pusherman

why not just shorter shock?

ive made up some adjustable legs for the esky using the rally design kit (could possibly be a copy) stil just you standard weld on adjustable kit. my problem is i wonder how people get it so low im going for the true oldschool.co.nz dumped look. but if i have the springs captive im higger than amy winehouse. so ive wound them almost all the way down and im getting closer to being stupidly undriveable low as the wife calls it. but how will this go with the cert man as soon as he puts a jack under it im uncaptive. all i can figure is take another 70-90mm off the shock and run around with sweet fa suspension travel. but then do i run into trouble with the sway bar. please help praise the lowered

i cut bent and welded mine yet to be road tested!!!!

just a quicky does a chassis c notch need to be done by a qualified welder or can anybody weld it up and have it tested to get certed?

some times things are so simple i confuse myself. thanks im off to trade me

wrx strut tops you say. are they a strait fit? engine bay is alreadt painted motor in and running etc so cant chop it about. i checked palmside website and they want $575 for escort ones where as rally design in england want 69pounds each so about $250 all up. or take a brick and go looting which seems to be the "in thing" back home

any body know where to find roller top mounts for a mk2 escort and also coilover springs. in auckland would be best

do old school rx top hats fit in to escort? they have the same 3 stud pattern just,

not a bearing as such as a roller or ball bearing its a rubber bush with metal insert. stanard escort spec

sorted myself a weld on coilover kit for my escort. being the home made no money to spend kind of project i got some honda springs and caps from the scrappy, cant tell you much about the honda it was totaly unreconisable when i got to it. (4dr sedan dark green) the springs are the correct diameter at the bottom to fit the adjusable nuts and taper out to the top slightly, my fantastic plan was to using a hole saw cut the d shaped hole out of the original top sring caps and weld the "washer" into the honda top spring cap. are ya keeping up? My problem is now all painted nice shiny black and back in the car im having a few turning issues, it seems the spring is either turning within the rubber part of the cap or the rubber cap is turning iside the metal part of the cap. from all my thinking i recon the spring cap should be turning with the spring. wtf have i done wrong?

hey just been working on my weld on adjustible kit next thing needed is a set of springs, i see in seedyal tutiorial that he used honda springs any other ideas out there? and also wheres a good place to get springs in aux?

it is possible that its oil from old shocks as i remember the original shocks i pulled out rougly 2 years ago were beyond dead, part of me wants to say stuff them back in and forget until next time. but i do have them apart now.

the 1 i had aplay with had a very slow rebound and judging by the amount of oil in the tube id say its rooted, just reading seedy-als home made coil over guide and its been helpfull still id like to know if any body has had joy using another make or model of cars shock in these struts

hey lads after getting my escort running and drive able ive decided to pull the front end out for 2 reasons a:i want to get my weld on adjustable kit done and b: i dont want to be tempted to drive it befor its done. after pulling my reasonably new shortened shocks out of the struts i find the shock to be soaked and the strut to have a 1/3of a cut of oil in it,so here are my questions. is it advisable to get shortened shocks to run on a lowered car? if so where in aux is best place to go (i used sas before and they charged me 400+ if i remember correct) or what other cars may run suitable length shocks that i could use in my struts?

got new points and a new 1.6ohm ballast resistor cut the resistor coil in half to achieve .8ohm gapped the points to .025" and it lives, definately needs tune its popping out the exhaust for 1st min and hates choke. Supose having an exhaust would help, due to custom (home made) gear box cross member the exhaust dont quite fit. that will be this weekends job. thanks again for all your help

finaly got my new drive shaft so my wheels now have 5 speeds, whats the best way to adjust the clutch when the car is in the air? i know this is a noob question and the answer is guna be facepalm.

only ran for meyby 30sec too 1min, hope ive not cooked the coil id say they would be a touch more hard wearing than to shit itself after 1 min. i bought new points and got my multi meter so il give it a smash hope it goes

very wise man told me get a hypodernic needle stick it in your silicone pipe/joiner/bend run a hose and supply just enuf water for a slowish drip. the shape of needle and hole will get vaporised just needs to be facing the right way. yet to try but the dude isnt a try hard he knows his shit

tryd old coil and it jumped into life and purred so i bypassed the ballast and hooked in new coil it went shortly and died sounded good tho. then followed by firing and dying firing and dying. pulled a plug out got no spark, checked points they have a reasonble pit on contacts. wont be sure what it is until i bring my multimeter home. everything seems tight and connected re-placed a blown fuse but it was listed as tail lamps or sunthing replaced it anyway. ill have another crack after work tomorow.

that sir is some logic right there. left my bloody meter at work today but il take a crack at it tonite. the msd blaster pro ss is the solid plastic job comes with rubber stand off mounts aswell so earthing the coil is not the deal. heading to garage now il post ore findings soon cheers lads

havent changed the leads around at all they are all numberd to stop that kinda confusion (i learnt that the hard way) i pulled old coil out as it wasnt guna fit where i wanted it and was ugly and old. so extended the wiring to suit new possition, im a sparky by trade so know my way around a soldering iron and heatshrink. as i write this im thinking that would be a good place to give a check, it was running fine bar needing the carbs tuned. just seems weird. il go over my re routed wiring, if i drop the ballast resistor out to see if it makes a diff whats the chance of fu*kn the coil?

ive still got the orig ballast resistor that was there, the instructions said to run a ballast resistor if using points could it be the wrong rating?

just bought a new msd pro blaster ss coil. put it in my escort and now it barely runs. well it doesnt run and its blowing alot if gas out the exhaust and backfiring like fuck, why would this be? running points still for now

plenty of room there for it ay. looks like its going to work. my plan is mounting mine on the intake side, but looking at that putting it over the exhaust is probally best plus will leave room to get to dizzy when needed. im now thinking what carby im guna use im currently running twin dellortos but im thinking a holley jeted back so it doesnt flood the shit out of everything, would this work? what else would work?

option 2 sounds more suitible i think id rather run low boost and get to drive my car regularly, so is it big pulley or small pulley for less boost.