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mlracing 1971 Skyline 2000GT Sedan (Hakosuka)

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Installed new cap but still really difficult to start when cold, takes 5 mins at least of cranking, stop, check etc. Usually cranks after I get the battery jump pack so perhaps battery is poor. Or spark is poor from coil? Once warmed up she's all good. I've also learned some of the Z cars use an electric pump to prime the mechanical one, could be a fuel problem perhaps taking too long for fuel to get to the mechanical pump as I'm pretty sure no electric pump in this.

This is what the dizzy looks like, guessing still points? Sorry, old old car stuff is still new to me.

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I've read about the ignition upgrade and some people are saying use later 280ZX distributor and some other bits, still not quite confident on what's required there.. more research required.

Also, quick vid of idle when it's warm. Sitting around 900rpm here, not super smooth though >_<

https://vid.me/qTDu

I'll look at a new coil next because not sure when depot one will arrive/it's not new anyway.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-5#entry1613852

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Arts and crafts time!

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The black paint on these light surrounds was peeling off and looking a bit average so I decided to fix that.

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While I was there I painted the front grille as well, slightly differently to the OEM just to see how it would turn out. The reason I didn't just take out the honeycombs and the middle emblem is because everything was seized in. Being a Friday afternoon I didn't feel like fighting it so.. in it stayed.

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Finished! I didn't leave out the 2000GT badge on purpose, just forgot to put it back on haha. Probably leave it off though. I'd like to get in and polish the metal at some stage as it's quite cloudy and average but overall it's pretty average. Probably needs to go to some fancy metal guy to make it nice again. Oh, and need to paint the N in the middle of the badge red again as that's fully faded out.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1616009

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PARTS PARTS PARTS PARTS!

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Old filter out, new filter in. Just as well Nissan still make parts for old Datsun trucks! Big up to Brdflu for hooking that up for us.

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Wow.. reasonable chance this is the OEM coil that came in the car when new. Could just be placebo but car feels easier to rev up to redline, still gutless but sounds sweet. Also at about 6k vibrations start to happen so that's as far as I went.

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Car did a shart. I was feeling all awesome about having installed the coil so went to crank it over.. after cranking over longer than probably should have the car didn't start. Hm.. quick glance out saw the coil lead sitting on top of the radiator, derp! After the engine got over the fact that it was now flooded it cranked up to life and business as usual.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1616009

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Arts and crafts time again! Something that was bothering me for ages is the N emblem on the front was all faded out. Picked up some basic model/craft paint during the week and thought I'd have a poke about and get it looking nicer.

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Turns out it looked way nicer just with a bit of a clean with some solvent.. but still not vivid enough for me.

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It took me ages to work out how I was going to do it with masking off so I could minimise the paint on the chrome. Ended up making a hash of it anyway but this is the first lot I did, and that turned out all good.

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Then this is the second lot and I couldn't figure out how to mask the inner bits so just gave up and made a mess. Quite a bit of the paint seemed to bleed through that paint tape but I managed to clean up the majority of it afterwards with some ear bud things and solvent.

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Finished product.. it's not super sharp around the edges but stand a few feet away and she's magic.

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Just brings that bit of something to the front where it was all silver/black before. Next I have to figure out the best way to refurbish the 2000GT badge on the front.. or maybe just leave it off for a while because I realised painting is quite hard.

Also the front lip bugs me. I'm pretty sure it's warped somehow but it is flat on the bottom so hard to tell. Oh well, problem for another day.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1620756

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Picked up this Nardi woodgrain wheel for a price I couldn't resist as was looking for something larger than the Momo that was on there in order to see the gauges properly (couldn't see water temp, somewhat important).

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With a bit of fettling it's on, and looks perfect. Feels really nice to hold, I've never had a woodgrain wheel before. Also took this opportunity to straighten the boss as the previous owner for whatever reason had the wheel on a slight angle which bugged me to no end. Now I need to get some repair parts for the centre console to get it back to it's former glory.

When I took that photo from the driver's seat it reminded me of this one I took a little over 3 years ago at Rocky Auto:

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It was never a matter of IF I would own one.. but a matter of when!

Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1627841

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I had some tyres that needed to be removed from the car because they had cracks all through them, surprised they hadn't blown out! Luckily I had some already from other wheels. All different brands/models because I like to live dangerously. Also the sizes slightly different (two 175, two 185) so put the 185's on the rear, naturally. While I was under the car I had a look at the rust and repair places that will need to be fixed up. Some really awesome Japanese typical body panel repair jobs involving urethane, silicone, cardboard (or plastic) and metal tape. Just the usual.

The good thing (but maybe expensive) is that inner/outer sills are available as well as a couple other common failure points as repair parts. Not genuine Nissan of course but a couple restore companies are reproducing them which is excellent.

