robs30m Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 painted chassis up front ready for the radiator to go back in. used hammerite paint to coat chassis as well as radiator. I like the finish it has. fitted radiator and air box then started her up fo the first time in a while! ran sweet no problems. need to get more hammerite to complete rest of chassis. hers pics. might paint air box with same, ill see. oh one annoying thing , my blue engine enamel burnt off the exhaust manifold. was rated for 500 degrees Fahrenheit. not enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 removed bumper to take off the two bits of box section the farmer had bolted/tack welded on to carry his spray boom. Gotta grind the tacks then clean the ends of the chassis up. need more hammerite! also gotta panel beat and weld up the two holes in the bumper. its original and very hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 so I removed sump to fix the seepage problem it had. also was interested to see how block was constructed. its very strong with the bearing saddle completely supported from each side by support members. used crc 260 gasket to replace the cork Origional. I swear by the stuff. I've used it many times and it holds up. I apply it and let it skin up before bolting down. There was a little sludge build up in bottom of sump, but surprisingly little for a old engine like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 took her to work today. runs well aside from some hesitation on acceleration when shes cold. Either plugs (ive replaced two of six only) or carby related. the copper attachment on carby is not factory. not sure why its on there. runs from main jet to top of throat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 well pulled top off carby cleaned out bowl and checked needle. looked good. checked main jet size, it says 135 . hoping this is correct. the po has brazed on a fitting to the main jet body and then ran the copper line to the top of the throat. it would draw fuel from the main jet. i cant think why you would do this. the tube is twice the size of the main jet. it will be flooding it when opening the throttle I believe causing the bogging Down . here's pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 ive been doing extensive study of the carburetor section of the manual. Its really detailed with exploded views and operating guidelines. It stumbles when you press the throttle say a 1/4 down then once revs rise a bit its fine. im sure its the tube dumping fuel as vacuum would be high at partial opening. it takes fuel from the back of the main jet. the mix will be extremely rich and not atomized in the air stream properly. the id of the tube is twice the size of the main jet. far too big. plus he had the accelerator pump jet facing the side of the throat instead of at the venturi where air speed is high and efficient atomization can occur. I have timing, dwell and point gap spot on. I use 95 octane petrol with a valve seat additive. I can revert to 91 as I dont think detonation is a concern with the low compression ratio and timing on. 91 does burn more efficient than 95 octane. ive capped the fitting and will test today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 well success! took her for a test drive. Running perfect now! no hesitation, smoother idle and smooth acceleration. decided to set valve clearance while I was at it. runs a little quieter now. im guessing the po thought dumping more fuel equalled more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 love this pic . bumper going back on tonight in prep for the Tauranga meet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 well modified exhaust - read chopped it just behind cab and removed muffler ha. loud as hell but a coby will hopefully tone it down a little without killing the awesomeness. sounds grunty ha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 sorted bumper. welded two pads on to cover holes and give it a bitvof character. just needs paint now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 here is a video of exhaust. love it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Got tired of the mechanical fuel pump running for no good reason and drawing power . made a blanking plate from aluminum. polished and fit with some sealant. also pulled brake master and clutch master to clean them up . gives me a chance to make that part of the engine bay look mint. brake master was immaculate internally. clutch master is full of black goo. teared it down just have to clean it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 sorted brake and clutch masters, refitted and ready to bleed. today got underneath and went hard with the wire brush. done it a few times now and finally got most of the dirt and grease off. chassis only has light surface rust in a few places, po had painted most of it in cold galv. prepping it ready to coat in hammerite. got all the excess grease off the drive train, was absolutely covered when I got it. bonus is this has preserved it from rust etc. heres pics of the trasfer case and gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs30m Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CLmx8KGm0yY 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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