sam

ahahah he must off forgot it!

Found this on club k from a guy who found it eles where ahahha also added some info, im 99% sure its relating to the mx73. Some guy spent a lot of time doing this write up! This should help alot of people out, feel free to move this topic if need be. --------------------------------------------------------------------- ENGINES 6MGE bolts up, wires up, no effort required worthy if you can get one cheap. Difficulty 1/10 Worth it? extra 20hp, 20 Nm torque, once again, price dependent (This is over the 5MGE, not the 5ME) 7MGE bolts up, needs 7MGE loom, ecu and be 'spliced' into MX73 may be able to use 5MGE harness and sensors, but wouldn’t get full effect. may need small exhaust change to suit MX73 system Difficulty 3/10 Worth it? extra 30hp, 30 Nm torque, price dependent (over the 5MGE) 7MGTE bolts up, NEEDS 7MGTE loom, ecu, and be spliced into MX73 needs bigger exhaust and intercooler to get best benefit. Difficulty 4/10 Worth it? yes, if you can get one for a good price 1GGTE Bolts up with GX71/GA61 1G-EU or 1G-GEU mounts. needs 1G gbox (or at least the bellhousing) needs 1GGTE loom and ecu, and be spliced. needs bigger exhaust and intercooler to get best benefit. Difficulty 5/10 Worth it? yes, if you can get one for a good price, and you have the mounting sorted. 1JZGTE Can use custom mounts with the stock crossmember (available in Australia, was $250AUD plus postage, not sure now) or you can use an MX83 crossmember, and factory JZX81 mounts,(late 90-92 for Australia, any MX83 for US), or you can use the factory JZX81 crossmember and mounts (ie, if you get a JZX81 front cut) needs 1JZ gbox (or at least the bellhousing) needs 1JZGTE loom and ecu, and be spliced. needs bigger exhaust and intercooler to get best benefit. Difficulty 7/10 Worth it? yes. The Nonturbo 1JZ-GE isn't really a worthy swap for the dollars it costs, unless you can get one uber cheap. 2JZGTE as above for 1JZGTE (same mounting), but will have clearance issues with turbo's (may not apply to LHD) Difficulty 9/10 Worth it? yes. The nonturbo 2JZ-GE is also definately worth a look. It will match a stock 7M-GTE any day of the week, and is capable of nice figures with some dollars thrown at it. 1UZFE needs custom mounts (available from Peewee on the Cressida forums, $120AUD plus postage) needs custom exhaust, and most likely manifold modifications around steering needs 1UZFE loom and ecu, and be spliced Difficulty 8/10 Worth it? yes. ALL motors will need a front sump version. ALL sumps can be interchanged within the same family (ie, if you buy a 1jz with a mid sump, you can put a 2jz front sump on it, but you need the sump (both halves), baffle plate, pickup, and dipstick/tube) All loom problems can be sorted with going aftermarket ECU Any motor with coilpacks (ie, not a standard coil) will need a tacho converter Cost of installation of all motors is the same. What varies is exhaust costs, intercooler costs, wiring costs. Turbo motors may require a radiator upgrade. WHAT CARS HAVE WHAT ENGINES 6MGE Found in the MS126? Crown 3000 as a mid sump Found in the MZ12 Soarer as a front sump. 7MGE Found in MX83 Cressida as a front sump Found in MS130 series Crowns as a mid sump Found in MA70 Supras as a midrear sump Found in MZ20 Soarers as a midrear sump 7MGTE Found in MA70/71 Supras as a midrear sump Found in MZ21 Soarers as a midrear sump 1GGTE Found in GZ20 Soarers as a midrear sump Found in GA70 Supras as a midrear sump Found in GX81 Chasers as a front sump 1JZGTE Found in JZA70 Supras as a midrear sump Found in JZX81/90/100 Chasers as a front sump