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Maxteds 1969 mazda B1500


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gearbox is back in, 4.3 diff in, round port exhaust manifold on and new hanger bearing.

Drives so much nicer no rattles or whines from the gearbox now, so much quieter without the exhaust leak and the manifold, the hanger bearing has got rid of 90% of the vibration and the diff has dropped the revs down at 100ish enough to happily to sit on that (have a tacho to hook up and see what its doing).

will possibly get the driveshaft balanced next to see if can get rid of it completely, but it doesn't really bother me at all now.

have some near new 185r14c tyres I think might try on it to drop the revs slightly more and see what its like. 

would happily daily drive it now, flew through a wof yesterday to sit parked up for a month. 

hopefully over the next four weeks will tidy up the disc brake set up off the courier and get them ready to go on. might have a go at painting the dash now that Alex has plated the ugly hole that was cut in it. 

while it was up on the hoist for the wof I got a photo of the driveshaft line its slightly offset, anyone know if this is fine? I'm pretty sure I've seen other old cars with the tail shaft of the gearbox further offset from the diff than this but they may have been single piece driveshafts.

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pulled the front off to see the differences between the 1600 and 1500 fronts, I transferred the mounting points for the top trim and put some rivnuts in, the 1600 headlight trim mount and outer headlight fouls the 1500 top trim from sitting into place. Then after looking at how twisted the top trim is thought I would leave it for now and carry on tiding up the other pieces and try find a better top trim or maybe look at making a mould to make a fibreglass top trim, Can buy them but quite pricey at 300 usd plus postage.

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After putting the front back together, thought I should look into getting the disc brakes ready to go on. stripped them down ready to clean up. 

will compare top and lower arms next to see if need to use the 2nd gen ones.

list of parts needed and part numbers for reference

brake pads - JB-F50FF / DB292

Wheel bearings - outer 30204 inner 30206

rotors measured 20.2 ish and the min is 19mm so might just skim these for now and track down some new rotors can put on later.

will clean up the booster/extension tube, has a 13/16 master. hopefully not to much to fit the tube with just adding some new holes in the fire wall.

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had a look at mounting the booster and master cylinder today, the tube that spaces the booster away from the firewall is going to need some modifications or make another to suit the existing master cylinder bolting pattern, spoke to a mate who has just recently done the swap he sent me a photo of his set-up (attached photos), he modded his tube to step down to a smaller size tube big enough for the booster rod but small enough to work with firewall bolt pattern. Im thinking of completely remaking it using the smaller tube and bracing it either end and support it similar to how it was in the 2nd gen courier with a mount of the inner guard

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After a bit of comparing I've found the drum hub and disc hub are the same apart from the top balljoint tapered hole being bigger in the 2nd gen and the thread being different for the wheel bearing nut/split pin. The drum backing plate and the disc backing plate (has caliper bracket mounts as part of it) use the same bolt flange, and the wheel bearings are the same. 

So I can keep my arms and steering and just bolt on the disc backing plate, calipers, rotors/hub.

done some measuring and it looks like I need to copy my mates booster tube,  I'm just not going to shorten mine as much as his so I can still remove the clutch master cylinder without having to remove the booster.

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Modified/made the booster spacer/bracket, just need to get it welded now, really should get a mig. bit slow making the holes with the drill then grinding out with a burr atleast wont see them. started cleaning up the disc backing plates ect ready for some paint.

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made a start cleaning up the bits needed for the disc swap, The booster spacer is welded, need to shorten the booster rod by 20mm and drill and tap it. Just painting everything for now, I almost have enough spares of most thing's I'm thinking of dropping a set of arms, backing plates ect off to get powder coated and swap it all out at a later date.

Just need to clean up the booster and finish painting everything.

This week hopefully can go get a caliper kit and some new hoses/pads and have a go at swapping it all in. 

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Calipers have been sandblasted and given a lick of paint.  Have new pads and caliper kits, hope to put the kits in the calipers over the weekend and get the master back on. 

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Calipers back together and on, need to put master on tomorrow and give it all a bleed, also removed the blocks from the rear going to put standard springs back in the front and have a measure up to see what need to lower the front to make it sit level and have some suspension travel again. 

Have pulled the seat out and removed the heater in preparation of having access to re-wire and also tidy up the floor and firewall, I pulled the factory sound deadening from the firewall as it was pretty manky so going to give it a wire brush and paint, need a couple of small holes patching in the floor going to borrow a mates welder and have a crack at it. Found a spot in the passenger foot well/under dash to mount the fuse box out the way as much as it can be, its quite a small cab not much room to tuck things out the way. Going to hide the headunit away too.

Anyone used a universal type of heater/demister? Im kind of keen to get rid of the massive one in there and find something smaller. 

 

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