Esky_addict

Yeah getting no codes only 12, even when regulator failed and was overcharging. I will pull coils and check underneath them. One has a crack down one side i noticed. Is there anyway to check a coil?. Trucks running good as when cold but almost has a slight hint of a bog down under acell when warm. Still havent done plugs and leads yet.

done a bit more digging, has same switch\diagnostic light as found on marks4wd.com. the fan came on when diagnostic light was pressed as part of it going into diagnostic mode. Next question is has anybody done of know of anyone that's done a conversion with a www.marks4wd.com kit. Im not sure if the fans are supposed to come on automatically or if they need a switch.

Also just noticed a black box under passenger carpet about 100mm square with a green led in the middle. Anybody know what that will be?

Not to sure aye i brought it converted. Any way to tell?

Theres a wee push button switch understeering wheel which has a light in it. I think the light is hooked up to the check engine light. It flashes none stop and ive read that it could be ecu on way out will swap that out tonight

So yesterday when I left work I put my foot down in the surf skidded up through first hit second and it kept on pulling so while cold it goes apeshit. After a couple minutes running its back to running like a 2.8.

Oh yeah i had like 14 volts at the ecu. Miss has dissapeared maybe stale fuel? Still feels kinda down on power but runs faiely smooth if that makes sense. Will invest in some plugs and leads when the wallet allows

So what your saying ofinsiv is find the main power supply for this, and check the voltage using the closest earth.

Im a bit retarded with this new fangeld early 90s technology. Is ecu the box that normally resides in the passenger footwell?

Right! back on track after my wee debacle in general talk. I have a surf with a 3.8 in it was running like shite so I swapped out the alternator that fixed it mostly (actually runs allright now). However its gotta bit of a stumble just off idle like when im taking off which is a right c*%t in a manual, and when the foots down it a bit sluggish. Being a 3.8 in it I imagine it should go like a cut cat. Also I notice that when the electric fan is on it the miss is more obvious so I just leave it off.

are those wheels still permitted in hq series?

That was the first thing I tryed as a mate had a VN in our younger days and the "S" wire had failed/Blown fuse somewhere back the loom. Im thinking that there isn't enough power to keep the engine running which Is why im thinking alternator. Just chucked a multimeter on and battery volts are 11.5 so have removed alternator to get checked out.

yeah had a quick squizz at the earths. Was supposed to say have no voltage on the s wire i had it plugged in. Will whip it off tomorrow and take it to get tested. The other kicker is that the factory volt meter reads around 14 volts and doesent drop away down when accessories are turned on.

ok. i have nothing on the sense wire and no mutimeter to check it with. It starts and idles then when i turn the electric fans and the lights on it idles rough.

Hi all ill just aqcuired a surf with a 3.8 in it and it starts and idles fine but sputters and farts around when taking off. I think that the alternators poked but dont have a multimeter only a test light and when i put it on the "S" terminal of the alternator there is no life. Should that be live?

Yeah i thought as much ive probebly bent it a bit already. Ill see gas cut might be the next step. Cheers

Oh yeah so just need pressed out? The mate im doing them for kinda wanted to keep centres off possible but theyre ugly as three spoke looking things anyway so would be no great loss.

Cant find any aye steelies but theres gotta be some there. lol that's what I normally do, dril out the spot welds and whack em out with a big hammer and a block of wood. next step is to grind the paint off right round the outside and sit it outside then hopefully the rust will show any circles from spot welds. Got me stumped at the moment lol.

Not keen on cutting band as they are the ones im using to widen another set, if that makes any sense. They dont look like there "homemade" but they are 14x8 roh barrels so maybe theyve been made by the likes of elite or somebody. Not sure how they make theres.

Ive widened a few set of steelies before but always used agrims, This time im using another set of 14x8 steels as doners for barrels but am having a nightmare trying to get them out. Looking from the back of them they are held in by four stitches around the center and no plug/spot welds evident. Ive cut the stitches and tried to hit them out as I normally would even tried a gentle squeeze in the press still not go. Anyone else here had this problem? Workmate reckons they could of been heated and pressed in but even still they should still come out with some decent force.

yeah kinda thinking about going the fuse route now, can anyone recommend a decent fuse and holder.

sweet as, got a pinto in it I wouldn't bother either but rather be on the safe side and the cable is a about 150mms short so makes a good excuse for a join lol. Got the cable running through firewall directly behind starter then across the floor to the boot, and using heavy as welding cable.

Im moving the battery to the boot of my mk2 escort and am not sure what kind of circuit breaker id need. How many amp breaker should I be looking for?

I know this has been covered in here but with a few varying answers. So what is the best way to prove ownership of a dereged car .

That's awesome fourfingapete, im buying a HQ with lapsed reg, but also has a set of plates on hold with it. I think ill just rereg now that I see that you can keep the black plates. Mayswell keep it original if I can easily.