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Posts posted by Valiant
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Sorry I didn't mean bearing knock. Knock as in explosion in the combustion chamber. Either is a much more volatile fuel than Petrol or Diesel it is like having way to much ignition timing with very low ocrane rating petrol.
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Either makes engines knock like a Mo Fo, it breaks the rings, and dammages the ring lands. Like Runamuck says it's half fucked, now the rings just got a pasting. It isn't going to want to start again.
A rag soaked in petrol is a slightly less rough way to start a Diesel, hold the rag over the intake and crank the engine. Hold the rag tight though.
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I extended a seatbelt with a short length of my engine chain so the child seat would fit up front.
That chain handled lifting a 383 so kids are no problems.
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Sell all 3 and buy Mopar.
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^I've never seen it but I have heard of people wiring them into the oil light circuit.
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I got a WOF on a car with the air bag light on by putting a little note over the light, it said get milk and bread.
Worked too.
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How about looking into one for a MX5 box? They are very similar to series 1-3 RX7 I think.
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Fishing Trace works good as new accelerator inner cable, with chocie blocks, of course.
Little piece of rubber hose held on with a hose clamp over rust holes in steel water pipes, a water pump and truck air lines.
I have also seen...
Coil springs heated up and collapsed with a gas set while still in the car.
Leaf spring packs cut with the lower leaves cut away to sag/lower the car.
An Chevette radiator wired and roped into an avenga.
Some bucket seats spaced off the floor with wood.
MK1 Cortina struts and lower arms forced into an Anglia It had about 10deg of positive camber when it was done \ /.
Leaf springs turned upside down.
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^^Yes I have seen a Holden coat hanger clutch rod. It worked well.
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Bike brake cables and choc blocks make good throttle cables.
Cut the plastic off the choc block for that pro look.
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My Father in law "fixed" the holes in his muffler with New Tech.
I pulled all the mesh off an old flyscreen door? and a piece of house roof flashing that had been bogged over out of the roof of a rusty Land Cruiser.
Spouting/PVC intercooler pipes.
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Yeah that would work. You're onto it.
What a mision though!
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Be careful. Torque and then a degree setting is for torque to yeild bolts, they stretch, alot. I don't think your ecentric shaft is designed to stretch like that.
Personaly I would loc tite it, put a new washer on it, and do it as tight as I could with some pipe over the handle of my power bar or the workshops 3/4inch bar. Then call it good.
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Mr Haynes smokes P.
100ftlbs on your wrench with pipe on the end is still 100ftlbs, its just easier to pull it round to there.
I think what what they mean is to use a power bar and hang 100 pounds off it 3.5 feet from the center of the socket.
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Hi everyone, I had a day off and made it to my garage.
So heres some photos.
This was a big repair, I have had to cut the bottom off the front guard and repair behind.
The jacking point was stuffed along with the inner and outer sill.
This is the bottom front of the drivers door, repaired today.
There is a hole in the back of this door too but I think it can stay for effect
I welded up some cracking around the drivers door latch too.
I think that the door latch has been faulty at some time and the door slammed shut alot.
OK so like I said before I have been working on a shortening a Falcon diff for this too.
The plan is to make it slightly shorter than standard anglia, this way I hope to fit a neutral
spaced 7inch rim on the back in the standard wheel arches
So heres the jig i made up to hold the housing while I shorten it.
Heres the whole thing cut down (about 220mm per side) and jiged up
And a closer picture with the bar holding it all.
I'll put some more photos up when I do some more.
criticize it here viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081
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Decent Chris, How many fights you guys had over the keys?
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Small world thats my car with me leaning on it.
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Yeah I did do the Reclaim the city run around Christchurch. that drive along the port hills was awesome. The city lights look so really nice from up there. did you go to MiN or the reclaim the city? if so what car were you in?quote]
I didn't have the money or time for MIN I did make it to the City run. I was driving the whote VG sedan viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23906
I think I saw the Avenga at the domain in the late 90s, ages ago.