Found in JZZ30 Soarers as a midrear sump 2JZGE Found in JZA80 Supras as a midrear sump Found in JZZ31 Soarers/SC300 as a midrear sump Found in JZS14x Aristos/GS300s as a front sump Found in the IS300 2JZGTE Found in JZA80 Supras as a midrear sump Found in JZS14x Aristos/GS300s as a front sump 1UZFE Found in UZS131 Crowns as a mid sump Found in UZS14x/151 Crowns/GS400 as a front sump Found in UCF10/11/20 LS400s/Celsiors as a front sump Found in UZZ30/31/32 Soarers/SC400 as a midrear sump MOUNTS Last known address Bonneville Automotive Pty Ltd. 17 Phillips Road Kogarah. New South Wales 2217 Australia Phone: +61 2 9553 4708 GEARBOXS W55, W57, W58, R154, A340E, A341E, A350E Will bolt up to all of these engines. W5x series gearbox to M series motor, will require a 5MGE or 7MGE manual bellhousing R15x series gearbox to M series motor, will require a 7MGTE manual bellhousing W5x series gearbox to G series motor, will require a 1GGE or 1GGTE manual bellhousing R15x series gearbox will not bolt to G series motor (but you can get the J160 6 speed from the IS200 that bolts up) W5x series gearbox to JZ series motor, will require a 1JZGE or 2JZGE manual bellhousing R15x series gearbox to JZ series motor, will require a 1JZGTE manual bellhousing W5x or R15x series gearbox to UZ series motor will require a custom bellhousing from CASTLEMAINE RODSHOP, or DELLOW AUTOS Converting to manual will require lengthening the driveshaft, or finding a manual one from a wreck. Using R154 or any of the auto's will require a larger spline on the driveshaft than the factory one. W5x series gearbox will require 2nd most rear shifter position (as per MA70) R15x series gearbox will require MA70 or JZA70 shifter position. MX73 runs the same output shaft as the W series boxes. The A340E (MX83 on), A341E, A350E, and R154 run a slightly larger output shaft, and will need a custom tailshaft (custom as in needs to be professionally modded). Some of the late model autos have a weird yoke on the output of the box, but these can be changed for a normal one. All bellhousings in the A340E, A341E, A350E range should be interchangeable with each other (you may have to swap over torque convertor too, which may require swapping over oil pump). A340E from MX73 runs the same output shaft as the W5x and the A43DE, so you will need to swap the yoke to use it with the later A34xE range. When mounting a gearbox in an MX73, there should be very little hassles. Under the car, the MX73 has a row of holes where you can choose where to put crossmember. And since the crossmember isn’t straight, you can turn it around. DIFFERENTIALS You can get any ratio from about 3.5 to 4.7 Look around local wreckers, look at RA65 Celica's, Crowns, Hiace's, Hilux's, and Supra's We can use the MA61 Supra LSD centre. Infact, the whole diff can just be swapped for a Supra one (bolts in) If you go a turbo, or the V8, I recommend getting a Truetrac LSD centre, from RABIDCHIMP Here is the list 3.583 - RA65 Celica(F372) 3.583 - RT142 Corona (F372) 3.727 - RA65 Celica (F302) 3.727 - GA61 Celica XX, (F302 3.727 - MA61 Supra import(F303) 3.909 - RA25 Celica Manual (F313) 3.909 - MX13 Mk2 Corona(manual/auto?) (F312), 3.909 - MX23 Mk2 Corona auto(F312), 3.909 - MA46 Supra (manual/auto?) (F312) 3.909 - MA61 Supra manual (F313)LSD 4.10 - MS110 Crown auto (plated as F362, but was F293 in vehicle), 4.10 - MS112 Crown auto (F292), 4.10 - MX13 Mk2 Corona (F292), 4.10 - MX73 Cressida auto(F292), 4.10 - MA61 Supra auto(ADM) (F293), 4.10 - GZ10 Soarer auto(F292), 4.10 - MZ10 Soarer auto(F292), 4.30 - GA61 Celica manual(F285)LSD 4.30 - MS123 Crown auto(F282) 4.556 - MA63 Supra auto(EDM?) (F252) 4.75 - MS57 Crown auto(F??2 - no build plate fitted) 4.778 - MS110 crown auto(F362) SUSPENSION There are a few places that do springs. Even if they don't list them, they will probably still make custom ones for you (price isn't much greater) KING SPRINGS KONI, Cressida not mentioned, but they will do custom. LOVELLS, Cressida low isn't mentioned, but I'm sure they do them. DOBINSONS As for shocks, get Tokico's. You can see which ones on the RABIDCHIMP website. MX73 uses the same shocks as the MA61 Supra I recommend getting PolyUrethane Bushes at the same time, make the ride a little bit stiffer. Who makes PolyUrethane Bushes? NOLTEC NOLATHANE LOVELLS SUPERPRO I dunno whether any of these are available in the USofA, but I'm sure at least one would be. RABIDCHIMP stock SUPERPRO bushes for the MA61. Crossreference the part numbers to find out which ones may be the same as the MX73 OIL Manual gearbox, run Redline Lightweight ShockProof. Diff, not sure, but planning to run Redline of some sort. REDLINE RIMS The stock size is 15x6", with a 20mm offset. Apparently 17x7" rims, with a 25mm offset fit well. You then have to be careful what size tyres you put on so that it doesnt scrape. The largest I have seen on an MX73 was 18x8" on the front (with 245's) and 18x9" on the rear (with 265's), and he had to roll the guards to stop scrubbing. I would recommend 17x8" on the rear (with 245/40's) and 17x7" on the front (with 215/45's)." http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=19995 ------------------------------------------------------------------ Interchangable parts: 7m and 1jz: Clutch kits (but not flywheel) Cat back Exhausts 89+ motor mounts (rubber part) Anything trans related Anything gauge related Rad (if you're not using the 1J hydro fan setup) Driveshaft/Diff 2jz to 1jz: Power steering pump Alternator Spark plugs (ngk 3330 and 6097) US spec 550cc injectors (resistor pack needed) JDM Spec 440cc injectors (drop in upgrade) Water Pump (requires removal of the 1J hydro fan and a 2J pully) Head gaskets (although most other gaskets do not swap, get a 1J set to do it right) Clutch fan (if you use a MKIV water pump and pulley) Fuel Pump Serpentine belt (but NOT timing belt) Oil filter and relocation kits Intercooler kits Plug coils Cam gears (incl aftermarket adjustable) Map sensor (I think... someone verify please) Ignitor seems to be the same too Rod and main bearings. The head bolts, crank and rod bolts from stock or ARP either bolts or studs w/nuts. The pistons including the wrist pins, wrings and locks. Stock side feed or after market side feed high ohm injectors. Low ohm injectors require wiring in the 7M or preferably 2JZ injector resistor pack. Water pump and housing when replacing the hydro fan to electric or clutch fan. Cams are normally not interchangeable with out some grinding on the 2JZ cam and having it spun balanced, HKS, Jun and Blitz all make 256, 264, and 272 cams for the 1JZ. Cam shims, springs, retainers, Valves and springs, along with buckets are interchangeable. For an aftermarket flywheel, order a 7M fly but have the 2J bolt pattern drilled into it. The 1988+ Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinder 2.6 liter engine (4ZEL) uses the same belt as the Toyota 1JZ engine. So instead of getting a belt from Japan (~$100) you can pick up an Isuzu Trooper belt locally at an auto parts store for about $30 US. Make Sure You Get The 4 Cylinder 2.6 Litre Engine Belt! http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/archive/i ... 34936.html

