SP450andLE's 1989 Lada 'Fiva'

[SP450andLE]

Right, so this is arguably oldschool...

Discussion here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28118

This is a not-so-standard Niva, with a modified 2L Twin-cam Fiat engine residing under the bonnet (hence the 'Fiva' name).]

The standard 2L Twin-Cam engine produces around 112 bhp, so this one, with 10.5:1 compression should be more powerful...

This particular vehicle is known internationally, as the conversion was documented here: http://www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/cloggy/fiva1.html

Some specs:

Arches have been cut.

Standard Lada bumper has been custom cut for the rear, while a full-custom bumper has been made for the front.

Snorkel has been added, but is not suited the the air filter housing.

Sports bucket seats installed on custom mounting frames.

30mm Lift and lengthened shocks, as well as uprated springs.

36DCD7 Weber carb.

1980’s Subaru Ute fuel pump.

Subaru Ute air filter housing.

Toyota Cressida power steering.

Twin electric fans.

Polycarbonate box containing capacitor-type coil and ignition module.

Sealed beam headlights.

Subaru Legacy header tank.

I am just finishing off the rebuild that was started by Stu Good. He has done most of the hard bits, but a rough list of what I need to do is: tidy up wiring; clean up interior (I am aiming for a semi-stripped look for the time being, with no door cards – depending on legality, only door furniture and limited amounts of carpet – probably only in the back); repaint the whole vehicle (probably a green and silver/chrome two-tone); kill the slight bits of rust; protect the undercarriage; tune the carb properly; eventually get a rear locker; make a custom snorkel and then get it roadworthy and get out there and enjoy it!!

Before Stu Good, another Stu, this time from Palmerston North, had mainly been using the Fiva for trials. Basically, this is what I want to continue with. In addition to that, I think the usual forest and farm runs seem a good activity for the winter…

I'm not sure when the various things were done, but these are the most noticeable modifications.

And here's the write-up: (copied and pasted from elsewhere )

Well, we managed to get the Fiva started this weekend. It ran alright-ish, but smoked a little. We discovered diff leaks and gearbox leaks (which drips onto the exhaust mount and creates a bit of smelly smoke coming out the engine bay). The left-hand CV is also stuffed

We took it for a bit of a drive over the farm to test articulation etc, and discovered that the springs will fall out before the wheels leave the ground.

We then took it for a quick drive up the road. It definitely isn't running the best.

But on a good note, I started cleaning the interior a bit, and have decided to, for the time being, have a semi-stripped interior. So we have bare doors, apart from all the handles and the armrests on them.

Also, it looks a lot higher off the ground now that the TONNES of parts are out of it. No wonder our Pajero was struggling to tow it up the steep hills...

Some piccies:

Articulation:

After doing the articulation testing, the spring dislocated:

But I have been told this is normal. I will secure the bottom and do further testing to see if it stops before the top falls out. Hopefully it will stay in place.

All the parts that came with it: (Dog wasn't included )

Well... Yesterday I made a template for the rear carpet, and today cut the carpet and trial fitted it. I was afraid that the edges would fray, so I used some FIRE (Twisted Evil ) to burn/melt the edges to hold them together. It now needs to be trimmed a bit then stuck down. Pic's to come.

Dad and I also tried to tune it a bit. That didn't work out too well, as the carb had different screws to the webers in the two Fiat manuals I have. So I may need to research how to tune it.

So all in all, not much got done.

Righty...

Having no school and a fair bit of spare time at Dad's, I have been able to get a fair bit done.

Firstly, I finished the carpet that I had started:

I then started tidying up bits of the vehicle, so removed the radio (it wasn't functional), the speakers and the rear soundproofing. I also painted the indicator surrounds in new gloss black just to tidy it up a little:

I then decided to get the spotlights working properly. I just had to re-earth one wire and it was ok, however, the fuse went kaput when I tried them later that night.

So I replaced that, but then the headlights themselves didn't want to work.

