Ashkellybarr Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Picked up a set of sw20 E series axels pretty cheap from a bloke in Cambridge that was building a 3sgte corona Reason being that with the e58 I'll need a ae101 left and a sw20 right side. The axels aren't from an LSD model though so they might need a bit modding The LSD axels have a slightly longer spline going into the gear box on the drivers side. This I'm told is to hold into a plate inside the diff, and if I used a non LSD axel in an LSD box it wouldn't be held by the plate so no LSD function gets used. How ever, I'm told by very reliable bloke, and this surprised me, he just uses an angle grinder to cut the spline longer anouther 5mm and puts it ons lathe to take the seal seat back 5mm and it's good to go. I'm told it's cold forged so wouldn't be easy on a lathe but if it's like the selector shaft once I grind threw 2-3mm it should be soft as butter and could tidy up the seal surface on a later then Now, why don't I just buy some LSD axels??? Because you can't. No one wants to sell them and guys that are selling them in the states are selling them for +$850 Custom billit ones are 1100 I picked these up complete with CV's and stubs for 150 Winning 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Mild for the ma61 flares are done so I can start pumping out guards witch is good Had some trouble with my rear struts. They had ceased between the main thread and the strut base that mounts to the hub so I couldn't adjust ride height. Had to pull them out, managed to get them to move with some brute force witch was very lucky!! Took everything completely off the thread (lock rings and base) and cleared it up then hit the whole thing with this stuff call TAC-2. I used it on my rear tie rods when I did them (even though their stainless they still cease) Pretty good stuff, chain lube but it's water resistant so is good for adjustable arm etc they see weather. Finished refurbishing the rear bumper iron and threads, clips, nuts on it so that's ready to go back on. Managed to have a good clean out of the garage and car so it's looking pretty good to start get it road going again. Sorry for low qul photos, off my phone in crapy light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Mold for the ma61 flares are done so I can start pumping out guards witch is good Had some trouble with my rear struts. They had ceased between the main thread and the strut base that mounts to the hub so I couldn't adjust ride height. Had to pull them out, managed to get them to move with some brute force witch was very lucky!! Took everything completely off the thread (lock rings and base) and cleaned it up then hit the whole thing with this stuff called TAC-2. Comes in a CNC spray can I used it on my rear tie rods when I did them (even though their stainless they still cease) Pretty good stuff, chain lube but it's water resistant so is good for adjustable arms etc that see weather. Finished refurbishing the rear bumper iron from rust and its threads, clips, nuts. So that's ready to go back on Managed to have a good clean out of the garage and car so it's looking pretty good to start get it road going again. Sorry for low qul photos, off my phone in crapy light Also picked up a new motor for the next project You can see it next to my shelving 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Achilles 123S 195/45/R15 front Toyo T1R 235/50/R15 rear Would have liked 205/45 on the front but I got the Achilles for 125 so I couldn't say no. Might actually get this bad boy back on the ground. Have the next 11 days off do I'll be able to get some good hours into it and finish up all the little side quests Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Gonna need a flat jack. And to do something about them pesky rear guards 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 More progress on the carbon and fibre glass panels too. Mold for the MA61 front guards turn out to be more of a mosh then I thought, having to brake away the over hang off on purpose to crack the seal between them. I'll try build up the sides again and touch up the gell coat but it's a lot more rough then I would like. That and the already flaky paint on the panel has come off.. Bugger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Final chop is done on the bonnet so it'll be ready to flip tomorrow Before I pull the plug I'm gonna give the hang over a good smooth coat of gel coat so I if I choose the do a vacuumed form carbon one I have something to seal to. There molds better then I thought. Will be picking up the other on off face some time this week to get started on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Pulled and done. Gotta build up the sides now. Reason I didn't tape cardboard onto the bonnet before making the mild is I've done that before and it lecked under, then when I tried to pull it there was to much of a lip and it cracked the mold. I've started masking it up and I'll go around the build up the edges. Being such a flat panel it's got quite a bit of flex so I'll flip it over and sit it back on the plug and fix some tiber to the back of it. For that ive picked up some 10mmx60mm stuff you use for the finishing of the bottom of walls 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 Progress 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) Little bit more progress. going threw what to retain and what won't need to be retained. couple differences like the preface lift engine lid catch is off set. witch is good as it needs to be to clear the intake manifold. nots: chrome button thing marks centre on red car http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hnciv0xq.fdu.jpg facelift centred http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=acjwxqsi.dxj.jpg  so I'll need to unstitch the mount on the white one and swap them over engine lid is facelift SC witch from factory are supercharged. as