Shandangles

Ancillary update to the above, amended fuse box legends. Will reprint and laminate once I'm back at work in a few weeks To: That is all, for now🤣

Hello, Baby has been born and after a few days we magically we have a hour so so most nights to tinker! Over the past few nights i have been working on the drivers side "Main" fuse box, this is a bit bigger than the last box I did, and had significantly worse access and required more fluffing about to make it fit. there are 12 circuits fed from this fuse box, the new fuse boxes i bought are 10 so needed 2, luckily they lick into each other so its a pretty tight fit. I decided to split the 10th circuit over 2 fuses in the new fuse boxes as its for the 2 x AC blower motors and pulls 50A allegedly and is a leading cause of electrical fires. first step was remove the factory bracket and modify to suit the new fuse box used a bit of ali C channel and a mix of rivnuts and bolts to get everything to work Much like the other side, 1 wire at a time couple small modifications to make it all work as some wires didnt quite reach the final product!! everything appears to work as it should so happy days!!!!!!

Hola, minimal use of late as had a high pressure PS hose explode on me while out on a mission. As with everything on this car some parts are super accessible, others are absolutely horrendous. After a small amount of fanangling I managed to get both the High pressure line from pump to rack and lo press from rack to PS cooler off so I could organise replacements. I had initially thought the high pressure line would be a pain to source but my local Enzed in Brendale, Brisbane, made me a new line form scratch in about an hour for like $160. Low pressure was just a matter of finding an auto parts store that had stock as Repco / SCA are basically only light bar shops these days, they hardly have any actual mechanical parts. It would also appear the pics I took weren't amazing of this part (this is both low and high pressure, run under the sump up to the pump / cooler, all new now. I then did some wiring, first I fluffed about for an age deciding on what fuse box etc to use, once that was sorted I ordered it, then realised i mis read and it didnt have built in terminals to connect the wires to so I had to fluff about more finding the correct tyco terminals that it seems are impossible to get locally so have to be ordered in as well. This is the passengers side "smaller" fuse box, it has internal lights, cruise control and fog lights, only 5 circuits, but I dont have fog lights and cruise control doesn't wok so only 3 are actually in use. took the bracket off and "clearanced" it slightly so the new fuse box will fit and have mounting holes Swapped wires over 1 at a time Success, all in and working (incorrect rated fuses in pic as was all I had on hand, is sorted now) The drivers side has 12 fuses, the AC is notoriously un reliable due to high current draw, so ill split that over 2 circuits when i tackle that one. The Mrs is due for another baby in like 10 days so progress will likely reduce somewhat unfortunately Cheers

Car is all back together and working as of last weekend!!! My welding skills are definitely a D grade but it is definitely better then big rust holes!! I even forgot to turn the gas on for a large portion of the first repair, then proceeded to turn gas on but forgot the reg 😅 but once I figured that out it was ok!! seam goop and paint hide all horrendous welds On the passenger side I decided it was easier to just hole saw out the rust and weld in the next size hole, worked surprisingly well undersealed Buy 1 get 1 free Grommets Thats about it for now, Anchor points are all in and sorted which was the whole point of this exercise. Going to upgrade the fuse boxes to get rid of the old glass fuses next!!!

Slowly plugging away, learning as I go. Before i had the window pulled, i thought id check where the water was leaking through.....Makes sense 😅 Back to the rust repairs, cleaned it up the best I could Made my cut lines Cut my hole Made a template by holding cardboard underneath and tracing the outline, then cut the design out That's pretty much where I'm at currently, have borrowed a welder from the bro so should hopefully get it welded up this week, I'm waiting to buy some weld through primer, but everything is closed in Brisbane due to this little cyclone, its very inconvenient! Seeing as I'm making this up as i go i think its going ok. Ill hopefully tackle the square floor patch today as that is pretty straightforward, the top patch with the curved area, I'm going to plug weld the through the curved bit onto the lower skin and want to have that coated in something so its not just bare steel under there. That's the plan anyway!!!🤷‍♂️ On the passenger side the rust isn't nearly as bad so i think ill just bang a +/- 40mm hole saw through and patch that way. If any of that is retarded please let me know!!!!! i haven't fabricated / welded anything of importance for over a decade so I'm very much winging it!!!! Cheers