Oh well, just more to fix...

I then decided to check over the dual electric fans. All seemed fine, until I saw the fuse:

I think they come on automatically, so I haven't yet been able to see if they work properly.

During all this, the horn button stuffed itself, so I wired it up directly to the power. The wiring just needs to be tidied up when I have what I need.

I also relocated the horn closer to the grille so that it may be a bit louder, to help me ward off the crap Auckland drivers.

I bought two fire extinguishers, and fitted them both in front of the two front seats, where they are out of the way of feet and also the seat itself, but while still being easily reachable:

I removed the one rubber arch extension, and then removed the tabs of metal that it had been attached to, as well as the tabs on the left front guard:

All this time I had been doing rust-proofing and killing on the body-work. I found some dodgy fixes, such as the underseal on the right front under-arch being put over rusty seams. I got rid of that rust and put underseal back over it:

I managed to get as far as zinc-painting the rear of the drivers side of the body:

I did try to get the front bumper off, but after getting the bolts off, the bumper wouldn't move. I ended up gettiing the standard Niva to tug on it with a short rope, but even that didn't work. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad

So... That's gunna stay right where it is... Laughing Laughing

Finally, I managed to make one new doorcard, for the driver's side. I got some old doorcards I had laying around, ans stripped off the vinyl. I then put it on top of the plastic checker-plate stuff I got from Supercheap (which was on special a day AFTER I bought mine ). It took a fair bit of time, tape and hot-gluing to get it stuck on properly, but I think it looks ok...

Oh, wait, one more finally:

During the process of taking the spark-plugs out, the tip of one (the bit that screws on) must have fallen into the sparkpug hole, as when started again, the engine made a reasonalbly loud clattering. A while of vaccuming in the holes didn't work, so it looks like time for the head to come off now... Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad

Oh well, two steps forward, one back.

More photos of whatever can be seen at: http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... ?start=all

Righty...

More time at the farm means more progress.

I started by removing the rear bumper, and cleaning it. I then did some rust repairs in behind where the bumper fits.

I also zinc-painted the fitting plates for the rubber strips, after getting off the light surface rust.

I then sprayed the tow hook that fits to the rear bumper in red zinc, to make it stand out, and look different.

The same was done with the front hooks too. These need tidying up later, but are ok for now.

Then I sprayed the front bumper with plain black paint, just to tidy it up.

The grille was also sprayed black at the same time.

I also finished the undersealing on the wheelarches, so that is all good and clean for now. But not for long, hopefully...

Just before I left, I managed to zinc-paint and under-seal the sump guard, which will be fitted when I get the correct bolts. (Do you like my makeshift stand for the spraying? )

I didn't attempt to get the sparkplug tip out again. I need a decent jack first so I can lift it on one side...

OOH, also...

Here are some pics of the flex with the rear wheel barely touching the ground. The spring can be removed, so will need to be tied down.

Righty...

This is a little delayed, because I couldn't borrow a card reader for a while. I really should get my own...

WE GOT THE SPARKPLUG TIP OUT!! As somebody suggested, we rolled the vehicle back a bit, on the side of a bank, so that the thing would roll down to one side of the engine.

We had a vacuum with a smaller hose connected, and a washer hose connected to that. After trying for a bit, I went off to do something (probably sob ) and Lincoln (my Brother) called out, as he managed to make the tip stick to the hose.

Success!

So, here's the s/plug tip now:

I did try to start it after, but the two wires that go into the dizzy (elec. ignition) fell out of the plug, and I didn't know what way they were meant to go. It didn't start, so I'm assuming that is why.

I'm thinking there wont be too much damage to the piston or anything, because of the s/plug tip being squished so small. - The thing was squished instead of staying in-tact and scraping the hell out of the piston.

Also, I painted the timing gear cover red, after dad and Lincoln said I should. It should match the air filter housing, and brighten the engine bay up a bit.

