robs30m Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 well made new lining for handbrake using a nylon weave backed rubber. peeled some layers off till it was the perfect size. cut and trimmed to factory specs. just need to rivet it on and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 heres it finished. test fitted and its perfect. factory specs thickness is 6.3mm. this is 6.7mm. just have to weld and redrill some linkage holes to remove excess play and I can refit. bled brakes after cleaning out master and removing some shims between master and mount to get pedal free play right, and they are finally mint! no need to pump once anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 well fitted handbrake and linkages. welded and slotted hole that j bolt goes through to stop the lining band tilting back when you pull the lever. works alot better and holds very strong. Still tilts slightly, need to weld and redrill the pivot hole I think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 well little update. replaced mild steel screws around windscreen with stainless. looks a lot better! also tested handbrake, and its holding better than it did stock! pics tell all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 sorry if photos don't show. went over my monthly bandwidth on photo bucket. should come back soon. will be using imgur from now on. [br][br][br] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) Edited September 22, 2013 by robs30m 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 23, 2013 Author Share Posted September 23, 2013 made new links for the rear stabilizer. increased size of bar to 20mm and drilled and tapped each end to accept 1/2" unc studs. still heaps of clearance for bush flex. just need some bushes. old links were stuffed, had to grind them off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 got a new 20" long resonator for the exhaust. it will hopefully deepen the tone nicely. fitting tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 ok got exhaust fitted and welded I did the cutting and fitting and a mate welded her up (cheers os lock drift). sounds deep and a bit quieter. love it. on throttle she roars ha. started coating exhaust in stove polish. This wont burn off as its a mix of graphite and carbon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 well just encountered my first major mechanical problem. I decided to remove transfer case to fix the seeping problem at the join to the gearbox. removed the rear cover to find the nut that holds the drive gear onto the main shaft has backed off and was rubbing against the rear cover. the locking washer tab was not bent over and the washer doest lock to the shaft. it was allowing the shaft to move forward and back about 5mm. This explains the trouble shifting up and down gears. I had blamed the syncos and thought they were worn out. I removed the top and side covers of the gearbox and inspecting them they are mint. the gears have sustained no damage luckily although there is some pitting on the edge of the input shaft gear. I have to get a large socket to remove the nut and remove the trasfer case. I can clean up the nut, make a new locking washer and should be good. luckily the nut hadnt worn the rear cover housing to much and hit the roller bearing that support the shaft. heres pics. I picking the trans will be a lot quieter lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 29, 2013 Author Share Posted September 29, 2013 heres pics showing end cap, transfer case and an inside view of transfer case. ill get better pics of that when its out. shows straight cut gears for low range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 got the transfer case out. its a heavy unit! but I managed it. all the gears and bearing look and feel perfect. theres no lip on the end of the output shaft. im sure its been over hauled at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 well decided to pull the transmission and check it over while I have the transfer case out. there is some pitting on a few teeth of second gear but nothing im going to stress about. first is worn on the engagement edge, expected that been a non synchro gear, but there is also a chip on the edge of one tooth. may look into ways to refurbish them if possible. bearings are ok but have pitting in places. ive already ordered these through work. second gear id and bush are mint. reverse idler shaft is mint , the idler gear bush is over top limit of tolerance so will look into that. its a little confusing as manual states if bush measures over 19mm replace yet next paragraph states to press in new bush and ream to 19.04 to 19.07! idler shaft bottom limit is 18.879 . thats a max service difference of 0.191 . my shaft is 18.98 and my bush 19.14 so 0.16 clearence. hmmmmm . also when ordering bearings, you can get standard tolerance or C3 which is slightly looser fit for high speed applications. its only minimal and all transmission specs I have found on other cars specify C3 for a given bearing. I can't find anything specific to the patrol though. the tiny extra clearence on C3 spec is to account for extra expansion from higer speeds. seems logical to me and general concensus is if in doubt go C3 as a bearing will tolerate a little extra clearence over to tight a fit. still have to get counter shaft and bearings out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 well got counter shaft out and bearings. got two of the new bearings , and the difference is amazing! i got NSK japanese made bearings, more exspensive but worth the extra cost. cant wait to drive her for the first time. i got a price on synchros , $140 +15% tax Nz. there is no stock in the country so im waiting to find out if they are available from Japan. im not going to replace mine. I have studied their operation and condition and they are fine. second gear side has a little more wear as i thought it would. the grooves are barely worn and these would get flatened as they wear. the front counter shaft bearing was a english make, so its been rebuilt before. just spent 2 hours cleaning up the engagement edge of first gear with a very fine stone. looks nicer. pics . 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Nsk 6305NR C3 counter shaft rear bearing 62 25 17 NSK 6307ZNR C3 Main shaft rear bearing 80 35 21 NSK 6208NR C3 main shaft front. 80 40 18 NSK NUP 205 counter shaft front. 53 25 15 Roller pin bearing. 26 of 2.99mm x 19.9 mm long. thats a list of bearings I got . the numbrrs underneath are measurements. the manual says NU205 for counter shaft front but the inner race isnt captive. ive swapped it for NUP205 as the bearing I pulled out was a captive inner race as in the inner sleeve cant move relative to the outer. . The needle bearings I don't have a part number just found through parts guy. oh and syncros. I did some research. mg synchros are the same design as ours. found this page. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt203b.htm it shows a pic of synchro wear and explains it well. the three tabs that locate syncro teeth to teeth on second or main as the taper matches the shaft speeds wear and no longer line them up properly leading to grinding. mine are worn. and I dont know if I can get them from Japan. but I have talked to an old engineer and he said they can be brazed and reshaped. im going to do this. heres a pic of wear. the tab should be the doghouse shape. my main shaft teeth and synchro teeth are fine luckily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 took clutch out to inspect as I wanted to replace the worn brass nuts that the thrust bearing contacts. its fairly worn just getting down to the rivets on pressure plate side. pressure plate is worn with surface cracking. this is gonna be a while getting replaced as funds permit. but worth doing since the gearbox will be mint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 ok heres before and after of pressure plate and flywheel. I used a 63mm carbide insert face mill. took off 0.1mm at a time on the pressure plate till it cleaned up all glazing and surface scratches. removed 1.4mm total off . took 0.2mm at a time off the flywheel and removed 0.6mm total. manual states a max of 1.58 can be removed from either. now I just have to wait for new clutch plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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