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Posts posted by 1vaknd
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the shell its mint its just the valance and bonnet that are rotten which I have spares, container has vents on the doors (facing the prevailing wind) and a whirly bird on the back end of the roof
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Organising long term projects and parts
Got a lucky streak as @AE25 knew a guy that worked for a company that needed to clear out their old shelving. It's amazing how much stuff you can fit in a 40ft high cube
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Long time no update, unemployed life has got me busier than ever. I’ll start where we left off and chuck up what little photos I took along the way
finished the sump, no photos of rubber flappy baffles bat it’s all in there. Ended up with an extra 200ml of volume and a sump that’s above the crossmember so a bash plate can be fitted(yet to make)
Before the engine got thrown back in I tidied up the wheel tubs and the recessed firewall
Had to do the clutch as dual mass flywheels aren’t ideal. Let alone when there is 30°-40° of slack in the stock flywheel. Aftermarket single mass setup was a fuck around as the flywheel didn’t seat on the crank properly. Anyway sorted that out and fired the engine in the hole. Mocked up the rear of the headers. Before sending it down to Stu at Precision Wiring Solutions.
let’s just say, he’s an absolute wizard and worth every penny. Factory ecu and speedo cluster were reverse engineered to make everything work. Only thing we couldn’t do was the fuel guage so just used a vdo sender and guage. We got the engine fired up while it was there and checked everything over.
sorted the fuel tank to run the factory pump in a surge tank setup which it a part of the main tank to minimise lines used, and just a high flow low pressure vdo lift pump feeding the main pump
got the rear wheel tubs all welded in and tidied up
I managed to talk mike Shaw into knocking out an n2 kit so that was promptly fitted moments after getting home from collecting itAnd then there is the plethora of other jobs required to get the the car to the point where the car can be “safely” Driven . Having the power company cut the power to replace poles from 9am-3pm the day before you’re meant to be on track puts a spanner in the works, none the less. My ambitious nature got there in the end!
Tux chucked a vid together as we managed a bit of an Oldschool takeover at the cjc jerkfest day
all in all the car went bloody well for a first outing. So much fun to drive and so snappy. Need to get the brakes working better, hydro actually working and new coils to hopefully fix the random hesitation from the motor that seems to happen at the sketchiest of times.
plans? Well getting my life sorted out after taking redundancy from fonterra. Get all my stuff (shit) into a container to clear the workshop ready for fabrication and customer work. It will be on the back burner for a while until business is up and running, then I can sort the odds and sodds on this and give it a lick of paint!
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So I’ve been chipping away over the past weeks. So much done but still so much to do!
Managed to get the whole rear end dialed
Just need to cap the upper arm boxes (can’t decide if I should make removable or just weld them on)
Caliper brackets made and calipers mounted
Made a start on the sump as the factory lower pan would have sat 40mm lower than the crossmember
made an intake pipe by stretching a 3” tube over a 3”-5” sch40 reducer. Bit of grease and the press did the job
Trying to decide header layout also
Fixing up some back yard rust repairs, it’s only a seat time car but you gott make it look good atleast once
So I’m getting there slowly. Going to try get fuel tank/lines in and dump done by next week as the loom should be ready to put in then. Will be good to fire it up.
with only 5 days left of regular employment, the aim is to get this completed before my nomadic stint in the bush over summer
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this would be a bit of me knowing more than id like to admit about speed flow, shame about the location, the days of burning away hours in traffic are over for me
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uncracked dash? how tidy are the chrome bumpers/endcaps? what front end?
all play a part in value these days
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length of steering arm will only adjust the speed the wheels turn vs input (which also changes force applied to turn the wheels, longer =easier, shorter = harder)
ackerman is based on drawing imaginary parallel lines down the sides of you "vehicle" intersecting the lower pivot of your king pin angle. moving the steering mount location, inboard or outboard of this will change your ackerman
being front rack you want to move the mounts outwards so that the steering mount intersects the lower king ping piviot and aims towards the centre of the rear axle for optimal turning
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also, most of the rare spares parts dont come close to fitting so track down originals if you can, still quite alot of ke3#/ke5# parts in aus
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they were built with alot of aussie parts, brake calipers are girlock aswell. thas chrome sill trim is an aus spec thing also.
