nzstato

I take it this area was originally lead wiped? Have you considered fibreglass filler or metal impregnated filler (i.e. newtech), it would be less likely to crack compared to a sealer or regular bog

so want one of those morris bread vans

J type Morris

who doesn't

Fuuuck yes. I know where a fairly solid one in a shed in central otago that i pine to make mine at some stage.

where?

*insert tui ad*

maayte. Ya dreamin.

If you are ever in Golden bay there is one sitting on the side of the road as an Ad for a cafe on the road out to Tata beach, just past Pohara

Why the L33? Just curious as it is not really a common conversion, L33 were only made for a few years if I remember correctly so might not be the easiest thing to source

http://www.energysafety.govt.nz/upload/33458/ecp51v18.pdf

Even got a few 'how to's to wire stuff up

^ Pretty much true, you can do as much as you like as long as you don't touch the Fusebox. Still get a sparky to sign it off though.

^^ no offense yowzer but that's not really good advice.

Moisture and impurities in the fuel are causing issues the world over - not just in NZ. NZ's diesel has been cleaned up significantly with the introduction of low-sulfur diesels too, bringing it into line with European standards. As Japan doesn't have such high emission standards on diesel engines, Japan is still running a higher sulfur content fuel and therefore the older Japanese diesels did not cope so well with worn out or semi-worn out seals suddenly not being lubricated so well with low-sulfur fuel. Newer common rail models from Japan are fine with low-sulfur fuel.

I remember when this happened. I lost count of the number of injector pumps I attended to in one summer. Toyota ones weren't so bad and you could do them while still in the truck (only a few seals). A few nissans needed the pump pulled and sent away for a rebuild.

That's a decent price for a stroker kit, as long as it is not a 'pro comp' brand, stay away from that and the seller on TM which goes by the name 'v8parts', its all rubbish.

How come the 308 is sporting only a 2bbrl intake?

Buy this

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/holden/engines/auction-452053032.htm

I have a 600 4 barrel holley here that needs rebuilt you can have for free and can sell ya a rebuilt bosch electronic dizzy if ya want it.

I take it you are wanting to shift the position of the steering knuckle as well? Is there not enough meat on the arm to mill a flat section and drill a hole. Otherwise I see no reason why you cant do he welding on a track car, getting them crack tested would be a good bet too. What where you intending to weld them with? Mig/tig/arc/gas?

Guy I met a month or so ago has been doing quick restores on falcons/valiants or anything old over the past 18 months to get enough coin for a house deposit. Has completed 11 cars last year. Buy for $6-8k, $2k paint/fix up. Sell for $14-16k. But like Dane said above, he has contacts for parts and is pretty careful about buying a decent (but shabby) car to start off with.

In general, cars will be the cheapest they will ever be when they are 20-25 yrs old. There are a whole crop of 80s-early 90s jappas which you could make a fortune on in 5-10yrs if you felt inclined...

if this is true^^ (i don't really doubt it) then i'm impressed. i dream about 'doing up' rotarys from the 70s..

This is his latest creation

The A35 has such a narrow track?

I have a mazda 1200 ute chassis and steering etc if thats any use. skinny as it gets but standard front drum. can make other brakes fit the stub easily enough though

Hmm, that is something I had not considered. May have to rock round with the tape measure one day and see if it's a goer.

I have a feeling that it has the owners name in the caption, sadly I've thrown my copy away.

Guy I met a month or so ago has been doing quick restores on falcons/valiants or anything old over the past 18 months to get enough coin for a house deposit. Has completed 11 cars last year. Buy for $6-8k, $2k paint/fix up. Sell for $14-16k. But like Dane said above, he has contacts for parts and is pretty careful about buying a decent (but shabby) car to start off with.

In general, cars will be the cheapest they will ever be when they are 20-25 yrs old. There are a whole crop of 80s-early 90s jappas which you could make a fortune on in 5-10yrs if you felt inclined...

This is in this months petrolhead, photographed at some car show up north.

So here's how it resides at the moment

And here's how bad it is, both sills are gone

So are the rear guards, I'll also delete the seem that joins the panels when I fix this (oh as well as lip the guards and tub it out a bit more)

From what I gather this is a typical place for these things to rust, plus it is compounded by a disgustingly bad repair

Drivers door skin is also rusty and covered in bog, I'll remake this from scratch.

You can see how tiny the engine bay is, only measures 35 cm at the narrowest part of the tunnel. I may also have to recess the radiator into the support panel so the block doesnt sit too far back. At least in my mind I can redo the suspension mounts for a double A arm with coilovers unless I can get an easier way out (i.e. a Viva has been suggested)

torana front end?

Considered it, would be a bitch to graft one in, mainly due to such a narrow track (1.25 m) will post some more pics shortly to show what I am dealing with.

Since I'm really needing the shell, anyone want to dibs any of the parts (that haven't already been sold)?

And I need some thoughts on rims? Thinking 8.5x15 minilites or is that too easy?

I would go with a more modern engine.

I knew this would come up. I would save myself alot of hassle if I just swapped it in for a 4age or something. But the holden 6 is one of the few things I'm sticking to with this project, want to keep the powerplant oldschool as well.

What does the viva front end look like? Is it a macpherson strut set up? Steering via box and drag link?

Hoping this project to be done to a slightly higher standard than the HQ. I have access to sheet metal gear so it will have new sills/door skins all made from a flat sheet.

Oldschool big motor worked into a little car is always going to be win.

Viva front end is coil sprung, double wishbone and rack and pinion, also narrow and designed to bolt up to a similar monocoque

body as yours so instant win.

This does sound like a win, I'll have to see if I can track down a parts car. The width issue was always a concern, once I get some decent rims on it the diff is only going to be a bit over 1m wide.

I would go with a more modern engine.

I knew this would come up. I would save myself alot of hassle if I just swapped it in for a 4age or something. But the holden 6 is one of the few things I'm sticking to with this project, want to keep the powerplant oldschool as well.

What does the viva front end look like? Is it a macpherson strut set up? Steering via box and drag link?

Hoping this project to be done to a slightly higher standard than the HQ. I have access to sheet metal gear so it will have new sills/door skins all made from a flat sheet.

I've decided I've stalked this forum for far too long so it's about time I actually contribute. With out properly introducing myself consider this is.

I've bought this...

I have these...

And I've always liked this....

Anyone see where I am going with this?

So I now have it at home (well it's already been there a few months) and have stripped all I don't need off of it to be sold and will getting the shell blasted and 2k epoxy. Shell has a s**t load of rust, but that is something I am used to....

These are my thoughts

202/3.3 Holden with triple carbs, Yella Terra Head and all the fruit (part way to getting all of the bits)

4 spd (have 2, will make one good one out of the pair)

4 link rear end with shortened (very short) BW diff

The front end has me a little stumped, needs to be built from scratch. Will probably aftermarket double wishbones and a steering assembly from I don't know what. Its going to need a cross member (they never had them) so could possibly go to a rack if I can get the geometry right.

As much cage as I can run on the street

Interior will be completely custom, will deal with it closer to the time

Thinking exterior will be more like this..

Don't really want to flare it and colour wise it will be some sort of 'gun metal grey'.

Abuse/spam here

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32075

Also have just completed a pretty full on resto on an HQ statesman, thread is on the NZ forum (and a few Oz ones) but can make a thread for that too if someone really wants it.

Abuse/spam here

Main topic: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32142-sams-57-austin-a35/