Hola, so as above, I decided to look into getting some child seat anchor points installed, so I made an appointment with a engineer (essentially cert man who does mods too) I decided it would be a good idea to pull all the crap out of the back so he could get a proper look at everything properly. So out came the seats, rear "parcel" tray and sound deadening etc and.......RUST 😭 Divers side Passenger Side Floor underneath the rear seat So that's a bit of a buzz kill, tho not completely unexpected. I've spent the last couple of weeks (a couple hours a week only) cleaning up the rust, organising steel and cardboard for templates and removing the fuel tank and rear window for access(sits directly below the rusty parcel tray) , I hope to have templates made and rust cut out this weekend. Also the good news is there appears to be factory child seat anchors that are already there!!! I just need to get some bolts the correct weird 40 year old english thread some sort of 5/16 Whitworth wankfest. The have these threaded posts then an approx 80mm square 3mm place welded to the underneath. The engineer we happy with what was there which is a bonus!!! Cheers

Good old Aus Post and the holiday period somewhat screwed me for my bushes arriving, one of the front subframe bushes took over 3 weeks to arrive!!!! In the interim i ordered the front subframe rear bushes and the 4 x rear subframe bushes as well, as a "while you're in there" It turns out the front (circular) bushes were super easy to change, while both the front subframe rear bushes and all 4 rear bushes were absolutely horrendous to get to. The fronts were easily the worst bolts I've ever had to access, its like Jaguar gave zero thought to the poor blokes that would have to replace them, 0 space to access, get tools in and when I managed to get a spanner on I could only get 1/100000th of a turn so they took FOREVER. But I persevered and we got it sorted for hopefully another 40 years. Turns out both front subframe rear mounts were completely shagged, well not the actual bush but the metal frame This is the drivers side front subframe rear mount in place, the 2 bolts you can see are obviously easy to access, the other bolt tot he chassis was an absolute cunt, Alt and chassis and suspension in the way!!! These are the front subframe front bushes, easy to access, just 27mm nut / bolt And the 4 x rear subframe mounts, in theory it should be easy, but even with a 3ft pry bar creating space everything was just a teeny smidge too fight so took about 4 times longer than i thought it would take and after doing all of that, I got the RWC (WOF) bloke back out and we passed with flying colors. I got plates last Friday and spent the weekend Jagging about all over the place have done about 100km without incident, Great success!!!!!! I think next on the list will be getting some child seat anchors chucked in so we can use it for family outings which will be ideal!

Since arriving up to my place in Brisbane, I've given the diff, box and engine oil changes, sorted out the headlight issue which turned out being a dicky contact on the headlight relay and tried getting a RWC which is essentially a WoF which unfortunately it failed on the 30th. due to worn front subframe bushes and has slightly chewed out front tires. So overall fuck all really, was suitably stoaked. have ordered tires and all 4 front subframe mount bushes, just waiting on auspost so bring them so I can get it sussed!! Will add more pics while refitting the bushes!!

A little bit of info about the car. Its 1984 XJS HE (high efficency) with the 5.3l v12 with approx 130,000km and has been converted to manual using factory interior bits and a later model jag Getrag 265 5 speed gearbox, this is the main reason i bought the car, The only manual V12 ill ever be able to buy. Has had a bit of suspension work (lowering and swaybars) is run by an old MOTEC M4, has a full complement of VDO gauges in place of the factory dash as well as dual 6-2-1 headers and a full exhaust. So in theory at least it should be a bit more reliable then its reputation suggests 😅 All of the work has been kept in a folder, the manual swap, suspension TWR wheels and some maintenance were all done at the same time at the cost of $36k AUD back in about 2011 😧

Its been a couple of years since my last post! I had a 986 Boxster S for a while ( https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83711-shandangles-986/#comment-2491579 ) That was great fun before my Daughter was born, However once she was here, as you can imagine a 2 seater sports car barely moved for months on end. So sometime near the end of 2022 we sold it for precisely what it owed us apart from Fuel!! Owned it for about a year, spent +/- $6000 on parts, maintenance, insurance and rego we sold it for $6000 more than we bought it for!! Cant complain about that! Like everybody the past 2 years have been absolutely hectic, the Mrs. had a knee reco, I had heart surgery, now have a 2.5 year old, with anther on the way and have just bought a commercial investment property so we haven't really had time or money for a toy, until very recently! I have been wasting countless hours on various car selling sites looking for something that tickles my fancy that the Mrs. would allow. I like wagons and with the kids and dogs I thought that would be cool, but "they all look like a hearse" was always the response. So it seemed wagons were off the table. I was back to square 1. One night I was mindlessly scrolling Carsales.com.au and stumbled across this Jag. I more or less straight away said to the Mrs. "i think this is it" amazingly she wasn't completely against the idea. So a day or 2 later I called the owner, an old bloke called James in Rural south Australia and arranged a PPI at the 1 local garage in town 🤣. I was happy enough with the results, had a couple of oil leaks, the drivers headlight wasnt working and the oil filter was from 2016 were the main bits. This was the end of October. It took about month to organise the transport from Adelaide to Brisbane etc. Turned up 3rd Dec to my place. Glorious Leaving old mate James place in Clare, SA At the Shipping yard