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They were all like this, and also had cracking inside the tread too.

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New (old) tyres on.. I think there are some from China and some from Korea, quality.

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So much room for activities.

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Bit of a shitty look at the stainless exhaust. It's loud.

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Hmm those could be a problem. I had a feeling it was on cut springs after driving it. The rear actually is captive so that should be OK, but the front is no bueno, will look at upgrade options because the shocks look pretty average too.

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Looks like a bolt missing from there... and interesting exhaust hanger situation.

Talk: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-6#entry1631496

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I'm still out of country not getting back until next week but I had these come through from depot during the packing of the container (which will be here shortly as well)..

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It's got a busted bottom end apparently, but block should still be OK. The boys also tell me it has a big cam but not sure spec on anything.

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So previous owner debadged the lot and removed a bunch of trim. This is common as GT-R doesn't have the same kind of trim as the lower models and people try to go for this look. Being that mine is not a GT-R and not trying to be, I want to put the trim and badges back.

Only problem is the previous owner covered over the holes which are typically used to hold on the badges etc Deciding what to do but I may just use tape to hold most of them on as a few of the mounting prongs are damaged anyway. Still deciding..

Also my bonnet cable is missing the handle so picked up another one of those to fit! The badges will need some restoration anyway so will need to research the best way to go about doing that.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-7#entry1646412

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Gave the badge restoration a go. Restoration is probably a pretty loose way to describe it but I gave them a recolour. For the GT badges just used a blue Vivid, probably didn't quite turn out as I'd like, not really dark enough so I might get some blue model paint to do those at some stage. For the SKYLINE badge I used some model paint and tried to use a while paint pen to get the white bits but I think it was almost drying before it even got out of the nozzle so that didn't quite work out. May get some white model paint at some stage too but probably will be OK for now.

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Did a couple of small bits the other day, decided to see why my wiper motor was not really doing a good job and install the rear emblem as well as finally put on the hood latch handle thing.

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So basically when I got the car it didn't have a proper handle connected to the wire to pull the bonnet latch so what I ended up doing is getting this washed and knob setup there which was ok but still difficult.

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Most excellently I found a whole wire on Yahoo but as it turned out I could just unscrew the handle bit and screw it onto my current wire which was great because it looked quite difficult to get the other one out.

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Next up I attached the emblem that I sort of reburbished just using some double sided tape (the kind used to attach wings and such) so that isn't going anywhere. Looks sweet! Also mocked up the black bit there but I still need the trims that go along the top and bottom then I can attach it on there properly. Still debating whether or not to get a badge for it, probably will.

Next step rip into the wiper motor.. so what happens is when the wipers are on the windscreen it has one speed, slow. Despite having multiple actual speeds available (slow and slightly less slow). My first port of call, the switch. Sometimes people jump the switch if there's a problem or do some different wiring or wahtever. Definately some.. typical wiring jobs under here..

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This one, twist and taped (and a gear boot which is broken that I have another one on the way).

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This one, casual wire just hanging around.

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This one, some kind of twist and tape splice method, appears regularly.

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Old mate twist (no tape even on this one).

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This is what I mean about the twist and tape splice method.. sans tape.

Anyway after all that I did another test with the wipers not on the windscreen and it does change speed so I think the motor is just old and worn out and can't put through the power it needs. So I've got a couple of choices here.. I can take it out and see if it can be revamped somewhere or get a different one. I've been told that S13 ones may be able to work so I'll investigate both options. Also I got rid of a bunch of redundant wiring that I suspect was for the head unit/navi that was probably there before.

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Also I thought the car may have been red before and repainted to silver.. now I wonder if it's always silver and the floor was just red? No idea really.. probably had some shitty rust repair done on the floor before and maybe it's a coating or something.

Yarns: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-7#entry1646412

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Latest parts container has arrived so I went down for a nosey before the stuff gets delivered to our dispatch facility. Picked up a few things (Heaps of Boss coffee in stock now for anyone that's interested). There was a nice box that said my name on it and look what's inside!

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Ohhh, ahhh. Mikuni Solex 40s. Come off the L28 that is also in the container. I'm told explicitly not to open them up as they're setup and run perfectly for L28 with big cam on stock bottom end. Super happy the throttle linkage has the adapter on it for cable too, makes life so much easier as mine uses cable not linkages like the twin carb ones.

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Also these came in the box, some ancient MSD system. Looks pretty full on, not exactly sure how this would be set up or if I'll use it but will investigate that further down the line.

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Also these old as electric fuel pumps, neat! They look well used that's for sure.

Shit yarns: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49704-mlracings-hakosuka/page-7#entry1660864

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