Ok, a little more progress (it's been slow, as I've been sorting my Uni entrance and our ridiculous govt makes it so hard to get a student loan)

The drain plug came out of the radiator, and left a big hole in it. So I took it into work (Imagin-Airing), and got my boss to solder it. It had a small leak still afterwards, as he couldn't find any decent solder or lead.

So I put a patch of quick-steel putty over it:

And then I decided to paint it afterwards:

Before:

After:

Right, that's about all that's been done so far.

I haven't managed to assess the damage done by the sparkplug tip yet, but hopefully it has just knocked the tappets out of place, and not bent a valve

More to come someday soon hopefully...

[Lincooln]

Well, I am selling my Suzuki vitara and some of the money from that will be going into this. Basically I am taking this over as my daily / off roader

Plan is, new discs, pads, rekitted calipers, new clutch and brake master cylinders, new cam belt, WP, tensioner. Take the head off and inspect damage. I believe a valve may be bent. Also obviously replace head gasket and all the other gaskets seals above. Sort out the bit of surface rust. Replace diff and gearbox oil seals and then it should be all go. May need to cert the race seats as they have custom mounts to the floor. Mind you they are way way stringer than before so not really a problem. Rear brake wise I will get the drums checked and the cylinders rekitted as well.

Will post up progress when things start to happen.

[Lincooln]

So an update with pics. Thing is now in Auckland. Me and bro started work on it today as well. Mostly just rust repairs (no pics) and duel tank draining (no pics). Also turned it over.

Have bought a new CV for it, oil seals and all that jargon. Feeling poorer all ready. Not looking forward to getting the head gasket set, cambelt, WP etc. Still it needs it all and it will be sweet when done. Will also need a re cert for the modified seats mounts.

Idea at the moment is to have it going by February

Note the mumified friend on the passenger seat

[Lincooln]

So today I did some more rust repairs. removed the right rear window, found a few rust holes. Sorted that, sorted some bad bogging done by other people, got annoyed at the weather for not deciding to rain properly or to be fine. Also sick of humidity and paint not drying.

Then I took rear wheels off and looked at brakes, found on each wheel that one side of the slave cylinder had seized a bit, bit of screwing and they were free as. Left wheel has been leaking fluid so needs the seals replaced., otherwise they are all good. Last time to work on it now till after new years.

Few pics follow. Also note that with the muds on it has 250mm diff clearance. also I think I will just put interior seam trim on the guards edge as the tyres do not stick out past.

[Lincooln]

Well body work is pretty much done, bought some paint for it on the weekend. Just need to get the clear coat, thinners and hardener. Started to get things ready to remove the head. Turns out one of the cam gears has jumped one tooth on the belt. Not sure which one. Will find out I suppose when the head is removed.

No pictures sorry.

[Lincooln]

Another pictureless update as I am useless at remembering to take pics and besides I have been to busy to worry about that.

Got new rear brake cylinders today and they are all fitted up. Fitted up the new right cv and regressed the left CVs. New Camblet tensioner and thermostat is o its way from Fiat parts NZ, No where else had listings for the tensioner and the thermostat was listed as $70 trade at BNT. Got a new waterpump today as well.

Took teh ehad in to teh head shop yesterday and I just need to drop off the head gasket set next tuesday once I get that the seals can be done in the head, Head is also being skimmed too.

Sparkplug tip has not caused very much trouble at all luckily, don't think that even a valve has bent. So lucky as. Also lucky as the pistons are not the ones cloggy put in when it was first built. They are, by the looks, standard 132 pistons.

could not find a new power steer belt as its is like a really small cambelt or something, so will stay with the old one and keep an eye out. Got a new alternator belt.

So tomorrow I should be able to finish putting the right hub back together, bleed brakes, drain the oil and fit the new filter, put new oil in rear diff and check gearbox etc and top up front diff. spilt some front diff oil today doing the right CV and it was nice fresh looking stuff. Buy some new blades to clean old gaskets and some coolant.