MORE MORE!!! Box oil was next, because who knows when it was done last, 10mm allen bolts for bung and filler, pretty straight forward really. Got about 2.7L out, unsure what it want in like but it came out like this Used Nulon 75w90 GL5 in the squeezy bags, 100% recommend!!! makes filling an absolute breeze. Got about 2.85L in. Then was onto sparkplugs, another thing I've read were a bit of a cunt to change.... Turns out is was pretty straight forward, unplug harness, 5mm allen then remove coils. The rear most plugs on both sides were as easy as can be with just a long extension. the front 2 were fractionally more difficult requiting a UJ on the passengers side and just a 6" extension on the drivers with limited movement Same plugs went in as what came out Bosch R5 FGR6KQE Still have to put the bumper back on, complete the bolt check and whip it off the jack stands, but whats the rush...

MORE!!! Fuel Filter next, have to remove 2x undertrays to get to it the filter is up in the "trans tunnel" above the coolant pipes. Big chunk of foam and a couple of small brackets unbolted to give enough wiggle room to get the filter out and it was all done.

Have 5 weeks off milking the last of the parental leave as my misses had a knee reco so went on sick leave with her work so have a little bit of time each day to do car shit. I had a list of things I wanted to do during my time off. 1) remove front bumper and clean out radiators / AC condensers of leaves as is supposed to be a big issue (it wasnt!) 2) Replace G box oil 3) Replace spark plugs 4) Fuel filter 5) bolt check from the clutch change as have done about 1000km since. The biggest pain in the ass is jacking it up, but we got there and promptly ripped the bumper off. 30 mins to have jacked up, 15 mins to get bumper off...... According to the internet leaves and shit get in the radiator ducts and can cause the aluminum to rot away so regular cleaning is important. Turns out there were basically no leaves in wither rad duct. But its clean now.. More to come when I get a minute!!

This was all complete before we went in to the hospital for the induction on the Friday night. Turns out that particular Friday was Crazy busy in the birthing ward and "elective" procedures like inductions were put off so I had the Saturday to finish her off. The father in law helped get the box back in by driving the jack which made life significantly easier, the box literally slid straight back on first try, I was stunned. . Then it was just box mounts, half shafts, the angle bracing, shifter cables and undertray. I didn't quite get it 100% finished before baby was born, it needed about an hour and was all done. All told it was about 6 hours to disassemble, 5 hours doing AOS, o2 sensors, IMS bearing and clutch etc and about 4 hours Re-assemble. Total of about 15 hours driving to driving which I was pretty bloody happy with. That's about where we are up to now. Have done about 500km since everything has been finished with no dramas. Which isn't really enough use to justify keeping it in my mind, I'm constantly looking for something cool but more family orientated but who knows. I have a wagon fetish so there's a couple of old HZ ish wagons tickling my fancy currently as well as a X3 Cressida I like in my price range, we can only dream right. I still really enjoy my bi-weekly Porsche drives lol I also chucked some black LED indicators at it straight off Aliexpress because orange is shit. Other than possibly chucking some spacers on and then forcing myself to lower it a touch its about finished. Dilemmas

