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Bananaman's Ke20 Rebuild


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  • 2 weeks later...

So not much to see here but I did manage to get all the supplies I need to complete my test wiring of the tail lights. So here is one of the finished light holders.

Learned all the pitfalls of using this wire / plug / sheathing which is good because I don't want to make any mistakes on the balance of the car wiring.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So made a wee bit more progress. Unfortunately I don't get the time I would like on this build but still.

So number plate lights out for a refresh and LED treatment. Look amazing attached to the bumper, once removed and stripped down it is a different story.

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Actually writing under there.

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Next up was the boot loom. Dealing with lighting only on this loom. Tail lights, numberplate lights, hi stop, and untilize the factory earth which wasn't being used when I stripped the car :/

All ready to be terminated.

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  • 1 month later...

So not the most lush update but the rear wiring loom is in and the light quality is some much better.

Wiring images up first. Jiffy plugs, these things are awesome.

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All terminated

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Installed.

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Light quality so good.

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Fuel catch tray, work in progress.

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  • 3 weeks later...

More wire stuff. So to make an omelette first you must break some eggs. So trials first, glad I did.

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I have just about completed the first section of the engine wiring. Feeling pumped.

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Also picked up some weld on AN fittings and top radiator return block from Taarks for the cooling system. More on this later.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Intentionally overlooking the update surrounding the -an conversion for the cooling system as I have struck a problem. I am currently looking at options to get the top hose to fit in the limited space I have available. Will update this aspect of the build once it is finalized and I actually have a solution.

Focus recently has been to get the intake manifold sorted, it was a custom fabricated item that was on the car when I first purchased the car. Looks good but in practice it has some issues.

Firstly, there is not a single boss welded on this manifold. Instead they opted to tap the 3mm alloy to attached the IAT, vacuum lines and throttle body. Will discuss one at a time.

1/ IAT. As noted in the previous posts it was right at the back of the intake manifold on the underside, not an ideal spot so I have had a boss welded on my intercooler pipe right before the throttle body. Win. However this now leaves a hole in the intake manifold. Plan is to weld a boss on from EFI Solutions in Australia which will give me a series of vacuum lines so I can get that side of things sorted. Aiming to convert all vacuum lines to push-lok fittings to keep things easily maintained.

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2/ Existing vacuum lines, now that I have a new location tucked under the intake manifold for these to come out from I need to weld over the back of the intake manifold. It was a mess! Once parts arrive to weld on I will update with finished pics. For now this is what it looks like.

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3/ Throttle body. Now this has a number of more serious issues which have arisen over the few years I have had this car. Now that I have stripped it all down it is apparent where they come from. Firstly the mounting of the throttle body to the intake manifold. Again no Boss used, BUT the surface of the manifold is not even flat. It would seem they made the end plate for the intake to suit the throttle body then welded it on with no consideration of the weld lifting the throttle body itself. This has created a leak at the two lower bolt heads as seen in these pics.

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Not the end of the world. But I am having a new adaptor plate machined so that it can be welded on the intake and will also incorporate a o-ring seal between the adaptor and throttle body. Pics when it is made and on to follow.

The more serious issues, the throttle butterfly could move almost 10° without the throttle being pressed. This resulted in the car revving upto 3500RPM when stopping at lights or even on deceleration it continued to rev. Not ideal.

Turns out it was the cap screw on the right of this picture. The head has bottomed out on the throttle linkage and hasn't even threaded far enough to hold the shaft the butterfly attaches to. 

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Fixed, proper fitting grub screw that is fully secure. Maximum satisfaction.

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Next was the TPS, it was also held on with cap screws that had a head too small to locate it where it was supposed to be. When the car was dyno'd the first time my tuner @ross discovered the problem where the TPS was bottoming out on the underside on the throttle body housing resulting in the tps staying a WOT. (clearly this leads to some excitement when you climb up the car then jump off the pedal only to find it isn't slowing at all) Correct hardware securely fixed and the problem is solved.

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Proper hardware for those two fixes owes me a grand total of around 0.35cents. Hard to believe you wouldnt fix those at the beginning.

So once the boss parts arrive I will have them welded on and update intake progress. For now I have an engine crane on loan to remove the engine and gearbox ready for the engine bay overhaul.

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  • 1 month later...

So bit of a better update for those following.

Firstly, the exhaust manifold. Let me start by saying unlike just about every other build I have seen recently people seem to be chasing big HP numbers. That was never the intention of this build, I am trying to attempt to build a responsive fun daily car that I can throw around a track at a club day with mates. Not looking to win any races or smoke too many tires although it does a reasonable job of that at the moment.

So the exhaust manifold. I picked up the Sinco manifold a few months ago since it was something on the list but lack of research has meant I have had to replace it with another. The one I brought was a T3 flange with a 45mm external wastegate. I really wanted to put a gen2 garrett turbo on however the smallest Gen2 T3 flange was a 3071 which I deemed to big for my application. Instead I wanted to put a more modest 2867 which meets my power goals with enough up its sleeve to keep me in the efficiency range of the turbo. This is where the manifold now longer suits. The 28 frame garrett only has a T2x flange or a 2.5" Vband to attach to the manifold. To add to the this if you opt for the T2 flange you have to run the internal wastegate. 

Since Sinco dont do a 2.5" Vband on there manifolds it meant to stick with Sinco I have had to stay with the T2 flange and internal wastegate. For ease of installation I have gone down this road. 

So, now that I had made up my mind I brought the turbo and figured a turbosmart actuator will give me reasonable boost control for my mild street build.
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Next on the list was to sort the intake manifold pictured above. 
The first step was put the IAT sensor into the intercooler pipe rather than at the back of the intake manifold. This was the original location, simply tapped the sensor into the 3mm aluminium.
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Punched holes were drilled out for the new vacuum boss.
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Then since I moved the vacuum lines to under the intake I had to do something about the horrid assortment of once again tapped holes in the end of the intake. (SAD FACE)
After.
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And lastly the borage or issues that surrounded the throttle body. Mainly the fact that it didn't sit flush to the surface as mentioned in the post above with the other little issues. I had my good mate Shannon at PRO CNC Ltd knock me out a new flange complete with o'ring seal machined in.
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And another addition to my wiring tools I was stoked to get a nice new stop for my wire strippers. By eye is one thing, repeatable it awesome.

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  • 2 months later...

Been intentionally putting off the radiator update until I had a clear solution to my space restriction problem. Now I have an idea it is full steam ahead before I pull the engine out.

So plan is to make a fill pot like Nigels from ETS on his PS13. (pictured below)

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So I am gathering materials and will post some pictures up once I have it all welded up. Should look cool and be totally functional.

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Not much else happening with it just at the moment since I have other priorities but hoping to jump back into it soon enough.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Sometimes taking a car back to a blank canvas is a good idea. In my case this is a great idea.

From engine mounts that were finger tight to burnt out electrics I am happy to be at the turning point. Only dealing with paint in the engine bay and radiator support panel so it is off to the media blasters to strip it back very shortly.

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Some progress this weekend. (and some things I havent shared)

Cardboard aided design to water cut and painted engine lift hooks.

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Had to install my bulkhead connections before I get the bay stripped and fix the fuckup that the previous owner has created with what looks like a sledge hammer #facepalm

Before:

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After:

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