves instead of lapping) but exhaust valves a bit "hammered" so they were replaced. needed welsh plugs(under the cam) replaced and the water fitting on the front, nothing i didn't already know about.. (one of the reasons you don't just slap in an old motor and cross your fingers) he had a "HOT CAM" on the shelf new, no specs, couldn't remember who it's from even.. and i am getting that for a steal.. (turned out to be a Crow Cam not listed on their website, lower lift hot cam similar to a 2509) that naturally needed better valve springs.. so $$$$ more money(did i hear keep it stock mentioned somewhere? oh, yeah.. page 1) he did give it a clean up type port job on the short turn radius while it was apart.. because... why wouldn't you(no charge even) i asked him to check for Coil Bind with the big cam, he did fit Nissan TB42 valve stem seals because they are shorter than gemini ones just in case the valve lift was massive? not knowing the specs of the cam, i can only go by Crow's Hot cam range of 3000rpm to 7000rpm..(that's for the 1600, so the 2 litre may be more like 2500 to 6500) the various people i have asked about having it measured to dial it in have ALL said , chuck it in dot to dot and see how it feels.. (check for piston to Valve clearance.. this head/cam is going on the bottom end i bought recently with flycut pistons) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 5 August 2018 gearbox noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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