a pose to modding my mint one I'll make to with the one off the red car. Probably cut more out and re do the fibre glass to look factory and pretty Other thing is the rear fire wall between the rear boot and bay. would be nice to simply cut the one out of the red car and weld it into the white one but I'll run it pass the certifier as I'd hate to get caught out. http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=mhevydvu.rq2.jpg  the rest is just time needing to be spent. Remove everything, clean the living shit out of it, paint is gloss black. Maybe some gold NASA looking heat foil shit on the engine side. i want to retain the evap and charcoal can as well so that will all go back on http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=hadhaoc2.uno.jpg  Edited April 23, 2017 by Ashkellybarr Forgot how to add photos from iforce ffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 Oh yeah, I'm not putting the 7AGTE into it anymore btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share Posted June 9, 2017 So the 4agze came out a while back. The v6 swap is under way.  when I bought the donor car the wiring in it was pretty av and just a get it going sort of setup. think the plan was to get it running and certed then work away at it. By nature once it was running none of it was taken further and enjoying the car was the frame of mind from then on.  for me, once the motors in I don't want to pull it out again. that said, it's gone from "riding wiring" and tiding up the engine bay. To me wanting to do it properly as I wish the car to be as the final product, as I know once it's done I won't want to deal with it again.   so I've pulled the entire loom apart. Cutting all the rear wiring open, and from the rear strut back it's literally just the tail lights and number plate wiring. feeds back to the ecu have been cut at the engine loom plugs and labeled and pulled all the way back threw past the fuse box to the cabin. Some of witch wil become redundant, others like "engine check" light and rpm input will be intergrated into out puts on the new ECU. ecu is link G4+ xtreme. Witch is sitting here. I've got most of the link loom sorted and labeled ready for the lump to go in to get lengths for fitting off.  sorting IO list Atm, couple unusual things like having rad fan plus engine bay cooling fan. Mr2's have factory fans in the vents to push hot amibiant air out of the bay.  so I've got extra relays etc to order/wire. wanting to do it right I'll finish up the wiring diagrams and get the elect engineer at work to put them into a pro format to keep with the car  photos are crap sorry but know you guys request photos because Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share Posted June 9, 2017 For hype, here some photos of Aw11 drag cars from 1991 when drag racing started taking off in jap, and most popular chassis for it was a 240z  under the miffker those are duel waste gates 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 With the weather I've turned to the inside project witch has been lacking attention. cleaned back sureface rust. removed brackets and other random things from the engine bay I won't be needing. ill do some small stitch welding to tie it up better around the struts and c pillars towards the b pillars  ivr got some seam sealer and black 2k paint on order to once that's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Made up a power supply for the ECU's I'm setup for the cars. had some maps sent to me from another guy running G4 and have started swapping the maps etc over to the G4+ firmware. opening up the G4+ extreme black ECU is pretty awesome, also pretty overwalming. the amount of options and things influencing maps is pretty fanominal and I've definitly got a lot to learn and work threw.  happy I've got it powered up to start before I've waited to get it wired in, definitely help kill some down time before it goes in.  other news I've got a new set of enkei rpf1's on their way. i finally pulled the ma60 F type gaurs out of the mould. Unfortunitly the gel coat didn't bond properly and the mould fucked out and fell apart on separation so I've got some work to do to get that done also. hopefully soon as I'll be in Aus and the states for work for a while and I've had poor davids gaurd for two years now so should really get it back to the bloke soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Â Be staying in Auckland for a while hopefully so can start to smash this out. before anything else can go ahead I need to figure out what to do with the rear fire wall. This being the wall between engine bay and rear boot. Â on the donor car it's been boxed out and a panel made. im hoping to do the same but am waiting to hear back as I feel how it's done will be at the certifiers descrestion and the donor being certed some 6-7 years ago I'm no sure it'all fly. Â my idea is to weld box tube (30x70mm or something) along point 1. Then box the rest out under it. ive messaged Clint so hopefully he's not to busy to spare some time and have a look. Â i had a look under 155-30(02) and 155-40(02) and the wall doesn't fall under frontal or interior zone B or C so I'm guessing it's at the certified descretion of structural integrity?? Â after that it's find/borrow/rent a compressor to paint the engine bay and rear boot, do this before I put the motor is as I know I won't want to take it out again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Spare shoes from the states.  belive it or not it worked out over $500 cheaper to get them from that states then from jap.  even though their made in Japan and then shipped to the states...  15x8 +28mm 5.2kg each 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Making room for another cyl head. hopefully finish fab over the next week and can start looking st painting 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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