Popular Post yoeddynz Posted May 5 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 5 Flat six in Cut away under the seat base and the tunnel as per on the green imp. The air saw was so perfect for much of this job which means much less grinding dust everywhere. I've marked out where I'll cut away a little bit more. I'd rather give it extra clearance now than ending up with it potentially knocking against the steel on a bumpy road etc later. Cut off a couple of superfluous tabs sticking up on the transmission for the same reasons as above. Oh I also couldn't resist a photo of the two power plants next to each other. It's hard to gauge sizes from the pic though as the Datsuns wheely stand 2000 is much lower. 65 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post yoeddynz Posted 9 hours ago Author Popular Post Share Posted 9 hours ago Edit - I'm not sure what's wrong with the image links on this latest post. I may have to re-do them so tune in again tomorrow if they don't magically start working. Sealing up the cut out tunnel top and under the rear seat was to be the next stage but first I decided to make some new beefed up engine mounts. The originals I had made from a mixture of 3 and 4mm steel were probably fine but i wanted to move the crossmember backwards away from the engine for a little bit more clearance. So while I was at it I thought it best to use thicker steel. I first made a jig to which the original mounts bolted to. Now I had datum points to build the new mounts to while allowing for extra clearance while I was at it. I popped into G3 engineering where I get a lot of my steel offcuts from and grabbed some 4mm plate. I had 5mm at home for the main backing plates. Used the heafty steel bender.. Tigged the majority of the welds except the inside ones I couldn't reach which got mig welded. Plenty of heat. These wont fail. Added gussets just to be sure... Now with the new mounts I set the engine in place, crossmember sitting further back by about 5mm than it was with the old mounts. I could now drill the holes through the chassis rails. I made up a new pair of backing plates to suit, this time extending forwards to suit the forward holes to that are there for the Datsun crossmember. I can now easily bolt in either crossmember. I was super happy to discover that due to the flat six being only 3 cylinders long I have enough room to pull the engine back so its gearbox bobbins are clear of the gearbox cross member, then raise the car up and away from the engine, all without having to remove the rear bumper and valance. Now the engine was in its final position I could replace the lid on the tunnel, 50mm higher. I started with this bit, having to cut out a section to allow for access to the gearbox speedo sensor plug... Making sure there was ample clearance all round so the box cant knock the tinwork on rough roads I preceded to box the tunnel back in... Kneeling down on folded up bits of foam and towels was my home for the next few hours... Cardboard trials, then steel, cut, trim, tack, check, weld... Finally boxed in. Another access hole let in so I can get to the top universal joint and lube the gearbox selector shaft. It was a very good part of the build to finish. Seeing it all sealed up, strong again. I have yet to check the rear seat squab but I feel confident it'll fit with some modifications to the wire frame within. Underneath looked neat... Hannah has now painted the tunnel inside and out with Epoxy paint. After I have finished any other little fabrication bits or hole filling/drilling in the engine bay I'll give it a flick of blue paint (hopefully not making everything else in the workshop blue like the first time) Now it was onto the rear suspension arms. I am using the set that came on the green imp 2. Surface rust needed wire brushing off outside... Painted with KBS rust seal (Aussie por 15 clone).. Another bit I could have got away without doing but I thought best to make while I'm under the car was this brace... Pulling up tight to the floor via spreader plates under the seat base... I have added it to really tie the floor halves together so keeping the suspension mounts inline during hard corning, so avoiding any self steering. Its a bit ugly but hey, its hidden under the car. On the subject of bracing I also made this little brace... To help stiffen the top of the tunnel near the shifter so it doesn't flex. again, not really needed but I do want a really positive shift action without an excess movement. So now my next job is to run out the brake/clutch/fuel pipes back along the tunnel and then reassemble the rear suspension so I can setup the handbrake cables. I'll have to paint some bits too. The crossmember, mounts, fuel tank etc. The work area looks like this with bits everywhere... In other news I had these turn up yesterday... My older brother who lives in Wales had gone to a big local collectables/toy and model show local to him. He then spent a good amount of time asking at the various collectors stalls for any Hillman Imp models and found what is quite a rare and sought after Dinky toy car... Plus a cool little Imp police car .. They turned up in the post yesterday as a surprise and made our evening. Very cool. Thanks bro! 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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