looking good bro sick wheels! thanks for the mounts!

Thanks! bit lower with conversion shit in it

ok so apparently the vvti version may have different flywheel bolt patterns? anyone know? 1g bellhousing will bolt up does anyone know if itl bolt to 1g crossmember?

both those looks good for the price, cbf getting the parts for it though, after a complete motor to drop in. could be keen on that $500 one!

Bord on a sat, so checked if had a lsd which i was pretty sure i Didnt, turns out i was right its a open diff ahahah. Also took the cressy for a walk and got some fresh air, leaking rusty water all over the streets Got some shit pics from my phone, looks bit nicer on spacers Diagnosed a heavy bumping sound aswell, coming from my front left wheel. #Lesson 1 : remember to tighten your lugs every time you take your wheels off shit was about to fall off !

Never considered a 1g-fe! sounds sweet and looks like it performs alright! might try source one for cheap! know anyone?

Spacers on and fitted after some machining. Having trouble finding a 1ggte/1gge :/ and becoming more and more tempted for a x90 1zj !

want to sell me you 1ggte?

I need moaar funds! hahaha

Yeah thats where she lives and thanks mate!

Just bought some 27mm spacers to fill up the gaurds. Should have them tomorrow if not next week, will post photos once their on!

Hey mate no cracks as im aware, can flick of to you for some coin once the new motors in. Ill let you know!

ahahaha i wouldnt mind a a s13 on meshies or impuls like nice vibe

Jz route would be sweet, but already having the half the gear im already half way there. If i was to go jz mounts bellhousing etc just adds and ontop of a motor which I cant afford. Im not after big dyno figures and performance, i just want something good for what it is, my main concern at the moment is to get it on the road again as my daily as driving a daihatsu charade isnt very manley imo . And fuck of stan you cant take credit for everything u fag ahahah

Hey triumph you bought my volks I think Thanks i just pm'd him, and fuel nice! looks mint as i said they were damaged and got new ones for $20 and i was considering a 1jz swap but as i have a 1g bellhousing and will have crossmember and mounts next week, id rather save the money and go down the better sounding 1g path. In terms of performance im not to fussed, as long as it sounds cool and can get side ways some what on request im happy

Hey oldschool, some of you may recognise my car from one of the burger fuel meets or when it was on sale here. Thought it was about time I got round to a build thread on here. Discussion http://oldschool.co....hp?f=18&t=35722 Names Sam, in November 2011, I bought my first Toyota! 1988 Toyota Cressida, fully standard 2.8l 5m-e, Over night it magicaly was lower by a couple of inchs Thanks to my old mans angle grinder, the springs lost 2 coils in the rear and 1 and a half in the fronts. Nick at platinum wheels got me some new shortened shocks making it captive all round and past its wof! Got featured in February's nz car performance issue with my mate kruiz's ke20 Used my mates Stan's/k2dori's watanabes for the Nostagic hero meet back in march I think? Wish i Bought them! Kruiz now has them on his ke20. This is how the car looks now Scored some Hoshino impul g5's of a guy on clubk fo $300 bucks The 5m-e has had a dodgy water bypass pipe which I have been patching up for a while, and its finally decided it had enough right after i gave it this service. I bought a little daihatsu to get to work seeing as the Cressida only goes for about 10mins before loosing all its coolant ahaha. Iv recently bought a full w55 manual conversion of Southern Hardstyle and decided to save for a 1gge/1ggte. If anyone wants the 5m after the swap let me know, i might pull it apart and give the parts away for a couple bucks or so. My inspiration Im going to get pipes similar to this This weekend I swapped out the big automatic brake pedal box for the smaller manual one and put in the clutch pedal which is ready for the master slave cylinder to be bolted on. I also have a spare center console minus lid bit if someone wants it Thanks to Thomas, Stan and Paul for most my photos Currently im trying to find a place where i can get my hoshino's widened, I have contacted Arrow wheels and they dont work with 14's and i sent a email to bateman racing in wellington a week ago and haven't had a reply. For now i save and wait for a 1gge/1ggte to come up and continue with my manual conversion and start the motor swap! For the future new motor, wider wheels with some stretch, new pipes, roofspoiler and im happy! Oh and maybe coilovers if i cbf ahhaha. Let me know what you think and what not here http://oldschool.co....hp?f=18&t=35722 Look forward to hearing what you think and meeting more of the os guys! Will keep everyone posted as updates arise

//oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=35723 Let me know what you think, give me some feed back etc etc! Any help/tips on the conversion/swap or anything would be appreciated Cheers! SAM

looking good

Its a real bitch to take off its right under the intake manifold and loops behind the block, might have to though probly my easilest option cheers for the replys

Its the actual metal pipe the on the end where the rubber hose goes on it is where the hole is located

Because a new pipe is 400bucks from japan, and its a real bitch to get to its under the intake and loops around under the exhaust side a bit aswell, i could chop it out but another pipe comes down onto it,

thanks for the reply, pretty sure the gasket is ok, the coolant pisses out of where the hole is can only drive a few kms before stopping and refilling with water before it over heats

hello there I was wondering if someone may be able to help with a few things. As off last weekend I discovered that my heater hose pipe has a hole in it at the very end where the hose goes on it. The end that is under the intake manifold. Coolant leaks out and the engine starts to over heat. its a 5m-e 2.8l in my mx73. I want to try bypass the heater core but i am unsure how i would go by doing so . The heater hose pipe is also connected to the water pump. I Would need to bypass the whole beginning of the heater hose, theres also another hose that comes onto the beginning of the heater pipe i would need to bypass aswell. Could i just run some T joints and a hose to where the pipe comes out of the fire wall and splice into the hose and a T joint there? Any help is appreciated ! Cheers Sam