Dusty

that intake mani looks damn good, very nice welds.

I was a bit of a dick last time i got it certed, I called him anyway today and found out i can tube front it, I need to get the hobby car manual though. I've emailed but ill go see if the library has one in the mean time. I checked out the diff, backlash on it was good and the contact isnt to bad so wont need to rebuild it or anything which is good. 20130108_171712 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130108_171702 by Dustybike, on Flickr

This is coming along awesomely keep it up man. What diff is that your using?

Thanks, hopefully it will turn out well. cheers! so just machine marks and nothing to stress about? Hopefully it doesn't cause a heat difference between them. I'm still trying to decide what to do body wise, I would like to tube frame the front and maby rear but I don't know if i can and put it on the road. I emailed for a hobby car technical manual but haven't had a reply. Can anyone recommend a cert guy in the wellington or palmy north area? I went to julien cheer for the first cert and would prefer to not go back haha. Pic of inside the front box section, you can see where its been welded right at the back :/ 20121219_211828 by Dustybike, on Flickr and how it sits at the moment... Yeahhh.. 20121219_212531 by Dustybike, on Flickr

looks good man, im jealous. do the golds go much lower?

Brought a nice diff 20121122_125037 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20121122_125017 by Dustybike, on Flickr fd3s diff with a carbonetics 2 way. apparently they're quite nice and quieter than kazz. how i will make it fit is still a mystery 20121123_182718 by Dustybike, on Flickr can anyone explain this to me? the front rotor is grooved all over but the rear is smooth. Iv searched but couldn't find any info on it.

So its been a couple of years. I brought some pineapple racing large street port templates 20120619_172438 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20120619_172834 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20120619_184303 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ports were ok. I tidied up the template a little for the 2nd one. 20120621_171845 by Dustybike, on Flickr I had been looking at rice racings ports and wanted bigger. 20120717_174731 by Dustybike, on Flickr I only really went up on the outside. If i were to do it again i wouldn't port in so much down the bottom of the port and maby not so low. So i modified the template to suit and did the second primary. 20120717_175039 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20120717_183247 by Dustybike, on Flickr I kept it in a little on the bottom edge but not much as i had to match the other port. The line crossing across the bottom left of the port is about the edge of the rotor at the most open point. 20120717_183229 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20120719_181916 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20120719_181415 by Dustybike, on Flickr I ported one of the primaries matching the top of the secondary port and modifying the bottom right a bit to blend the port. I was pretty much blind grinding the lower part as i couldn't feel how thick the wall was.

IMG_0131 by Dustybike, on Flickr dCMwupnzat8 Still hasnt run since that day have a 13b for it now though...

what are you putting it in?

had a look just now. you need to use the rwd baffle plate and pickup. i guess you arnt and its hitting on the fwd baffle plate?

na 1.8, you havent gotten one from the newer version bp with vct? im not sure if its different but idk what else it could be.

mine bolted strait up..

I will never raise it. scraped more engine bay shit away to find more rust and nice crash damage. time to bring it home i think.

So lately got a new bash plate, 8mm this time good luck cateyes New bash plate by Dustybike, on Flickr Old engine seemed allright apart from this pitting and shit? this is #1 was the worst of them all. This from knocking? Fucked engine #1 by Dustybike, on Flickr #1 conrod welded to the crank Fucked engine experimental welding by Dustybike, on Flickr stripped the engine bay to repaint it while i was waiting on the new engine to arrive. There was a little rust but nothing to bad. untill Rust! by Dustybike, on Flickr runs right to the top and forward a bit. not sure how far into the frame rails it goes but it goes lower. its the exact same on both sides. New engine arrived today so checked it out. "Previous owner informed me it had recent port & polish, balanced crankshaft, GTR pistons." also paid extra for a clutch n flywheel that was suposibly all good and was ment to come with gtr ecu & loom and fuel rail. in reality i got a gtx long block with fucked thrust bearings and intake mani sitting beside it. awesome. Now to try and get some money back. I must say if anyone is considering doing the same swap dont unless you have a built bpd and a gearbox to handle it. This if far to much effort for 250-300 hp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k08dUGO ... e=youtu.be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlIG_ttf ... AAAAAAABAA Cracked the sump, ran it dry, seized the engine. Call bp by Dustybike, on Flickr Old bash plate by Dustybike, on Flickr looks like a stone got between the plate and sump and has put a small crack in it.

Was still missing baddly yesterday but not under acceleration so took it for a little drive. had the wastgeate line running to the wrong hole though so it pulled pretty hard. Today i checked the leads and regapped the sparkplugs, got to #4 and it was soked so replaced the injector. miss has sort of gone away. still a little stumble now and then but not to bad. put the wastegate in the right bit and went for a little thrash. god it feels good to drive it again. goes pretty good even on only 7psi. cant wait for more though. Bigger injectors are on their way. ill take it back to work tomorrow and raise it a bit as atm i scrape like hell on a slightly cambered road and this is new zealand so thats prettymuch everywhere.

