mjrstar

I just bent up 10mm round bar for tiedown loops.

Not sure I'd hoon an open ended loop like the above for restraining even a smallish car.

It'd be Allgood for collecting useless garbage to store in the back of your already packed to the ceiling shed.

The other thing to think about is attachment method for the ply. In my experience the self drilling gold passivated screws are total poison.

I'm not sure if it's the wood treatment, or reaction with galv or steel, but man it's like they are made from Italian cars.

I'm tempted to try some coach bolts next time I re-deck my trailer. Slower to assemble but maybe provide greater longevity..

8 hours ago, R3spct said:

• European Birch plywood

• Overlaid with a hard-wearing, slip- resistant, wire-mesh pattern designed for the most demanding flooring applications.

• Weather and waterproof

• Resistant to commonly used chemicals.

Trans-Tex 220 is overlaid with Dark Brown Phenol Film on the face and back and sealed edges to make the panel both weather and waterproof, any cut edges, machining, or drilling would compromise this seal and would have to be sealed with a waterproof coating.

Trans-Tex 220 has become the preferred choice for many vehicle and trailer manufacturers worldwide and is recognised as one of the most economical decking materials due to its high bending stiffness, high impact resistance and durability."

 

This was the stuff, maybe i didnt treat edges properly, but its just turned to Weetbix.  Certainly  wouldnt rate it as weather and waterproof if it gets any sort of scratches or dents in it from throwing heavy stuff at it.

Same happened to a mate of mine, weetbix in under 2 years.

We have a work ute that lives outside with the same stuff on it, and doesn't appear to be showing any issues. I suspect the mounting holes and edges must have been sealed with something for it to last as long as it has.

Just cars on it? If so, perhaps not the cheapest, but some galv expanded mesh would probably outlast the universe.

@h4nd Rigidity - Some 3mm wire braid attached top and bottom, loops made from cramps. then apply a bit of tension using some budget turn buckles.  you'd need a longer shaft and a top extension to give a bit of triangulation. Put the mounts in far enough back to take your tip measurement unobstructed. Probably a rigid lightweight disc at the blade root. Maybe 5mm aluminum plate 300 diameter would be a low cost worthy addition?

Then a smaller one top and bottom maybe 100mm.

/ can you put 4 blades on and 1/2 the speed and half the width, or does actual maths say otherwise. 

^^ have also seen failburger accusump and dry sump systems that resulted in grenaded engines. 

The less unique / bespoke parts the better for trouble free motorsport In my opinion - I guess they have there place in professional race teams / purpose built cars but less so on converted road cars.

My honda is stock oil system, with just a moroso baffled sump, and external breather tank via stock breather points. Unknown km bone stock engine, but bound to be approaching 200,000km, up the Rev limit to 9,000 rpm & send it with no oil pressure monitoring other than factory light in dash. I guess if the vtec stops one day then it might have not enough oil pressure?

4 hours ago, Vintage Grumble said:

Shitbox thread!!?? HOW DARE YOU.

But yeh, next daily will probably be a manual turbo one tbh.

Sorry they are an exceptionally fine quality motor vehicle, with only the best quality materials, built with a no expense spared unlimited budget.

Fun to drive though, reminds me a bit of a quiet and comfortable version of my classic mini.

Only gripe is no rotary volume knob- these should be mandatory,  so quick to turn the volume down when you need to see better.

Probably need an idler to increase belt wrap around the crank pulley. (Assuming that's your squeal point)

I guess you could try media blasting the crank pulley to a coarser surface finish but I wouldn't be certain it'd eliminate the issue.

Was a guy in hamilton car club with MR-S he converted to 2zz and had some tuning done. It went OK, but maybe needed a diff ratio or gearset to properly liven it up. It wasn't super competitive on the 1600-2000 class and he's a pretty experienced driver.

He sold it pretty cheap on trademe, bought an open wheeler and won some events.

/ maybe admin to create sub- thread whilst we fizz over tuned n/a Japanese motors.

