jakesae101

From memory there was 2 versions of bluetop big ports the early ones having smaller mains and big ends ect possible that there was some casting revisions between the two. 

11 hours ago, kpr said:

I always knew this topic would end up at the holy grail, the su carb

Manu had a 16v running twin Su carbs in his starlet from memory.

Ive had a good run with the Makita discs found them better than the flexovit ones.

58 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

Yes, brake pedal can only be welded for the pivot and where the pedal pad attaches to the pedal arm. Must be TIG welded, and must pass NDT and include a report from the testing lab. 
See your certifier and ask them for an F008 to be filled out so the test lab knows what they are testing and what standard they must use. 

Yea the ndt guy I use is pretty dam good Leon put me onto him.

Yes the bushing does , in my lotus 7 it basically uses a replica of the original 100e pedal with the pivot holes changed to make it reverse swing mount and originally they cut and welded the pedals when converting them. The bushings were braised into the pedal originally have had a friend ream and interference press the original bushing into a profile cut blank but want to weld it to make sure it cant move 

6 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Seem to recall that any welding on a brake pedal (other than OEM) is a big no no?

Single peice but the bushing and pad can be welded but must be designed in a way where is they fail it can still function. From memory in the manual 

@cletus building a brake pedal when welding the bushing into the pedal what are the rules is it like all other safety critical components where its Tig followed by NDT?

Anyone see any issues using these 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1319

over the standard trunnion setup off a herald its a scratch built leitch lotus 7, they are obviously by design a bit stronger than the original herald items. 

Theres a engineering workshop in seaview that has a TK with a detroit in it sounds lush as.

Love my Warren and brown torque wrenches I have 3 in varying sizes.

Modifying of clutch pedals are they able to be welded and modified or are they in the same vein as brake pedals eg: a must be a single piece of 8mm with only welds on the pivot and pedal that if fail cannot cause a loss of function? 

Skid factory have been using the 3/8 ratchet and impact and seem to think they ok when people have quizzed them on it. 

We have a space in our lockup later in the year but could make it earlier possibly , However its in porirua the space is 100M2 split up 4 ways with 1/4 being storage racking with 2 cars underneath and then we all have 1/4 to work on stuff plenty of room for a car and a workbench and tools as its set up for now. Ive been in there for 3 years or so and the other guy has been there a year and a bit the guy that's moving out was part of the original 3 including me that rented the place. LED lighting inside and I have a air compressor , welder ect that happy to lend to people to use. its a commercial unit setup with a secure gate and cameras in the yard.

VHB tape is pretty damn good stuck trim ect on with no issues just made sure surface was clean beforehand havent had any issues with it coming off.

Just now, yoeddynz said:

Yeah our one had only done 40,000km from new. Its a minter. Quite lovely to drive but not a rocketship. 

That ones had a hard life the workshops know it well by all accounts, When were on the same calls you can see when they leave their depot from our station by the plume across the other side of the suburb.

Just now, yoeddynz said:

Still in daily use in Marahau. Last night we sprayed some water at things...

 

Rural brigade here still has the old Hino EX NZDF hear , smell , see the thing from a mile away but is pretty dam sweet they also recently got a new crew cab unit.

good advice in here on universal wiring kits and the like.

On 31/03/2020 at 14:05, peteretep said:

decent quality multimeters? Klein, fluke, anything else? Looking at a good quality, but low end multimeter for work use, only gets used a few times a year but dont want garbo

I used a fluke 17B for years on the tools still use it now they are a chinese made fluke but used to thrash it daily doing tech work, Put it against more expensive flukes and slightly slower refresh rate but was still great can be had around 200$

I run a breaker in my racecar as the battery is in the boot never had any issues with it and it will hold up to starting load (non gear reduction starter on a highly strung high comp 4 banger) . Most fuses have a trip curve of sorts to deal with peak loading vs constant overloading. 

Try running lump, kingsford run great doing snakes ect in my kettle but ash up too hard and have had coals get ashbound when doing long cooks in my offset. I use commodities nz lump 24-25$ 10kg nice big pieces I normally start with a big chimney of it then switch to running wood and may alternate between the two depending how much wood I have I use alot of Pohutakawa. 

@Skodie should get in here he has all his his stuff from back in the day with homebrew mods included

Safaris had a factory voltage reducer did they not?

Ive used Buyee before bringing a chromoly flywheel in from Yahoo JP no issues was painless and reasonably priced left Japan 3 days after the auction closed.

6 hours ago, SiRge said:

Ive been going to Russel at Kenepuru car service centre for about 7 years. Open on Saturdays for WOFs was the first bonus, but turned out to be a really nice chap (Y) 

this is where I also go.

7 hours ago, Adoom said:

Fyi: howatt works from his house now, the workshop was closed when i went there last. His address is on his website. Down near waterloo.

He split with his missus and had to sell the workshop but he is still definitely in business from home.