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Flibois 20valve aw11


BlownCorona

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Mods - i can never remember if we class aw11s as 'oldschool' so feel free to move to other projects if required.

Discus - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=31474&p=771870#p771870

So i just finalised a deal with a 20v aw11. its done the bearings so this should be a great project with profit in the futer, at the very least a mentally fun car!

its got the factory front strut bar (apparently rare?) and a factory rear sway bar which is also pretty rare.

its the factory wind up window model and hard top, leading me to believe its meant to be the light weight model.

now to the fun bit, its got a silvertop 4age and a rebuilt 5spd box slotted in there, wiring is a bit messy but nothing i can handle!

photos from trademe at this stage, ill be picking it up this afternoon.

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Started on the engine today.

pulled the exhaust off then the sump and started stripping and baging all the conrod parts.

found that no.2 bearing had spun. however first impressions lead me to believe that the crank is still in great condition, and should be all good with a clean up and new bearings.

ive yet to strip down the main bearings to see if any of those spun, so more to come, with photos for those who haven't seen a crank before...

does anyone know if the ACL race bearings are a good option? aswell as the .001" extra oil clearance option?

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I have just developed this. the result of a shit ton of research into what makes this engine go.

Its a list of the minimum amount of things that need to be working to have the engine run (maybe a few extras, but better that than miss them out)

should enable me to trouble shoot my engine and get it going.

silvertoprequirementsjp.jpg

I guess if it works this could be added to tech articles if mods deem it a worthy contribution. but ill give it a test first.

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IT FUCKING RUNS!

thanks to all that helped.

after a few nights of research and getting my head around how the engine is wired (ive never really dealt with car any wiring at all) i was able to develop a table of essential systems that the engine needed and what the wires looked like and how they should behave.

This morning i quickly found that the 3 ECU power points were not getting 12v and neither was the ignitor and therefore the coil. so i quickly wires these points up to 12v and shes fires and ran smoothly first go, didnt idle, but this could be due to it sitting for a while or a sensor not working etc.. nothing i cant handle.

im now off to properly wire up my repairs and plumb up the coolant system to i can get back on track with getting it driving!!

Again thanks for everyones help and patience.

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Spent the day properly rewireing everything that needed wiring up, tidiest most of it up, still need to do a bit and make some panels to cover the wires.

everything now works off the key as it should, cranks strong and starts quickly.

also had a quick hunt in the shed and turned up this nice 80's (maybe 90's) pioneer tape deck. so thats perfect for what im after. just a radio, not caring about crazy hifi in this car. and it looks the part.

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Sample image cause who actually takes photos of tape decks?

Im also now at a cross roads. i have two options.

Do i tidy everything up and leave it as a cheap, fast and fun car,

Or do i spend a little more and make it a seriously nice car.

Im unsure.

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Well a massive thanks to 4AG_Addict for setting me up with some tires and a steering wheel from an ae85 (had one from a 90's mr2, that had no clearance to the stalks)

i removed the trueno badge from the wheel and toyed with photoshop, some photo paper and that thick clear rubber plastic stuff you put on motorbikes to stop scuffing, trying to emulate the original badge with a more suited logo. turned out pretty good. the wheel is WAY better to drive with and the horn even works! stoked.

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it all fits well with the sweet red and black interiors of these cars! gotta love the 80's

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Pic of the slightly cool old pioneer tape deck, certainly the look i was going for, stock with a hint of quality. also found that its got some quite nice pioneer speakers sitting behind the grills, so it makes good noise!

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and finally a photo or two parked next to my old sw20, now belonging to my father. Love both of these cars.

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Swapped over my black headlight surrounds.

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and wired up the factory oil pressure gauge. got some readings that are possibly not great but im not 100% sure on the reliabilty. had a look online and aparently the gauges are crap to start with, but whats really bothering me is the part number for the sender differs between the 16 valve and 20 valve.

has anyone had a good 20 valve wired up the the stock gauge before? would be good to get a bench mark, the wire was zip tied away as if the person that built the car deemed it a waste of time.

anyway.

oil pressures and situations as follow.

cold engine

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warm engine idle

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warm engine ~3000rpm

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2nd gear ~50km/h steady

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5th gear ~50kmh steady

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Idle after the drive

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Engine oil appears clear as new and is full. 15w40 Penrite HPR15. i wonder if this could be a little thin?

Also notice how the water temp gauge doesn't go above about 1/3rd. im wondering if the same shift in scale applies to the oil pressure gauge.

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Videod the car around the block for a bit, the cars engine note is raspy in general and an exhaust leak dosnt help, but i dont really hear any rattles, then again i dont have a great deal of knowlege on what im looking for.

the bit just after the round about behind the silver van, i put it in 5th from about 20kmh to try load the engine up, its quiet and sluggish but not rattly

video will be live soon, when my slow ass internet uploads it

pwkaUaWoZqU

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yep, gamble failed, big end knock is back, so ill need to throw another set of mains at it aswell as pull #2 rod out to get made round again.

gutted sure, but not angry since i understood the gamble i took when i only did the bearings the first time.

onto the surely crap job of getting the head off in that tiny engine bay.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Progress on this has been slow but steady.

aquired a new engine for this for $350. sold off the remaining good parts from the old engine for $130, will scrap the rest so the new engine cost around $200

changed the cambelt and other belts and gave the rocker cover a bit of a paint up, semi inspired by the original "blue top 4age" need to do the plenum cover still.

put the engine in yesterday, hope to plumb up the cooling and plug everything in tomorrow and have it going

Engine ready to go in.

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Engine in

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engine was heavier than i thought and bent my swing set!

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got this thing running pretty well now.

still stalls out at idle sometimes, often when you put your foot on the brake. thoughts?

Fuq5BW_IBrw

Apologies for the poor sound, the engine hums quite nicely, no vvt pulley tick either!, gets pretty rowdy up in the vicinity of 8000rpm though

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  • 4 weeks later...

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