Popular Post azzurro Posted February 19, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 19, 2023 18 months since last update, Not too much has happened. Its pretty reliable, sits outside on the driveway and starts first pop. it goes to the dump every couple of months, and we use it to get compost and dirt for the garden. Gets used harder than your average Ranger The Direzzas on the meshies have gone hard and started sidewall cracking, so I repainted these 14" 131 steelies and fitted some spacers on the rear. I like the colour. Moar Dirt Another load of Green waste Next job is probably redoing the pinstripe (ive had the stuff for over a year) and maybe looking into getting some pink stripe sticker/kicking rad graphix made up to fill the gaps either side of the doors. The brakes could probably do with a going over too (i think a caliper or two is sticky). 31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post azzurro Posted July 2, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2023 Drove this on some errands the other day and then my 125 and was reminded how different they are in terms of drivability despite being pretty similar set ups The 125 sedan has a 2 litre twin cam with twin 40 deloorrtos, and its smooth around town and has torque like an electric car, This wee truck on the other hand has a 1598cc twin cam with twin weber 40 dcoes, but it's never run quite right on any carb set up ive tried especially flakey at low speed, off idle etc, and no amount of carb fiddling would get a smooth idle, and not as much torque i would expect (accepting the 2l vs 1.6 makes a big difference) and an annoying tappet noise i could never shim out. So kicked Little Blue out onto the driveway with the van (update coming soon) and drove the ute into the cave for some engine work. --- When i tidied up the engine in the truck a few years back - and put a new 'big valve' head on along with the cams that came in it as per this post ... I should have swapped out the cams then for any number of good standard ones i had (still have) , but i didnt, i guess thinking it might be a hot cam or some such, hoping it was not just a crappy regrind So anyway, finally dug out my box of cams and cam boxes - most factory cams are pretty similar profile - but there is a nice set of late model 132 2l cams in a pair of boxed id cleaned, greased and regasketed when i got them ages ago in anticipation of eventually getting round tuit Time to dive in - cam covers off, can see the shims and buckets Cam boxes and buckets off, showing the valves ' Reground cam boxes on the bench - can see how the regrind reduced the base circle, and these are early 'narrow lobe' cams too, i measured ~8mm lift There is no obvious damage or wear (probably only driven a few 1000km since new), and while i didnt really measure anything (nor do i have the tools or patience to do it properly) i think just from feel the ramp is a lot flatter to me seems like they would 'slap' like a rolling triangle rather than smoothly roll like the eggier shape of the factory ones (which would explain the noisy tappets) and could be imagining it but i suspect the lobe points not all exactly 90 deg from the others making one cylinder (or more) not quite perfectly in time with the ignition and cylinder which would also explain the choppy idle and poor running generally - crappy warranty regrinds... Looking back up through the cam bucket guide at later 'wide lobe' cams (note how the cams just clear the buckets), probably ex a 2 litre 132, with ~9.5mm lift relative to base circle - what looks like rust is my copper rtv finger prints in the storage lanolin grease the shims for setting valve clearance (inlet 0.45, ex 0.5) are on the top of buckets, need a special tool to hold the buckets down, a pick and a magnet and sometimes the air gun to pop them out, as well as a bunch of shims Tiem to dig out the shim box! including special bucket holding down tool, specially bent and ground down screwdriver/pick for poking the shims out of the bucket, and handy dandy magnet. as you can tell from my collection, most standard scenarios are in the 4.00 to 4.20 range, the ground cam i took out were in the larger end Set all the clearances - following my 'foolproof' system... As above its a bit of a faff to adjust the valve clearance, not so much the actual swapping different thickness shims on the cam bucket, but mostly the admin of rotating the cam shafts and fiddling with a bunch of quite different tools - verniers and 19mm spanners at the same time. A bit easier with teh cam belt off and pistons at half mast, but still a faff. rotate camshaft so lobe is pointing away from shim surface Measure the gap with feeler gauges, largest able to fit without forcing (say 0.65mm), write it down calculate required shim size target on these cams is 0.45 inlet and 0.5 exhaust, so if our gap is 0.65 the gap is 0.20 too big for the inlet cam, measured gap MINUS target gap = the difference from the current shim you need, positive = thicker to close the gap, or negative value means you need a thinner shim to open up the gap. required shim that is the current shim (4.05) PLUS the difference (+0.20) = 4.25 in shim collection (if we needed a thinner shim, 4.05 plus -0.20 = 3.85) Rotate cam shaft so cam is pushing bucket/valve down, insert special tool, rotate a bit more so tool holds the bucket down, dig out the old shim shim with a pick, and a magnet, a blast of shop air will pop most of them if they are vacuumed in install new shim, write down size in book rotate camshaft to release cam tool see step 1 Proof of how simple it is, i think i did each valve at least twice, one up to 5 times Next day, tuning Fired up first time and a lot quieter, and even idled from cold. Thats better than its ever done (it had always needed some throttle feathering before) After adjusting the ignition timing and good 2 hr fiddle with the Manometer, ir thermometer on the exhaust and teh wideband i even as i've ever got them. Dropped the idle jets down to 50s (from 55s) before, should be on 45s for an engine of this capacity Managed to drop the idle to (a stated) 900 at 13-14AFR, previously wouldn't run smooth under 1200, at about 11.5-12AFR but also have a mean lean spot off idle (plugs were pretty dark before) Seems to run a lot better now, need to give it a run on my 'test track' to see if it actually is, but i decided probably not ideal weather for fiddling with carbs on the side of the road today 25 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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