1967anglia

Hi. smallfordspares.co.uk do them for 19 pound, thats around 40 each, postage isnt that much. got brake cylinder sent and postage was 3.90 pound

Have you checked that the points arent stuck open, or that there is power to them when they are open with key on.

battery postive runs to solenoid which other side of solenoid run to starter, battery neg runs to body of car and to either engine block or gearbox to engine mount bolts. Next I would say happy driving. One other thing this car is auto, it is in park???

I would go have a beer and try again once you have the earth wire back on, either to engine or gearbox housing.

But sounds like wants to stick with orignal engine. Cam swap not that big of a job on these engines, plus you need cert for 1600, not sure if they still do low volume cert. Normal cert would take more work than a cam swap.

This what I thought with mine, so replaced started motor and solenoids but still did same thing, but it all work fine on the bench thats what lead me to running the earth wire. If your start is working out of car it wont be the bushes. There seams to be a few old ford up your way with starting issues, maybe its something in the air....

I would run a wire from neg battery to mounting bolt on starter. just to make sure it is a bad earthing issues.

switch/reg=solenoid. Can bridge to connection with screwdriver if game. Will let you know if its stuffed, if works with screwdriver but not with key.

"so neg on battery an positive on the positive side of switch or reg" Do you have to neg of battery connected to start switch (shouldnt be) only to car body and maybe engine block or head.

If you have a light tester, take dissy cap off, turn on key put tester on points wire/screw turn motor over by hand, light on when points open, light goes out when points shut. Light should go on just at time mark.

Im sure I could clean up the bbq to have the pleasure of some anglias park up drive.

Usually in christchurch alot, but really want to get house finsihed so can get stuck into my anglia. But if do head that way will let you know.

Move closer to timaru and I could help you fix it.

If the motor is still ok and you use it as a daily driver, I would put a mild cam(gt30 or 234), $135 for a regrind, 28/32weber plus manifold mayber $150+ and set of extractors $50, bit of an exhaust upgrade $???. Would make it more fun to drive and not break the bank. specialy if you can put it all on and in yourself.

I had sort of same issue with mine, would work out of the car but not in. So I ran an earth wire from battery to starter mounting bolt just to see if it was an earthing issue. And is now the best start of this type I have ever heard (worked great). Remove wire and went back to click click wrrrrr.

How old are the points and coil, if old I would start with points as that will cause it to run rough, they could have been on there way out, and check that you havent fouled a plug or two.

Bit of an update. Over the last week I removed the engine, gearbox and just about everything else, expect for whats is needed to keep it moveable. Todays I started unstitched the front and have decide to unstitched most of it so can get all the rust, be nothing worse than to finish then have the joins rust out. Those are my daughters tools, she let me use them. Very helpfull Question?? Does the oil pump off a crossflow bolt straight on to pre crossflow, so I can have a normal type oil filter???

Sorry will be keeping most of the parts I have. Will mostly run downdraft carb and put sidedraft on for track days/shows and lunches.

The rust doesnt bother me, as said, "its only steel" and got plenty of it. Tring to decide if to keep the chrome strips down the side. Im 60/40 to get rid of them. ??? While im tring to find a decent garage to work in thought I work start playing around with engine upgrade idears. Found this head in back of shed, was off a 1500 stock car engine, has bigger valves than the 997 37inlet and 32 exhaust, so thought about ccing the head to same as that of the 997. Has anyone done this before to get bigger valves on the cheap??

all you need to do is put the kent flywheel/clutch on the pinto and you away. I did the same in my mk2 cortina and a mk1 escort, but the gearboxs didnt last long.

Had a good look at it the other night, very helpfully thanks. Not to bad yet, the back guards and inside of boot are in very good condition which seams odd when you see how bad the rust is in other places. I think all the work will be in the thousands of rust spots all over the car, they are just too deep to fill in with normal primer.

Have started stripping car back to steel, going to do whole car so there is no hidden surprises. Will fix small holes and primer as I go and then fix major rust damage once get a bigger garage to work in, all work is being done outside at the moment. Car is then pushed into very old and small shed. does this class as weight reduction??

cant wait to really get my hands dirty, only got lounge to finish then im all over this car. Cant really drive it as it is, no brakes no clutch. Standard not sure it will end up that way, just got a sidedraught manifold and flows for it today, and found a hot cam for apre crossflow in garage when cleaning up, not sure on spec.

Thought I better start doing some work on car now that I have started this thread. So started putting it to pieces, and when I got to taking the bonnet off didnt need to under bolts, as soon as I put min pressure on them they ripped out of the inner guard, abit more rust to fix.

Yes its the one from the coast.