SOHC’s 27 Ford RPU

[SOHC]

I ended up butchering the VDO speedo a bit, I tried to re calibrate it by adjusting the spring bit now it goes to about 35 MPH and stops, I damaged the bezel to, it’s a hunk of shit like the the SW gauges,  I have a cople smiths speedos, the big one would connect right to my cable but is it too big? And I have one from a motorcycle but cable needs an adapter, I started making one but couldn’t get the thing to run concentric.

[SOHC]

It seems my speedo cable  is not spinning fast enough for any speedo, I have spoken to a cople speedometer repair places but they are arrogant as fuck.

[SOHC]

The VDO speedo has a 18mm BSP or something thread, I soldered a blumbing fitting onto my adaptor and lengthened it a bit by brazing the end up, also brazed on a tube for the light bulb, I think I need one of those step up gearbox things for the speedo witch won’t work with this adapter, why is everything so fucking difficult?? Non of the speedos o want to use have normal fittings.

[SOHC]

I reckon that looks better, probably horribly inaccurate and the small light bulb in the back hardly lights it up

[SOHC]

Broke the pick up tube but but I have some that didn’t have the tube from factory so will use one of them, friend pressed the new bushes in and gear on to the end of the oil pump shaft for me, and I sent the engine to someone he knows who can do everything from boreing the cylinders and grinding the crank and balance witch is good.

[SOHC]

I got another pick up from a rooted 21 stud engine I had, these old engines are coated in carbon all over on the inside like the inside of an exhaust but it’s stuck on like 2k paint and the smell is terrible, 

going to make an engine stand witch supports the engine from the exhaust port bolts as it’s very bad to hang the whole engine from the little bell housing bolts on such a thin casting.

[SOHC]

I am going to run a remote 95% flow oil filter rather than the 10% flow, my Brengun carrier block has an extra port for this and all I need to do is install a grub screw between the gallery’s, it use to have a very complicated system with an oil cooler + filter + bypass valve. Been having Barry battles about this on Fordbarn, I am going to run 1/4” fittings and some of them say I need to drill them out to 3/8 but the factory system uses 1/4” and people fucked the block with 3/8 by making the oil galleries wall too thin, I have steel 1/4 fittings I can drill out a bit.

I went to pick a part and there was a valiant with a slant 6 and I got a really cool remote filter.

[SOHC]

That’s the valiant oil filter I am running as a bypass filter, it will be 85% flow with the new motor, it’s tapped in next to the oil pressure gauge with a 50 thou jet to bleed off oil, then it returns to the sump, it’s not the best but that’s all they had apart from they had a cartridge type.

Tomorrow I will get some spacers parted off frown this hollow bar to put under the adjusters on the rear coil overs, I need a bit of extra preload on the rear shocks.

 

when I was underneath I think my diff is leaking out the front seal, I have never changed one of them, I want to do a front and rear seal in the trans to when the engine is out. 

 

Edit, spacer rings didn’t work but I made a better C spanners from a leaf spring and I got almost 20mm more and that has made everything better.

[SOHC]

Went for a drive today, it’s going better than ever apart from the hot start problem witch may be related to the worn out ignition switch witch causes a misfire sometimes. Speedo is working well, 30 MPH works out to be about 58 KPH I can live with that, side mirror blew off but luckily it landed in the car, PCV is wonderful, oil stays clean and way less fumes, I am wondering about slotting the distributor for more advanced, I set it max advance all ready and I am running 91 with no pinging. 

On the hunt for some 600-15” tires, my front tires are old and hard like they are made from stone 

[SOHC]

I ordered a set of new front tires and took the car around to the shop when I did it, I thought he sed 5.80 15” but they are 5.60 15” pretty vague in the measurements, he had some 6.80 15” witch he sed the ones he ordered would be the same but a bit lower in the side wall, I went to pick them up and they are way too small, they are for a 3.5” rim not a 6”, and he is saying he won’t take them back as he got them in for me but I reckon it’s 80% his fault, I don’t know much about shitty old crosply tire sizing the tire width is all over the show.

[SOHC]

I need to make a quick decision now to change plans on my engine build, should I fit this crank witch uses modern style shell big end bearings and a positive rear main seal? I would have to change the rear seal plate in the block witch just sits in and is held in place by the sump and I will need to fit the later oil pump and buy a new seat of big end bearings. Or should I just run with the old full floating bearings? 

 

[SOHC]

Finally got some front tires, never in my life have I had to buy such expensive tires, the single most expensive item on the car so far.

[SOHC]

For a side project I am going to build as meany 2bbl holly carbs as I can.

[SOHC]

For some reason I was avoiding buying new wheel nuts for the front as I thought they would be expensive but it was $12 for a set of 10, and now I can ditch the 3 different shapes and sizes of nuts I had on before, got the new tires put on, finding tubes was a little tricky and I had to drive a lot to get them, tire shops look at me funny when I want cross ply tires fitted. 

[SOHC]

Got a new ignition, I think I will grind out the rivets that hold the old ignition and mag switch in and mount it it’s place? I might move the amp gauge upto where the ford one is but I need to open the hole up, I am going to fit two temp gauges in the bezel below, one for each cylinder head as they are basically two separate cooling systems, Ford used 2 senders and one gauge somehow.

 

[SOHC]

Found something I made a long time ago when I planned to have 2 gauges in the middle of the dash, welded a washer in one side for the ignition, I will move the oil pressure gauge up next to the ignition and install the 2nd temperature gauge down below. It would actually look cool if I set all the gauges in the dash but I cannot be bothered, 

[SOHC]

I am probably going to sell the engine out of this, $4000, runs really well, fumes out the breather a bit but uses no oil, +30 on the bores, recently put new head gaskets in it and had the heads milled, 5T camshaft, stainless valves.

[SOHC]

Almost time to do the engine swap, that’s all under control but I am thinking of fitting the other gearbox I have, it had clean oil but I have no idea what it’s like, looked ok when I had the lid off. The gearbox in the car won’t go into reverse sometimes and you have to change into gear then back into reverse or double clutch to get it to click in and it will jump out of 2nd under engine braking on very steep hills and when I fitted the bell housing I had to drill a mounting hole and where I drilled hit a bearing lol, I need to space that hole out a bit to avoid that spot.

[SOHC]

Had a lot of trouble with my health but I managed to get the engine out, I have sort of come right, I just need to remove the clutch off the new motor to fit the pilot bearing and drill and tap the holes in the new bellhousing.

started making a new floor, just going to make a flat one as I am going to glue carpet to it, old one was half steel and wood and very hard to remove. 

 

I am shit scared of starting the new motor, got to get hold of a pressure pre lube tool to prime the oil pump and  gallery’s, engine builder sed run it at a fast idol for 20 mins and keep the rpm  changing 

[SOHC]

I need some help here, the clutch springs hit the flywheel bolts by about 0.5mm.

the friction shit is 2mm to the top of the countersunk rivits and the bolts heads are 8.4mm tall,  so if I had some low profile flywheel bolts I think it would fix the problem? I had to take the sump off and gasket tore witch is annoying