Surely the lower arm deals with the majority of the load, and the top won't get that much of a workout, more load through a Mac strut than the superb handling double wishbone of course.

B series honda is open deck die cast aluminum, but my car has still has some door glass, and the electric windows, carpet, engine driven power steer/ spam.

I reckon the body will be less than my ek, but not as light as an ef, my mates caged ef came in at 935, but he also still has electric windows, and the stock heater matrix and blower etc.

Sub 1000kg and around 200hp will be great, any better power to weight improvement over will be pretty sweet!

My caged EK is 990kg, this might be a  bit less depending on wheel and tyre combo?

Black is cool too, wife has a stock black over orange, she much prefers it to her previous A class.  It is more fun and nicer to drive,I'd say due to weight, it needs a 17x8 to fill the guards maybe I try and track down some evo 8 enkeis. I reckon they'd do the job nicely, and be inkeeping with with my fleet which features a bit of " stock wheels where they shouldn't be"

I'm more a fan of the black over orange combo.

I had an exhaust certificate on my old evo, in addition to the paperwork which has a drawing / description you are supposed to carry in the car, there was identification thing which was attached to the exhaust adjacent to the exhaust tip.

This was a few years ago now.

37 minutes ago, ThePog said:

There is something appealing about the lowness of that DS, any ute or truck chassis would end up too high.

The desire to belly out on pretty much anything? Well maybe not if you airbag it.

Make it out of a man's chassis, then plonk whatever running gear and body you want on it.

Any rustfuxked f350's on trademe?

in my mind that rocker layout increases lobe to valve stem motion, but if the cams are specced for valve lift not lobe lift then thats all gravy, if however they are ground for lobe lift you'll get more at the valve.

Yeah perhaps the gap on the crank trigger, or supply voltage, assuming the crank does rpm, and the cam does engine positioning, rather than an all in one CAS.

Maybe slop in the cas drive if you have a really short term rpm spike, you could temporarily raise the rpm limit to a million so long as your confident in the throttle setup not jamming open, or some other fuckery.

Fuel:

Are the injectors batch fire or sequential?

Is your fuel pressure regulator set and confirmed pressure.

Have you confirmed the map sensor is playing the game ( watch a live trace of fuel or ignition? The reason I ask is I'd assume 3000rpm feels like about where it might be sitting at low or no vacuum - similar reading to no hose on.

Ignition:

It could be retarded if it feels happier up in the Rev range where maybe it's got more timing in the map. I'd add 10 degrees in a plateau around it's current idle land, just 6 or 8 cells in the table to see if there is any decernable difference. 

Trigger errors  - how many is lots.

20 year old me had an engine with the cam timing out by 2 teeth on both cams and it idled smooth as silk but lacked power up top. (It still made 190 wheel kw) but after fixing the cam timing it made 240kw from a 2 litre.

21 hours ago, Roman said:

They bind at 22mm lift, so are miles off thankfully.
 

Is that valve lift or cam lift? Or does the rocker ratio happen to be 1:1 

This is probably a dumb question, but how far away from coil bind are the valve springs, and could this vary much when the lifter is pressurized with oil pressure, and have you confirmed spring constant /rate.

I've had a valve failure from a bad spec valve spring (double springs in my case had way more than specified spring pressure) which was totally avoidable if the parts had been to spec.

Awesome,  it's like you are living in the future whilst I'm a caveman hand carving blocks on my manual mill.

Interestingly the carbon fibre driveshafts I have, (ex nissan) are made with a fine spline on the yokes and are pressed together with what looks like nothing in the way of adhesive. They are supposed to be good for pretty decent hp/ torque numbers.

So I imagine a well planned fit with room for some adhesive to reside is going to make an extremely strong part.

Ooh, just had a random thought, I seem to recall (but please dyor) that b16a /b18c exhaust manifold is very close to fitting the mivec 4g92. I'm short on exact details, but I I bet there are heaps of b series turbo manifolds to cater to any budget.