you will find that the roof kin is roller pinch welded like how fuel tanks are made vs jap assembled spot welds. if you ever have to pull the axles out make sure you order a seal/bearing kit as they tend to leak if you dont replace the seal
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On 05/07/2020 at 17:14, ajg193 said:
Modified and rebuilt a toyota k series electronic distributor for a friend today.
His engine is rather modified, so he doesn't use vacuum advance. I just made a plug with an arm on it, locking vacuum advance.
It's based on a commercial engine 5k distributor so has a bearing instead of a bushing, this should make it more reliable.
Some measurements indicate it should give 24 crankshaft degrees of mechanical advance at top end - so he should be good if he sets base timing at around 10 or 11
Yay for Milty!
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the te37 tail lights were prepped by kiwi metal polishers also, some dude called guy is the fulla to yarn too apparently
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nice. i love the aus spec interior with ashtrays in the rear passenger cards,
looks tidy for the price
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car colours are actual legends, i deal with with them often
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that is some beautifully tight radius bends for the shock hoops! who did you go through to get them bent up?
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not at the moment. but i can get some. ke3# mounts are the easiest to use as they are a smaller bracket than all others ie;AE86,KE70
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"Fermentation is the most common method for producing fuel ethanol. The most common ethanol production processes today use yeast to ferment the starch and sugars in corn, sugar cane, and sugar beets. ... Because alcohol is made by fermenting sugar, sugar crops are the easiest ingredients to convert into alcohol." from dr google pants
fonterra make it stripping the lactose from milk, the lactose being the sugar component of milk.
we use the 2nd hand 1t grain bags for various sorts of rubbish at work and their first life they were used for granulated lactose (looks like sugar) so they must strip alot out of the milk.
ps, no help at all with e85 purchasing
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i jsut want to have fun, thats all.it may not be built with a big fancy turbo and all the e-fame attachments, but i have alot more fab skills and knowledge these days so heres to a good laugh and many grassroots motorsport days to come.
also working in the garage,garden is the only way my brain isnt in engaged in overdrive, its my own kind of therapy i guess.
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On 13/05/2020 at 12:59, JoKer said:
Love the "just do it" attitude for this car
I see the Mad awd March is up for sale on FB too (too many haters?)
i takes a certain quality in someone to be hated by the masses, crashing at hamptons while out on a hotlap in a completely untested car. then trying to sue the track is a good way to fire up the hate train
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So I took a week or so off work going into level 3 lock down. Yay, get heaps done! Well nah, a lack of motivation turned up, kicked me in the dick and wasted most of my time off staring blankly at all of the things in the garage and around the house that needed attention.
anyway I managed to get some things done all be it at a snails paceUp on stands so I can get all the rear end fab done. Will probably make rear section of the exhaust while I’m there and get the fuel tank made and installed.
back to work tonight so I’ll bugger around and get the laser cutting drawings sent off to hopefully collect in around a weeks time. Hopefully it all goes together quickly.
wiring man is happy to use stock ecu and engine loom so this will keep costs down.
also scored bucket seats and harnesses for a steal so stoked about that
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the process you mentioned for deoxidine is correct except ive only ever used water not metho, the protective layer is minimal and wont hold up if the car is left outside overnight. if the deoxidine goes powdery you havent washed it off enough before drying. if the manel gets a rusty orange haze you havent dried it fast enough, you are after a rainbow haze over the bare steel
best to strip, send to blasters. get it home. spend a whole day with a vacuum and an air gun. then deoxidine, then lay some quality etch yourself
Random slightly cool stuff you built but not worth its own thread, thread
in Other Projects
Posted
not sure what it was for, my mate has the same one on his subaru brumby, so who knows