ta63-1uzze

Yup p clips from b and t for two bucks each . Yeah cert guy said he was happy but have to p clip the fuck out of it. Like one every three inch or so. Fucking heaps. . .

have got all the right gear at work yay, also ordered the copper type pipe from bnt and it will be there tomorow , full steam ahead

Choice, that is what i like to hear. Will put it on work account so hopefully it is a bit cheaper. will grab a few meters tomorow if they have it in stock

awesome info , great pictures too, i will call BnT tomorrow and find out about tube and a tube bender. see if they have that softer tube, might make life a bit easier has anyone else used this softer tube that I have been told about ?

yeah luckily i have the original line to use as a template but i like that idea is very good way of mocking up lines, i have used brake line for making clutch pipe but never fuel line hence why i am not sure how to connect it to the engine/and pump . . . we do have a flaring tool at work but i am not sure if it goes up to 3/8. As it is only a small kit used primarily for repairing brake pipe, Will have a look on Monday see what I can find. So if I partially flair the end does this set me up to use high pressure fuel hose and fuel hose clamps for connectors?

hey , yeah i got the injector size from this guide " http://www.lextreme.com/R&D%20Injector.htm" . i am not planning on making huge amounts of power per say. more or less planning on setting it to run 7 to 10 psi max as i am concerned about the amount of power the diff will take and because of the torque that will be being applied to it i am weary not to wind up the boost in case I blow it to a million bits.

So I am at a stage where I need to start running fuel lines. I have been told that there is some tube that I can get from BnT that is made out of soft compound so you can bend it by hand without crushing the centre flat. Can’t quite remember what it’s made of possibly copper nickel or something. I haven’t had to build a fuel system before so I am in need of advice. I need to know what size pipe I need to buy and how to terminate it at each end. Will flexible fuel hose work or will I need to have braded hose and connectors? Will I have to flare the ends like a brake pipe setup if using these style connectors? So far I have these components bosh 044 pump that I will be putting in the tank in the factory cradle (I am not sure if this will flow enough fuel so any input here would help also), 7mge injector’s 295cc (x8) factory fuel rails and regulators. I have a link ecu so won’t have to run an aftermarket pressure regulator (please correct me if i am wrong, am running a supercharger max of 10psi is the plan).

so been ages since i made an up date, had a bit of time off work with a injury so couldn’t work on the car for a week which sucks cause when your home and there is heaps to do but you cant do it it drives you nuts. had to get my shocks shortened a little to help keep the springs captive and get the ride height correct, this means i had to take out the 20mm spacer and re cut the tubes . didn’t take long to rework the tubes . and it was worth doing it , very happy with the outcome . this is set at 70mm chassis to the ground , will go another 30mm lower (aprox haven’t wound it down as i need to roll the guards ) . max height measures out to be 120mm chassis to ground, haven’t wound it up max yet so this is just a rough measurement . so when i get my wheels they should lift it up a bit so should all work out sweet. also started some of the rust repairs The boot has the most of the rust, around the tail lights and boot latch, bugger all in the windscreen which is good, this must have been looked after very well : )

Just a random side note for people who are looking at this info, something that most people don’t know is that the oil light on your dash isn’t low oil level it is low oil pressure. I know this isn’t directly any help to your fault but if others are reading this it may help them to understand what the light is for and this info will go hand in hand with the rest of the solid good info that others have said I would be checking actual oil pressure as this will tell you exactly where the issues is, whether it be low pressure caused by worn bearings ,pump ,faulty valve to thin oil etc. Or if it’s an electrical fault with the sender or what not. If its pressure related then you can start looking into bearings and pump which both require the motor to be pulled apart and cleaned and assembled to some extent, then you can decide if you want to pull it out and clean the whole thing or just half ass it and do the minimum required to get it going again

some te71 came with box . . . hanvt come across many with box setup .

so been awhile , some maggot of a person stole my phone and then my awesome Toyota corolla daily driver wagon got hit so have had allot of my time wasted making police reports and fighting with insurance over the phone etc. so haven’t been able to do a update cause i didn’t have my phone to take the pictures with , finally got a new phone so can do a bit of a update anyway. . . borrowed a good mates wheels to check what kind of dish i can look into getting , and also so i could set up the adjustable’s to see how low they go . 9 on the back lots of room for more offset these are 15 8 and a half on the front , 15 offset too i also got some camber plates but they aren’t going to work with how i have set up the top hats , will look into that a bit later . and the nrca's are being made tomorrow so should have a trial one to fit for the weekend . so i needed to start welding up something cause i was getting restless and needed to play with some molten steel . . . this took me all of a hour. will start or the rest of the rust later on in the week

Took cross member and suspension to certifier yesterday. Got the big ok. Yay!

