Ridal

I replaced the heater core, removing the dash, and have since not been able to get the fuel and coolant temp gauges working. The coolant temp needle will flick to off the scale hot after a couple of seconds of power and will flick back to the 'off' position when the sender is disconnected. The fuel gauge constantly reads empty despite having a full tank. Does anyone know a possible cause or what things I should be checking? Thanks, James.

You could have a look: http://www.toyodiy.com/ up in here. http://www.toyodiy.c...ACMQF_4803.html http://www.toyodiy.c...21‑14070 &mG=on Cross reference shows the same strut being used in *T140 Coronas but not the Supra. I'm not sure if this strut uses the vented disc or not. I think if you have a good browse you could figure it all out. I'm pretty sure the MA60 struts are different though because of the wider chassis, different top hat position, and LCA length. I think the stub axles angle is different but I can't remember whether it's more or less angle. Is the knuckle bolt spacing not the same on the MA60 as the *A60 Carina struts? Pretty sure it's 89mm in the *A60 Carinas. I'd give T3 an email. From my experience they're happy to inform you if they have something to suit your parts or not. I'm interested in these knuckles also so post up what you find out.

Perfect. That's a really good point. I'm sure people have had some success with the urethane sandwich but it sounds like solid engine mounts with rubber gearbox mount is the way to go. I can always change back to factory if they are hell. Thanks for the up to minute ruling to. Simon, would solid mounting not help the drivetrain feel more positive? I may end up going for some harder rubber mounts but I want to try solid first and go from there. Fortunately they're very easy to change.

I'm leaning towards solid mounting so the bike shock wouldn't be necessary but it looks good in your engine bay. Does it do much work? I went in to see Simon at Surfab today and I think I'll get him to make me some solid numbers.

Would solid mounting the engines cause extra stress at any point? Would the cast inlet manifold be more likely to crack or anything like that? I'd like to solid mount it if there was no added risk of breaking things.

Ok well I may call in there tomorrow and see what they have to say. I'll report back in case anyone else is in the same boat.

Ok I think I will make some kind of mount higher up the block or head, possibly with the rear bike shock. Would it be possible to remove the vulcanised rubber, drill the steel plate to accept a bolt and get a block of urethane and sandwich it in place of the vulcanised rubber?

I've seen that as well. Looks like they could work quite well but I'd probably fell better if the block was also held to the chassis a bit tighter. I imagine it would increase the feel of the engine/make more noise but that doesn't bother me.

KA67 Carina + 5K. Currently the engine moves about quite a lot and I have already broken one manifold side mount. The standard mounts are made of two steel plates joined by vulcanised rubber. I will be installing side drafts and a bigger cam soon and the clearance between the carbs and strut tower will be small. What would be some options for stiffening up the engine mounts? I don't mind an increase in cabin noise or vibrations at all, just something that will stop the airbox/trumpets from being crushed and hopefully a tighter feeling driveline in general. What are peoples thoughts on a separate engine damper? Necessary if your mounts are good? Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Last year as well.

I saw this the other night. I was trying to get a glimpse at the wheels but never got close enough. It definitely made me double look. It's not often you see a cool looking ke70. Good luck with the build.

Yea I found the foot well/tunnel stuff was maybe 10mm and beneath the rear seats was maybe 2mm. And you're right, the dry ice worked a treat on the thin stuff. Just regular hammer and chisel worked fine for me.

Carina wag. I've heat wrapped the headers back to the flange which goes back quite far. It mustn't get too hot otherwise that tar deadening stuff would deform/melt and mine looked to be un-melted?

I don't know if your being sarcastic but I am looking forward to more noise.

^I want to go fast. Got the dry ice and went at it. The dry ice sublimed away but I still had the tunnel to do and I found out it was just as easy if not easier to get off without the dry ice. I could get really big bits off because it wasn't so brittle. So far I have removed 12kg and have the boot to go. So I guess the deadening + carpet will be around 20kg.

That's a good idea. I don't think there is any of that composite boarding stuff on the firewall though. It seems to just be rubber with recycled mattress fluff? I'll find out anyway. I'll get the dry ice.

Ok cool. I'll try the chisel first and get dry ice if it's needed. So is the rubber/fluff mat ok to remove as well?

I've read that about the tar kind of stuff but this is like a composite board so will hopefully come up without breaking.

My heater core broke so I pulled the dash out. I pulled a bit of the carpet up and found the sound deadening in board form so I want to remove it - it looks heavy. Has anyone come across this type before? Any tips on removal? It seems to be stuck down quite well but I haven't yet had a good go at them. Looks like: Also, does the rubber/fibre mat on the firewall serve any other function than sound insulation? Any tips are appreciated.

I'm mega keen for ruapuna. I signed up to motosoc but never got out there. They had a drift/grip day not long ago which would have been tops. What are the rules on sliding around ruapuna on private track days?

Opawa garage do pretty good warrants. By good I mean they give you one.

No this is in the Corona sedan. Hmmm that would make sense. Would that cause a vibration though? It's strange how it is loudest/thumpy at low speeds both accelerating and decelerating, clutch in and out. I'm pretty sure the exhaust is in contact with the body as well which I will try sort out tonight.

Two piece T series drive shaft. Slightly compressed springs + shortened shocks - Slight vibration noise in 1st and a faint vibration at higher speeds Lowered rear -50mm - Loud vibration noise in 1st and some 2nd plus slightly louder vibration at higher speeds. At some speeds/rpms the vibration would resonate. Lowered rear -25mm - Really loud vibration, thumping noise in 1st and some 2nd. noticeable vibration during cruise. It sounds close to the uj from the cabin but can't be sure. Does this sound familiar to anyone? It doesn't sound good. I had a feel of the donut bearing/bush and it feels pretty loose. But after installing lower rear suspension (-25mm) today the noises increased very noticeably. So would this be a problem with the pinion angle? I haven't got an adjustable panhard rod yet but would that cause these symptoms? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I do enjoy beer. PM me the details.

Do you need them picked up and sent to you? Or held for a time?