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There are a few of us Avenger guys in Auckland and I know maybe about a dozen other guys around the country who are in to them. there is a guy down in Palmerston North who imports Rootes group parts so he is a good source of parts.
I brought the domain name http://www.avenger.co.nz a few years ago and I really want to get an Avenger site up and going. maybe have some Avenger meets. I belong to a chrysler club for my Chrysler Valiant Charger and we just went to a big meet in Nelson followed by a tour around the whole south island (4500km) so I was thinking of doing something for the Avengers. Maybe like a annual or bi-annual Avenger meet somewhere in the middle.
I haven't done any of the web design yet but I plan to do something with the site in the new year so I will let you know if there is any updates on that. I know there is a lot of people who would be keen to see your Tiger. I don't think there are any other Tigers in NZ. there is only a dozen or so 2 doors also. I have seen 2 of them in person, only was a rally car with a 1800 brazil engine!!
Cool When you came to the South Island after MIN did you come on the reclaim the city run around Christchurch.
Do they still have the hill climb in the Auckland Domain?
There used to be a burgandy Avenga there that was wicked fast.
The owner said some thing about tiger and 2000ccs and Brazil when I asked about it.
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Yeah this is nice, I have always liked these. Does it have the L shaped tail lights? These were pretty revvy to begin with weren't they?
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Thanks guys.
Yes Its a tight fit in there but it works.
Yes skids are no problems, its a bit stink with an open diff though.
I want to get an LSD and a 3.23 or 3.5 to ond crownwheel and pinion but its an expensive job.
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Sadly I think it has broken rings. The PCV valve can't deal with it because there is more getting into the crank case than the PCV valve can get out. I doubt very much that it is caused by rings not bedded in as that leads to oil use not massive blow by.
Try a catch can, If it persists it will probably have to come out. No panic though head and sump off and see what gives.
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Hi. Sounds like a good idea to me there has been plenty of v8 capris built over the years so a v6 one shouldn't be to hard.
doing a motor swap isn't as hard as people make out, It doesn't have to be right on the centerline of the car etc.
I always put the whole engine together with mounts,exhaust manifolds oilfilter, gearbox etc, basicly everything it will need to make it a runner. Hang it off an engine crane and put it in the engine bay with all your booster and steering in place. Move the motor about, cut the trans tunnel and or fire wall if required untill the motor and trans clears everything. Make sure the motor is slightly higher in the front than the back. If it looks like it is sitting right then it probably is but look from a lot of different angles.
Prop the whole thing in place so it doesn't move and nake some mounts. I like to use factory motor mounts and cut the mounts off the subframe and make new mounts on the subframe. Don't panic if this isn't going to work you can make a motor plate or elephant ears that go strto the chassis rails.
Altering a sump isn't do much of a problem but if you can fit it by pushing the motor back I would be inclined to do that, it will make the car drive nicer and give you more room for your cooling system.
Most of all talk to the person who will be certing it before you do anything
I'm sure people will disagree with some or all of what I have said but this is what I find the best way to get it done.
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OK so love it or hate it here it is.
The whole thing went a bit more OCD than I first intended...
What it is.
1964 Valiant AP5.
I draged it out of a garage about 2002 it was push button auto, brush painted and had a seized 225.
Now.
383 b series big block.
comp xe268 cam
906 heads
Performer rpm intake
780 holley
etc
727 Torqueflight
9inch ford diff with 3.0/1 open diff.
Some other stuff too.
I need to do a few things before its fully finished
Mainly a better rear ratio with a spool/LSD
It gets a bit warm in traffic
Bit of panel work needs sorting.
I'm sick of spending money on it at the moment so it will have to wait.
Discuss here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28698-valiants-big-block-ap5/
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howto flare steel fuel line like this?
in Tech Talk
Posted
Have you got a double flare kit?
If you do just start to push the first part of the double flare into your tube as normal, push it in about 3 turns back off and see how it looks.
It won't come out like those ones, they have been machined but it does work perfect.