gibbon

Passed a beaten up looking k11 2 door at the salvage yard just south of kerikeri today if anyone wants one that bad

this is the beast here. obviously it's supposed to be in one piece, seemed a shame to just chuck the whole thing

shoot me a PM if it looks like what you've got, thanks!

1 minute ago, kyteler said:

I have one of those that I snapped the jaws on.  Top quality.  Happy to send you whatever other turd part you want from it if it's the same. 

hahah no shit, i was about to add "really just hoping that someone has one with a busted jaw" lol. I'll get a pic of the rooted bit

has anyone ever repaired or gotten parts for these cheap vices? turns out this baby is a holdin' vice not a crushin' vice, i stripped the main nut on it. the nut is a barrel and plug thing cast together, I see this type of vice for sale all the time so presumably someone's dealt with this shit before

in the meantime yo dawg i heard you like vices, heres some vice grips to grip yo vice while yo vice grips... (seemed to do the trick at least)

9 hours ago, Testament said:

What the shit, I've never owned a car younger than twenty years old and suspect I'm nowhere near the only one 

Holy ass its busy. Saw an ex Lancer in the carpark 

Congrats on the impending bubba btw 

Yikes, luckily I don't think there'll be many of us to trouble them

Managed to find my keys and wallet so I'm good to go 

39 minutes ago, tortron said:

2001 is old-school now

That's like a 1985 car in 2005 which is what this forum is built on

bollocks. 1985 from 2005 is 20 years earlier whereas 2001 was onl-HOLY SHIT ALL LIFE IS FLEETING HOLD YOUR LOVED ONES

reminds me of when i sold my 1992 mx6 to a guy who was "really into these oldschool coupes"

does it matter that the only "oldschool" car currently at my disposal is a "classic" 2001 SP20?

Confession time, I couldn't find my welding gloves so did the job today with a pair of rubber gloves. Nothing soothes finger burns like a cold can of beer. Parrotdog IPAs today 

9 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Every job on a car project is worth doing twice, if not three times.

Yeah I'm really looking forward to pushing my car out into the sun for the first time and seeing how great the paint job really is :/

Any photos I'd share at this point would be more at home in the Design Disasters thread, but let's just say a new dump pipe has been tacked up which is miles away from the booster and about an inch and a half from the clutch master. What a mission

Goodnight sweet prince, sic itur et cetera 

@kws @cletus

What sort of clearance should I be aiming for? I do have the stock heat shielding here but I think it is pretty restrictive 

46 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

If you are trying to get down into a tight spot with your mig you can trim down the shield on the tip. Or alternatively have a crack with a stick welder to get the last inaccessible bit. 

I think there might be an old stick welder lurking around the back, thanks for the suggestion. I think I can reshape the main pipe on the bench, abuse the flexi to get access to weld it back in, then finally pop the top end back through the flange. Can either get the last bit around the outside with a stick as you suggest or just give up and weld that bit on the inside only

As frustrating as it is, I'm really enjoying puzzling it all out 

44 minutes ago, yetchh said:

 

I was thinking of doing the same sort of thing as you, albeit merging before the flexi. After doing a heap of research a bell mouth seemed to be the better idea so as to reduce pressure post turbo and having a separate pipe for the wastegate was pointless. As long as the transitions from turbo to exhaust are nice and smooth with no sharp bends wastegate pipes are best left for externals. 

 

going with a bellmouth would have saved a bit of headache had I done it initially, but the wastegate pipe isn't really part of the problem now so I might just leave it, pointless or not (I was moaning about access in the above post but I realise that once the mainpipe is cut from the flange, I can seperate the two pipes easily enough to weld on the underside of the mainpipe, thank god for flexis). I didn't really have the option to join it before the flexi as the angle was going to be miles too tight to weld between the pipes where it joined (is there a trick for this?)... and I couldn't bring it away from the mainpipe and then around on a more perpindicular angle in a big S as it was fouling on the manifold. So I figured I'd run it all the way down where I could get a better approach angle.. even then it was marginal, I shouldve allowed it to loop around just a little more and come up from underneath 

I haven't replied because i've been down in the garage staring at this bloody thing. I've got a few options really

firstly, what's the consensus on a reasonable clearance to aim for? Is a heat shield with half an inch clearance on either side enough? This might immediately rule out denting the pipe as an option

I could push the main pipe forwards and reshape it so it hugs the wastegate pipe all the way up from above the flexi, that's the closest thing to what I would call a "walled bellmouth", but some of the access is going to be pretty friggin tight to get a welder into, and it'll require a custom radius - I guess I'll get to have a go at one of those cool segmented jobbies

Or I could push it inboards into the gap that Bling mentioned, that'll require some funky compound bending where again welding access might be a bit difficult (I can see why the bellmouth idea is so prevalent as it sorts out all the plumbing off the bat) this style also will keep reasonably tight clearance to the clutch master

the flexi makes both those options possible without cutting and reshaping the bottom section

I'm a little surprised that there's so much recoiling in horror about the prospect of fitting a smaller booster? I acknowledge that I cocked up and the pipe is too close to the hydraulics, but for the price of a $90 booster which will give me 2" clearance off the bat, I'll need to go out and buy a bunch more metal - (this pipe used exactly one 2.5" U and one 1.75" U) and spend hours on the welder either making a segmented radius or a compound one

3 minutes ago, Dolan said:

I like how the op doesn't listen to posts and could've jist sorted this out on his own instead of publicly on his own.

 

Xox

my original question was about whether or not it was OK to massage the booster. oddly enough some people on another forum have said they have done it without any ill effects. Not really that keen to though. your input was really helpful though 

44 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Why have such a large waste gate pipe? Are you planning on running low boost? What about a bellmouth at the turbo flange into a single down pipe so you can move it forward away from the brake stuff. It seems a bit backward to me to change the brake booster because you made the pipe wrong.

the long wastegate pipe was just to try and keep the main downpipe flow nice and smooth, there was no real science to it. I don't quite get what you mean by a bellmouth? This particular turbine housing has a wall between the two outlets so I can't really just block up the wastegate flange and have everything exit out the main pipe

If the dodge booster is as bolt-in as they say, it'd surely be less effort than reshaping the upper pipe... actually I suppose the flexi joint means I could lean the upper pipe inboard and try to curve it around

I suppose another option would be to cut the main pipe above the flexi and then bring it in and have it hug the wastegate pipe all the way up, the final seal into the flange would have to be done by welding it up from the inside though

yeah it's not quite as bad vs the clutch master as the photo makes out, the dump pipe does duck away a bit more than it looks

I remember reading an article somewhere about the effects of press bending vs mandrel bending on exhaust, and they said the same thing, until you get seriously ridiculous and crush half the pipe, press bending (on in my case, just denting) the pipe had no real effect

Because the pipe is siamesed, any adjustments to it have to be copied over onto the wastegate pipe below it. And welding the seams between the two is very very tricky. I keep coming back to faffing around with the booster etc because if I can't ding the pipe (which i probably will) I don't think re-shaping it is really an option without starting all over again