mikey

Ahhhhh, yeah, so did I actually. But I can't criticise what they're doing at all, everything they've done has been fucken mint and I would've done the same thing (if I had the skillz). Not much of a brief at all actually, just told them what colours, what I wanted shaved and a few other little bits and bobs. They want to fix everything up so it's all solid before paint and shit doesn't go wrong 12 months later. And I'm pretty happy about that actually. But yeah, it's more work than I thought. On the positive side, even though I would've called my car "rust free" before, it will be _absolutely_ rust free after this. And they're so quick and good at these repairs that hopefully shit wont be mega expensive. It's a car I'm keeping forever so.....

More panel work. Two layers along here replaced and same on the other side. There's nowhere for rust to hide!

What panel beaters good sir?

Sweet, seems simple enough! haha

So does he run out of his house? This is the only address I can find, 44 Mozley Ave, Devonport. 027 491 2231 Sweet, if he does, the more back yard the better.

Ahhhh, is it possible that switch trips on both too high, and too low pressure?

Yeah, there's an expansion valve attached to the evaporator. Diaphram looking thing. Pressure switch makes sense. I can't see any other pressure switch in the setup thou, just that one. And I've taken everything from the car. Is it possible this setup just has a high pressure switch, and I run the pump until I trigger the high pressure switch, then disengage the clutch?

This is the gear I have so far, I just checked and it's all R134A, yuss! So....... how the fuck does this shit work? There's an electromagnetic clutch on the compressor yeah? When I want AC I just give that 12v I'm guessing. That little canister next to the condenser is a drier I'm guessing? It's got a couple of wires coming out of it. What are they for? A warning light once it's done it's dash?

OK Super! I'll pop out and have a yarn next week.

I would love to have have properly cold AC. But any drop in temp would help. Sitting in auckland traffic on a hot day is unbearable with a black interior. I often end out opening the door and leaning outside. It's bawls.

Yeah I totally agree, I'll hit them up for sure. Just wanted to sanity check with you guys first. Doing AC this way looks like it'll cost me fuck all. Esp compared with VintageAir. And it'll be less intrusive too; I can keep all the original heater controls and stuff.

Yep, that all sounds correct. Awesome, I'll do that since it should actually be the easiest route given everything is apart and stuff. I don't have the car to test on at the moment, but will do it all and then I'll have an excuse to pop out to the panel beaters and check up on progress! Then the next electronics project will be getting the speedo to work! But that should actually be easier since it's all micros and digital shit + stepper motor. Thanks for ya help.

If I'm honest I've already pinched all the gear from a Nissan Sentra on Sunday. The dash is out getting fixed up so it's the perfect time to sort out AC. The pump is deffo R134A, and I'm pretttttty sure the other gear is too, so should be sweet but will double check. If I'm not mistaken they can flush the other stuff out too? Anyway I'll check.

HELLO PEEPS This is my plan, pull the full air conditioning wizardry from a pick-a-part car and put it in my 240z. I'll pick a car that has a rooly simple AC system with just a button to turn AC on/off, no climate control. Probably end out using the AC pump which came with my engine. Most likely stick with the existing 240z heater unit, but swap in the blower and AC box in front of it. I'll no doubt have to bend up some new lines and stuff and buy some wacky connectors and crimping tools. Or maybe just get an AC chap to do that bit. Someone tell me why this is a bad idea. Worst thing about it is it will clutter my engine bay, but the car is so damn uncomfortable to drive in summer traffic it'll be worth it!

Ahhh right, cool. Will do.

Oh wow. Interesting. Seems so obvious. Basically wire it up like the stock coil. Cripes!

HAHA Couldn't agree more! I could move to the older circuit. And I was planning on doing that until I thought maybe I could get away with a little mod. The only little thing that bothers me about doing that is it leaves the original circuit in there and just modifies the signal. Which somehow feels dirty, and replacing the whole thing _feels_ better. Which is a fucken stupid reason really. Anyway, I'll do which ever one Ned thinks is best really. He knows a fucktonne more than me about this stuff.

HAHAH I like the thought thou!

Yeah, it's gonna be this scheme: So not much different!

Yeah, it's funny. Some of the stuff they're replacing I would've probably just lived with. But they bend up steel so fast and well that it's best just to fix everything in steel. Suits me

GT Refinishers have been doing some amazing things: They've replaced the whole lower panel of the boot. And done a fucken sweet job too. This panel is a work in progress, but has some tricksey curves.

I've fucked that up haven't I. The load needs to be collector? *Edit* you bet me. OK cool. I think that makes sense but I'll await instructions

Would I do something like the following? With the 8V VDD tied to the voltage reg. Or am I safest to have a current limiting resistor between the transistor and the IC?

The circuit I built all works, surprisingly! I took it to Ned's place of work and he hooked it up to a signal generator and it all went fine. So the question was, why doesn't it work in the car? Turns out the ignition signal to the coils is about 4V1, and the tacho circuit wont work on anything less than 3V9. After the steering diodes the voltage must be dropping below this. The current plan is to build the totally different circuit in the schematic above with the Microcontroller. However couldn't I just use a transistor on the IC input and VDD to step the input voltage up?

I very much enjoy this thing.