Nest step was to "lock" the cams in place as to release tension off the IMS shaft i needed to remove the hydraulic chain tensioners. Another internet super scare is the cam timing jumping without locking the cams. The IMS kit cam with 2 camshaft locking tools, 1 for the 3 chain and 1 for the 5 chain engines. The difference being on the 3 chain both cams on each bank are driven off 1 chain with the 3rd going from crank to IMS, on the 5 chain only 1 cam is connected to the crank then the other cam is joined to the driven cam in a master/slave type arrangement. Some places said I only needed to lock 1 bank, others said both, so I made up a locking tool by copying the supplied one in the kit just to be safe. Unfortunately I only took this horrendous pic of the home made lock installed Next was rip the RMS out Now I was a numpty and didn't take any pics of the original IMS bearing in situ or the puller attached but as it turns out the original bearing was mint which was devastating . This is essentially how it comes out though, threaded puller onto the ims threaded shaft, and wind the sucker out! You can see here on my recently removed bearing the little clip that holds it in place, you need to apply quote a bit of tension to overcome the clip holding it in which made a hell of a crack once it snapped out. Dam near shat myself!!! I took the Dust cover off to inspect, everything was absolutely perfect. What is believed to be the cause of the failures is the engine oil over time washes out the factory installed grease and due to the lack of oil supply to the bearing the balls eventually fail. Generally speaking cars with over 100k on the original are going to be fine (internet hearsay) and low mileage are more of a rick as lots of sitting / drying out of bearing etc No pics of installing the new bearing, essentially just gets smacked in. All installed. You can see its slightly off centre so I couldn't get the new cover on. Everyone's favourite unit Mr Andrew Baird came over and provided an additional hand to get the job done We ended up taking the 3rd cam tensioner off the front end of the engine which lives under the AC pump, was an absolute cunt to get back in. The new bearing is a Ceramic Ball type, apparently much better suited to this situation. It also comes with only 1 dust seal on the engine side to aid in oil draining. Next step was battling with the new "spirolock" clip thing, what an absoloute fuckup of a design. Took WAY longer than it should have to get done. Retaining flange in

Might be something I have to look at then?? I don't remember seeing anything about the angle of them in the box they came in but it may well have been there!! I was surprised how tidy it was in there too. The steel cables seem to be a "just in case" last resort to hold the engine in if the mounts fail or something. You can see they attach to the rear crossmember with 2 bolts in the pics of the flywheel etc etc The parts arrived!!!!!! On the thursday Thursday, Misses was booked in for an Induction of labor on the Friday night so It wasnt looking good. I was hoping to get the IMS done and flywheel on at least...I had that done before she went in as I took the Friday off work. Couldnt spend all day on it as all sorts of family were here so had to deal with them. The IMS removal / Install Kit with my jerry-rigged flywheel strap and additional cam lock tool.

Its been nothing too extreme in the scheme of things but I was definitely hesitant. Ha, not even close to being able to afford any 911 unfortunately, can dream. Was either a Boxster or a 924/944 and the convertible was easier to get over the line with the misses I the proceeded to part ways with $3400 AUS for a new clutch, flywheel, IMS bearing and IMS removal / install tool. Thankfully Pelican Parts hah a proper "everything required" clutch kit with stuff like pressure plate bolts, flywheel bolts, RMS etc which made life significantly easier that it could have been. While all the bits were being packed and shipped I thought I'd do some more maintenance but purchase parts locally to fill in the time. Regular stuff like oil and filter, and some slightly obscure stuff like replacing the Air Oil Separator which is like a factory catch can type of thing. While dropping the oil I collected some and sent it off to be analysed, came back ok, recommended going to slightly thicker oil which was done. I decided to whip the bottom of the sump off for a nosey while I was under there. These little bits were stuck to the oil pickup, slightly concerning....... I think the big white bits are from the chain tensioners, the metal?????who knows, was alloy from memory??? Next issue was the Air Oil Separator which lives at the top of the drivers side bank at the top, it was an absolute ballache to replace without the box in the way, I can imagine doing it with the box in there. First step was to put the car into "service mode" this involves half opening the roof, un hooking the roof tension cables and removing the top engine cover through the clam shell opening. I had to do this anyway to remove the cabin engine cover to put everything at TCD etc. The AOS in its correct orientation From memory it has 4 connections, the big one from the drivers side head (white rag) 1 that goes though the block somewhere and 2connect to hoses I think. I also replaced both O2 sensors and relocated them slightly further down so the could read all 3 cylinders, previously they were in a bung slightly further up the header but only reading 1 cylinder. Did this help, I don't know but it seems a logical step. TBC...