Things seem to be on track to be done my next weekend. touch wood it all goes well.

[Lincooln]

So here are some piccies.

I also got some door seam trim form a Suzuki and used them to line the edge of the guards. Makes them look better and will be good for a WoF. Pics of the head too. Oh also I got a Sony head deck out of the same Suzuki at pick-a-part. CD player and all. So that will go into the Fiva at some stage.

[Lincooln]

so this is running and all that,

Still missing a bit. Think its due to crap leads and fouled up plugs. Plugs fouled due to too rich idle mixture, is better now, also need to do the timing better as its only done by ear at the moment.

Will need to get new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor and it should be all good. Can drive and take for a WoF so will do so soon.

Electric fans were re wired and now they work with a manual on off switch and the thermo witch for normal use. Replaced all the blown bulbs and got everything else sorted.

Brakes just need another bleed but they are alright as it is. Wheel arches have now got suzuki vitara door trims on them. Looks tidier and the flares in the guards cover the tyres so no problems

[Lincooln]

sweet, well kinda. Lada was taken in for a WoF today. Failed on 4 things. Too much brake pedal travel (which is silly as most Ladas' I have driven have had quite a bit), Uncaptive rear springs, exhaust mounts and bit of rust round the brake master cylinder. Also wanted me to secure front indicator and paint the underneath in chassis black to hide the surface rust.

So far I have cleaned underneath, got rid of the rust by the brake bracket, secured the indicator and started rust converting underneath, Also re bled brakes again just in case. Need to adjust rear brakes again including handbrake, do exhaust mounts, paint and fit standard Lada rear shocks. So by Monday it should be all good to go.

[Lincooln]

[Guest Lincooln]

[Lincooln]

Holy crap I have not added anything to this for ages!!!

 

Well its kinda running now. Finally after chasing a couple of problems for ages.

 

Came upon one major problem which was that it couldn't run the standard dizzy setup with the EFI manifold as the injectors got in the way. So I found a kit online that is a dizzyless ignition system. It is a Compu-Tronix unit and works on Fiats and Fords. Sweet kit with everything in it from leads to wiring harness etc. Spark is meant to be 50x stronger than a conventional setup so yay. Looks sweet with a coil pack now too. The computer and all the wizardry fits in the thing that looks kinda like the old dizzy and it bolts straight in. Can't say enough about this kit.

 

Had a few problems with the EFI kit, missing the double relay, and numerous other bits. Got it all sorted though.

 

Went to start it and the original fuel pump seized so had to buy a new one, got a 044. Much better now. Also had to by pass the surge tank as it wasn't working right as the lift pump could not keep up with the 044 so currently to get it running it is now sucking straight from tank with return to tank. To set it up right I kinda need a four port surge tank (return to surge, lift to surge, EFI pump feed and overflow/pressure relief to tank) so that's annoying. Will see how this way goes for now.

 

Filled the cab with fuel as I had hooked up the fuel return line in the engine bay but didn't check the tank connection as I was lazy and it wasn't there. So filled it all up. Typical. Sorted that issue and it was much better. After a month of leaving it open to get rid of the fuel smell.

 

Finally got it running on Saturday. Main problem I think was that the throttle position sensor needed to be re-calibrated so I did that and it fired up straight away. Have run it a few times now but at the moment it won't start again, re did timing, reset the TPS again and new plugs too. No luck. Can't work it out. Battery is now being re-charged so will see if that helps. I wanted to get it going again so that I could get it for a drive and clear it out. It had old fuel but I have drained that and refilled with good 98 too, which will help the plugs fouling up. 

 

Sounds cool and seems way smoother and a lot happier to rev now than it used to be with the carb setup. Looking forward to getting out in the mud. I just need to tidy up some wiring, change the oil, 

 

thinks that's the main gist of it all.

 

Pics:

 

To be added tomorrow as I need to get some new pics of the setup as I only have old ones at the moment. Bare with me.