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Posts posted by azzurro

  1. All of those are good - plenty of interesting driving on the peninsular - out to Allans etc.

    Mrs was keen to take the Wagon up the Pig Root to the big opshop in Ranfurly one time in summer, but that may be a bit far for a convoy, it is a nice driveing road.


    Also agree we should assemble for a guard of dishonour/bring parts/snags for the shitbox rally

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  2. @doullama@ul9601 is right, you need special shouldered bolts for the Wards.

    Can measure mine if you want, but you may need to 'make' some from shouldered nuts, and high tensile bolts with the head cut off and a blob of weld or loctite to hold them together as they are very hard to find new (ebay?)  let alone second hand. 

    I also have plastic hub rings on mine too and that tidied up a lot of the 'wheel balance' shake i had before.

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  3. Would add Euro-Italian Car Parts in Albany to your list - Gavin is a top bloke and sometimes puts lollies in the courier packet.

    Mal has sold Dino Enterprises, have not bought anything from the new guy yet, other than letting him know i had a new project (1100T) and if he had ANY bits that suited it at all, to let me know - he replied asking for a list of what i needed and i said, well at least one of everything, unfortunately no response :)  Take my $$$$, gosh! - not gonna force the man to make a sale or take my money, but that right there is more $ than i care to add up that have gone to ebay and youshop instead of a local speciality business.

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  4. Im no engine guy, but that bottom end and pcv suggests its got lots of blow by to me, and or run (not just sat) without regular oil changes. Maybe lots of short runs and long sitting could do it?.

    OTOH The outside (clean yellow zinc plating on the inlet studs?) and coolant passages look pretty clean. 

    Hows the cam boxes look - blackened and burned like the sump or clean alloy?

    These engines are pretty stout, but if you dont want to take off the head, then just clean out the gunk, and slap it back together with some fresh gaskets and paint and keep an eye out for another engine to build. At least it runs-ish?

    I would probably also whip the head off too, just to inspect and clean those grody valves up, and replace the stem seals - a full gasket set is only ~$100.  


    Then give it a proper italian tune up and the gummy rings will probably bed right back in :)



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  5. 2 hours ago, nzstato said:

    The 80s were a funny time in housing design.... everyone wanted a 'modern' look but with crappy materials

    Exhibit B, 1981 reno of a then 20yo house, added new aluminium windows including the popouts on the front, aluminium porch, and downstairs bar. Aggressively shitty workmanship to pack out the walls behind the bar reno cladding, and absolutely no insulation installed.

    Added another layer of lino to the original stuff that covers rimu floorboards


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  6. 6 hours ago, Nominal said:

    I had been told there was one in Balclutha that was good too, could be the Gore guy, maybe.

    Worst case is if i need to get the repairs done by a shop 'approved repairer', thats a hard nope.

    Hopefully i can show that im not a total numptie (IMO!) and "have the skill and knowledge to competently perform the repairs required" as most of the rust is actually pretty simple stuff like door bottoms and floor sections, no real structural stuff (except for the A pillar maybe) and whcile i dont want to set myself up for 3 more vehicles worth of repair certification, pretty confident ive got the skills and equipment to make a kwalitee fix

    An approved repairer will have the skills and knowledge required to competently perform the repairs required. The repairer must have the correct equipment to perform the repairs necessary. The certifier will include all the repairer’s details in a file.

    • Thanks 2
  7. Thanks Chaps,

    I think i may just leave it for now, and do what the man wants later. 


    Once i have a man. (recommendations for south island repair cert folk?) 

    I should really make a start on the paper work too. 


    RE Weather, since i am a massive dork, i have previously prepared this:

    Top graph shows Dunedin is consistently ~4deg cooler, but has significantly less rainfall in winter and is less humid.

    Second graph also shows that its somehow less sunny as well, but I recon its way sunnier (im on the Mosgiel side of the hill tho) , and way less windy than Auckland.

    Also the sun is way hotter feeling when its out, but the air being less humid doenst hold the heat the same.


    Dun vs Akl weather.JPG

    • Thanks 2
  8. spinning a diff is a small but nonzero load + a hefty chunk of unsprung weight that is super easy to loose, it all adds up

    Could hook up a diff axled trailer to some sort of PTO shaft and have (the capability for) a 6wd contraption?

    But unless you are gonna do that just take the centre out or modify it somehow like clint suggested - maybe double check how the axles are retained first! 

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