More weekend driving duties commenced. The clutch was always a bit shit. It had precisely Zero feel, I would stall it every single time I drove it without fail. I wasn't entirely sure if it was the car or me as the Misses had no issues driving it. Eventually it decided to cease living while pulling out of a local repco. Anything above keeping up with traffic levels of acceleration would cause it to slip. This left me with a bit of a dilemma. Do I repair it myself or pay some mob to do it. Do i Replace the infamous IMS bearing at the same time or wing it (is located behind flywheel)? This was at the start of march, with the baby due start of may so either way I had approx 2 months to sort it as "car time" would be drastically reduced upon babies arrival. I got a couple of quoted from reputable independent Porsche garages in the region of $6k which I thought was a bit excessive, but I had the "its a formally very expensive European sports car surely it'll be too complex for my 80s corolla level of mechanical aptitude" running through my head. After a week of pondering I decided id give it a crack. I also decided to do the IMS bearing while I was in there for peace of mind. What is the IMS you ask???? IMS stands for ‘Intermediate Shaft’, and the IMS bearing supports the intermediate shaft, on the flywheel end of the motor. The purpose of the intermediate shaft is to drive the camshafts indirectly off the crankshaft. By using an intermediate shaft, the speeds of the chains are reduced, which is better for the chain life. This basic design was used through the entire lifespan of aircooled six-cylinder Mezger engines used through to 1998. The inclusion of an intermediate shaft which drives the camshafts indirectly off the crankshaft has been a mainstay of the horizontally-opposed flat 6 engine utilised by Porsche. These bearings thanks to the internet have a horrendous reputation of failing causing a complete loss of the engine. The reality is the early cars 1997-2000 with the dual row bearing have a 1% failure rate and the later cars 2000-2007ish have approx a 8% failure rate as per the American class action law suit that was taken against Porsche. As my car was on the cross over year I couldn't order parts until I pulled it apart to assess. Parts were coming from Pelican parts in the states so shipping etc was going to be slow so it was looking very sketchy I could get the job dine before baby came. Into the garage for disassembly we went After a about 6 hours over a few nights faffing about underneath figuring out what had to come off etc I had the mammoth transaxel sitting on the floor off with the dual mass flywheel the infamous IMS bearing lives behind this little Dorito flange The car has pretty good service records but no mention of ever having a clutch which makes sense that it was cooked at 125km. Had to clean 22 years of clutch schmutz off I actually ended up getting the water blaster under there, shit was spotless. While I was under there, there was a pleasant surprise (again not in the service records) Some nice stainless headers and de-cay mid pipes. still standard rear muffler tho. Either way its a nice bonus. With all of that done I was able to ascertain I needed the larger (earlier) dual row bearing as the indent on the bearing flange is much shallower than the single row. I also found the dual mass flywheel was cactus so unfortunately had to add that to the shopping list. TBC...

A Few more pics from the first roady After this it was any excuse to get "him" out and about. The old Boxster is surprisingly practical with the regular boot and Frunk. Had to update the 22 year old headunit to something with bluetooth at a minimum. Matched colours is a bonus

After a wasted youth dicking about with old corollas morphed into a decades long dry spell of no fun cars, cut to being mid ish 30s…….back in November after much persuading and assurances of money in = money out etc etc the misses let me buy a Porsche when she was approx 4 months pregnant so we could have some fun before baby arrived. The car in question turned out to be a 2000 986 Boxster S 6 speed, blue over tan with 123961km. We picked it up and immediately went on a weeks long road trip up to the Hervey Bay / Bundaberg region of QLD. Was a roaring success, apart from a bit of leg sunburn. Who thinks to put sunblock on their legs while driving more to follow

I hope you have good earmuffs. That induction noise will be ruthless in the cabin 10/10

ahhh i remember when i fitted simis to my car for the first time too......absolute gold!!!! i reckon they'd be worth the equivalent of 20% extra power easily, proper slicks that factor again, easily. I had 230 rwhp 4agte and was getting completely smashed by 160 whp 4k starlets etc

fenix are made locally iirc

if they are they are the same hub as X70, you can use R31 Nissan hubs as they use the same bearings, you have to re drill the hubs but its possible to due to a differrent design than toyota hubs. From memory the Nissan 4 pot calipers bolt on too.

unfortunately the multi meter i have here is worth about $2 to no good for that sort of thing. CEL isnt hooked up unfortunately, main engine earth is good. hopefully try another ECU tomorrow, if that doesnt sort it i donno, cheap ae85 anyone? / sit in garage for another 6 months / year till i come back over