Yeah megasquirt 2 put the rear camber arms in. took me 2.5hours just for the right hand side to get it back to low. turns out the sway bar links were bottoming out so i shortened them sway bar links by Dustybike, on Flickr and left hand side with everything in. though it still needs more grinding and welding. Rear shock n a arm by Dustybike, on Flickr Got all my suspension in and wound it up to what seemed ok. got it all ready to drive home at 10:30. then it didnt start. for the first time ever. the starter teeth arnt engaging with the flywheel sometimes i think.. Got it going though and went for a little drive. wasnt great but still. found out about where to low is as i pulled over and with a slightly curved road it scrapes the fuck out of the bash plate. It had a bit of a miss on first start but its gotten a lot worse so i need to figure out whats going on, raise it a bit and tune. also water leaks from the heater pipes, oil leak from the turbo feed pipe, i need to fix the wastegate exhaust pipe as it doesnt fit on quite right and i cant get at the back bolt and the worlds slowest response bov. shit to do but ill get there..

I looked it up in the service manual and it showed those marks. Of course mine didnt have them. Timed it to two marks on the top of the front cover. ill take a pic tommorow. It lives! Put a block off plate on for the iac and started up. adjusted the idle screw and idles nicely. The timing belt was sitting to far back on the cams so had to take it all apart again, turns out the back of the cam sprocket? was worn so sat back a little further. made up a spacer out of a washer that was around. sort of horey but it seems ok. just now the crank pulley sits a little forward of the coolant and alternator pulleys. If they start poping off ill so something about it. untill then. exhaust is all bolted up and my god it was a pain in the ass to do. with the final coolant line for the heater running along the exhaust side there is no room what so ever. also the heater lines and turbo oil line run far to close to the exhaust so im sure i can enjoy melted pipe in the future. intercooler lines are finished, the BOV doesnt seem to open though i havent put boost against it yet. everything is pretty much finished just need to tune it. Suspension in tomorrow and hopefully drive home ha pics n shit tomorrow probably.

I had looked into it and 2ways arnt to pricey considering. Ill just have to look into it more. Though ill most probably go 1.8 diff. wired in the cas today and had a go at starting it. left the ic piping off for good measure. shot flames out the intake a couple times and watched it flow the wrong way. checked the timing and it was way out. i had timed it up to 2 dots on the cam gears not the I and E as i was supposed to. So fixed that and had another try and it fired up though only for a second as the intake is prettymuch WOT. so pretty stoked should have it driving ish tommorow. Also rechecked the compressions: 135, 140, 150, 155

Intercooler pipe cold side by Dustybike, on Flickr Intercooler pipe hot side by Dustybike, on Flickr IC piping. The paint is the high temp shit, Iv finished the exhaust and painted it including the polished tip. it looks well less shit in a way. need to finish the cold side intercooler piping just the bov pipe to weld on and find a bung for the iat sensor. one more coolant line to go, intake mani and fuel rail is on just need to make a blockoff plate for where the idle control lived. Rear camber arms arrived. ill get them in when i can. Tophats are getting welded so hopefully tomorrow or thursday for them. Would like to make it start tomorrow. The 1.8 diff is probabily the easiest option. If the torsen in them is anything like the 1.6 its shit useless though which means getting a decent lsd and i really dont want to spend on things im going to have to replace later.

Exhaust is almost done. would be closer if the welder wasn't such a cunt. Exhaust 1 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust 3 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust 2 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust downpipe by Dustybike, on Flickr Fuck yeah mandrel bends for wastegate I ended up getting mounts from repco. theyre not super stiff but theyre better than the old ones. I was reading on solomiata and said they like to break. Ill have to look into it more as i want something that can handle more power down the line.

Soooo put the oil lines for the turbo on and did a compression test. dry: 135, 120, 130, 175 wet: 160, 155, 185, 200 and it was blowing a mist of something out the inlet of #4 with the tester on it. Not a great result pretty much hoping its just the head that's fucked. Will try and get hold of a bp head else just see if it runs. also pulled the front camber in as much as i could on the front and put cert wheels on. doesn't rub anywhere. stoked. worlds ugliest tophats: Tophats 1 by Dustybike, on Flickr Tophats 2 by Dustybike, on Flickr Tophats 3 by Dustybike, on Flickr With the fronts bottomed out it has room for more drop. Also nicely avoids where it was hitting on the top a-arm. Theyl go get welded tomorrow. might actually have suspension this weekend! Will try and finish the exhaust tomorrow. hoping repco or supershit sell stiff exhaust mounts. Otherwise need to get intercooler piping and need to find coolant hoses that will work.

The dumpy doesn't look so bad from a height as you only really see the tip, its still not quite right though. Springs: Old vs new front on the right. New vs old springs by Dustybike, on Flickr Test fit with 60mm tophats was allright. think 65 - 70mm will be perfect. The black ring is a 20mm spacer to raise the collars as they were hitting on the inside top of the front a arm. I need to offset the tophats as well to stop it. Test fit by Dustybike, on Flickr

Tacked up the rear part of the exhaust today the muffler is sitting on the top of the jack so its quite tucked up. Exhaust back tip by Dustybike, on Flickr The mufflers are 3" so 3" bend between them Exhaust back bend by Dustybike, on Flickr 2.5" to 3" and the big resonator Exhaust back res by Dustybike, on Flickr Through the curves to avoid the axel flanges Exhaust back bends 1 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust back bends 2 by Dustybike, on Flickr