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SOHC’s 27 Ford RPU


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I ended up butchering the VDO speedo a bit, I tried to re calibrate it by adjusting the spring bit now it goes to about 35 MPH and stops, I damaged the bezel to, it’s a hunk of shit like the the SW gauges,  I have a cople smiths speedos, the big one would connect right to my cable but is it too big? And I have one from a motorcycle but cable needs an adapter, I started making one but couldn’t get the thing to run concentric.

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The VDO speedo has a 18mm BSP or something thread, I soldered a blumbing fitting onto my adaptor and lengthened it a bit by brazing the end up, also brazed on a tube for the light bulb, I think I need one of those step up gearbox things for the speedo witch won’t work with this adapter, why is everything so fucking difficult?? Non of the speedos o want to use have normal fittings.

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Broke the pick up tube but but I have some that didn’t have the tube from factory so will use one of them, friend pressed the new bushes in and gear on to the end of the oil pump shaft for me, and I sent the engine to someone he knows who can do everything from boreing the cylinders and grinding the crank and balance witch is good.

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I got another pick up from a rooted 21 stud engine I had, these old engines are coated in carbon all over on the inside like the inside of an exhaust but it’s stuck on like 2k paint and the smell is terrible, 

going to make an engine stand witch supports the engine from the exhaust port bolts as it’s very bad to hang the whole engine from the little bell housing bolts on such a thin casting.

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That’s the valiant oil filter I am running as a bypass filter, it will be 85% flow with the new motor, it’s tapped in next to the oil pressure gauge with a 50 thou jet to bleed off oil, then it returns to the sump, it’s not the best but that’s all they had apart from they had a cartridge type.

Tomorrow I will get some spacers parted off frown this hollow bar to put under the adjusters on the rear coil overs, I need a bit of extra preload on the rear shocks.

 

when I was underneath I think my diff is leaking out the front seal, I have never changed one of them, I want to do a front and rear seal in the trans to when the engine is out. 

 

Edit, spacer rings didn’t work but I made a better C spanners from a leaf spring and I got almost 20mm more and that has made everything better.

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I ordered a set of new front tires and took the car around to the shop when I did it, I thought he sed 5.80 15” but they are 5.60 15” pretty vague in the measurements, he had some 6.80 15” witch he sed the ones he ordered would be the same but a bit lower in the side wall, I went to pick them up and they are way too small, they are for a 3.5” rim not a 6”, and he is saying he won’t take them back as he got them in for me but I reckon it’s 80% his fault, I don’t know much about shitty old crosply tire sizing the tire width is all over the show.

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I need to make a quick decision now to change plans on my engine build, should I fit this crank witch uses modern style shell big end bearings and a positive rear main seal? I would have to change the rear seal plate in the block witch just sits in and is held in place by the sump and I will need to fit the later oil pump and buy a new seat of big end bearings. Or should I just run with the old full floating bearings? 

 

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Got a new ignition, I think I will grind out the rivets that hold the old ignition and mag switch in and mount it it’s place? I might move the amp gauge upto where the ford one is but I need to open the hole up, I am going to fit two temp gauges in the bezel below, one for each cylinder head as they are basically two separate cooling systems, Ford used 2 senders and one gauge somehow.

 

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Found something I made a long time ago when I planned to have 2 gauges in the middle of the dash, welded a washer in one side for the ignition, I will move the oil pressure gauge up next to the ignition and install the 2nd temperature gauge down below. It would actually look cool if I set all the gauges in the dash but I cannot be bothered, 

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