Yeah he is a cnc tool manufacture so can make anything with what ever thickness. I need to in see him to drop off this sample. Yeah Dont want to try and find power steering ae86 arms .that will be a bitchI think. Will just get these rcas made. Will look into sigma lca today see what I can find

Thinking about it, the nrca's i have won’t change the steering at all, as the steering stays in the same place it’s only the shock that moves. i am going to have some made up , as a good friend can do this at his shop. These are some that have been made that i have had in my garage for ages . These ones are for 85mm steering arms to 90mm shock tubes, i will have some made so i can use my ta63 (90mm) setup. Want to try them out seeing as i Have them and they wont be hard to make . will also make up some normal ones that aren’t negative camber If anyone is also looking at getting either of these let me know and i will sort out a price with my friend.

Yeah I had a bit of chat with him the other day. Just haven't put much thought into it because was having to much fun making the adjustables ha ha ha. Yeah will have to find out what works best. Don't want to much front camber cause will just make under steer etc. But also want to keep some lower arm angle hence rcas , and I have a set that are for smaller steering arm, they are nrca type . Was going to use them as a sample and have them made with a bigger bolt pattern, vague plan at best lol

Just go for normal non offset RCAs, better for steering geometry etc that way.... And less room for wide wheels with NCRCAs. Can fit longer lower arms if wanting more camber, but may as well change it at the top of the strut if you want it adjustable. Thanks for that. Is something that I haven't put allot of thought into. What are the arms that you use? And how much camber do they add? Have just bought some t3 camber tops. And I am re thinking the thread and nut combo as I have found some better suited for the job and still a good price. Will test how well these ones work and if they work well will sell them as a done finished set and make my self some new ones using the new thread and nuts.

i hate waiting for paint to dry. . . so i put the brakes togeather. hope to put the lot togeather tomorow . feels like its taken for ever to get to this stage

Yeah have had low. Low is ok if you can get your car out of your drive way . Lol. Lowest I want to go is 80 mm max . Have put a 17mm spacer below the shock and cut the rest out of the tube. So still have potential to cut and lower more. I used this sleeve for 2 reasons . One cheap and can weld at home . Secondly I wanted the thread tube to go above the cut and weld on the strut . Just for added security. Hopefully it works well and I dont have to re cut it. Got some camber tops today also . So full steam ahead

These are the coil overs so far . Hope to be making some nrca's soon to help out the lower arm once installed. Pictures speak for themselves i think Paint them next and fit the new brakes. Then install. will finish the fit up and put up pictures also .

So needed a bench and heaps of stuff for building stuff. I.e. bench grinder cut off saw, vice, drill press, sheet metal folder Long story short have made a sheet metal folder, and sold and bought allot of stuff to pay for the list of things i needed. It took a little while to gather up funds, so in the meantime i have been making my front suspension. Will post up the build of them once they are done as i think i can add to the awesome job that "Seedy Al" and "Roman" have done with their tech write up, i have used their information, but i have also changed it slightly. All will be revealed this week as i should get the tube and lock nuts that i need to finish them off. Then pictures and write up will follow

You can go below 100mm with cert. Yeah I had a carina that is certified for below 100. I sold that to fund this build. But this time I want a car that I Dont have trouble getting over speed bumps and drive ways etc. Also being 100 helps to stop getting pulled over every time to check that the car has springs . This was a huge problem with my old car. Always being bullied by the police even though the car was certified warrant and rego

awesome, i am going to use the honda springs as in Roman's thread. these shocks look good and would be nice to be able to adjust the shock. i will strip them down and see if there is a spacer below . see how much i can cut out of the tube. i plan on not going below 100mm as i will be getting wof and cert etc..

Ok just after some advice about building coil overs. I have looked at the how to thread and I have a question. I have ta63 front suspension . I have finished cleaning and painting up the brakes and now I am ready to modify the tubes and add sleeve and nuts. My question is do you need to cut out the 40 mm just so you can run with the short stroke shock absorbers? I ask this because the standard length shock I have in the tube already is a 4 way adjustable shock and I wouldn't mind keeping them if I can. But if you cut the 40mm out of the tube because the tube will be to long then I will buy shocks and keep to the original design as in the build thread.

Cross member finished and light paint to stop rust until i can get it coated And brakes almost done just looking into coil overs before i paint the shock tubes to finish of the front suspension/struts. Just a bit of a before and after pic to show how awesome the sand blaster is for cleaning up brakes. Oh and for all the Toyota people out there i found out today that the front wheel bearing are the same as trojan trailer bearing . so they are dirt cheap the seals cost more than the bearing.

so the best part about my work is that we have a little sand blaster : ) so did this today, looking good, hopefully they will do the trick , they cleaned up like new , am assembling the brakes and front shocks etc. all the kind of stuff i can take to work and do in down time. only a few days for the paint to dry now hahahhaha