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Posts posted by mjrstar
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Ok science nerds, I think I know the answer if I have a tall pressurised cylindrical vessel (25+bar head) 1/2 full of water with a drain at the bottom is it the same or more or less susceptible to vortexing than the equivalent tank without the head of pressure?
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10 hours ago, Roman said:
Yeah I'm using SW20 calipers at the moment with a Primera disc.
But I've got an MX5 setup here I was looking to fit at some point.
Going back to a smaller/lighter non vented disc, and better pad options for MX5s.
That's one of the most important things for choosing a caliper I think, finding something that actually has good pads.There are places like carbotech that will reline backing plates to whatever you supply (if they don't have an off the shelf for you). I run thier xp8 series in my civic which are legit in my opinion..
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The scotch pad polish option does sound like a nice idea to improve the surface finish on the holes..
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Bosch pdf suggests 14% crush on the oring and less than 1 degree from centreline. Maybe you start your drilling operations after you have the injector.. I think 11 and 14 are the 2 most common rail fitting diameter which probably equates to a something like a 10.5 or 13.5mm hole respectively.
Data sheet Injection Valve EV 14 (short and long options if that's your weapon of choice) - Bosch Motorsport https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf
Yeah you'd definitely drill the beefy side, although the rail extrusion I got wasn't offset it was symmetrical.
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I feel the surface finish from a milling cutter and rigid clamping arrangement is going to be optimal over simply drilling the bore for the injector orings to seal against, even though it's only aluminium.
Do you just want some pics and dimensions from a stock type aluminium fuel rail to compare?
I probably have an old Evo fuel rail here you could borrow/take a look at?
also I'd probably consider getting it anodised once it's completed just for the surface hardness and corrosion resistance..
Edit yes there is sleeve style adapters for stepping up the injector fitting, I'd suggest avoiding these if possible, we used some on my mates 2jz supra, and even the smallest angular misalignment caused a fuel weep situation.
This sort of crap.
https://www.efihardware.com/products/c354/Fuel-Injector-Height-Adapters
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They probably won't fly apart as you only need sensible rpm, to make solid power numbers on a 4 litre turbo with dual vct.
Good reliable fuelling and boost control and not trying to dial in a hero tune should prevent torching the tops of the piston (which an OEM or aftermarket are probably as prone to as each other)
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Awesome ,that's going to be a pretty cosy fit on the rear!
I settled with a 205 soft compound on the rear of my ek, then either a 205 soft on the front for wet or short runs, and a 225 AR1 for longer events. Works alright.
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Nice wheels, are you intending on running the 16x8 225 on the rear too?
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Not sure if it's an option for you but on my mazda I made a nipple that used an old brake bleed nipple at the high point on the cooling system. Crack it open use some clear hose and dump it into the expansion tank until there is no more bubbles.. it did take a couple of drinks (cooling cycles) from the expansion tank for it to work..
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I wonder if you can just borrow a receipt off someone else and put the 50k into something else..
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On 25/07/2023 at 20:09, shizzl said:
I’m sure if I went with a watts, I’d just get a palmside escort kit and make it fit. It’s the centre bushing/pivot that is the trickiest part of that.
Bex link might just solve the ride height, travel and packaging issues, no need for diff mounted centre pivot.
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Engine is purring again (until next time)with one new injector.
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Pulled the injectors, #3 had no remains of the seat seal and needed a lot of encouragement with a homemade slide hammer. #4 also needed a slide hammer but seat seal was in tact..both had a lot of carbon build up..
The other 4 injectors looked like brand new and seat seals in good condition...
I switched 3 and 2 injectors around and the high deviation number switched to cylinder #2 so I'll order one new injector and see how it goes.
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If you do decide on HRB conversion a couple of things..
Make sure you can make a decent surface on the box to mount it.
If you don't feel like paying a billion dollars for a Tilton or whatnot then you could consider a saab bearing.
Https://www.ebay.com/itm/223024786078
but check your release bearing contact to clutch fingers as converting the bearing is a bit of a ballache.
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Actually no fuck that, the installs I have seen that go nuts generally have pullies of very similar diameter, I reckon with the alternator being small diameter it might not fly to bits...
Send it as is but maybe be prepared to alter it if grenades itself.
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You'll Probably find that a tiny little idler setup with almost no tension on it mid span would eliminate any risk.
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2 hours ago, kpr said:
ac/dc tig, 200amp or more, budget around 3k. Any stand out machines these days? or chose your chinese shade of colour ?
I'm running one of these, but I've had it a few years now and it appears inflation has not been kind, I think it was about $1700 trade price including adjustable hand piece and 8m lead when i got mine..
https://www.saecowilson.co.nz/product/wia-weldarc-200i-ac-dc-arc-tig-welder/
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4 hours ago, drftnmaz said:
I used to use Autoclutch but he closed down ages ago,
Nothing to add other that Eugene did pretty decent work at a pretty decent price. Some people had run-ins with him but I thought he was algood..
Mate of mine has a single plate autoclutch in his 500+ wheel kw supra that he's used drifting, used on the street, and run full slicks at the track.. no dramas..
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Have seen belts turn to dust at high(ish) rpm on 4g63t Evo's too. I think it was an order of frequency of the bigger diameter pulley vs the longest free span length. It was super repeatable and happened within a few seconds at certain rpm across a number of cars.
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I have done some more reading, one of the reasons for an increase in injector is to smooth the idle if the engine doesn't see the increase in energy from the firing of that cylinder. It might also be reducing fuel on the other cylinders as part of the smoothing strategy. So potential for seal being my issue.
Research suggests that over about 1.5 is greater than normal and requires investigation. So yeah the ~5 is bad.
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23 minutes ago, Doug Hill said:
Check/measure injector leak off/return
Check injector seat for leaking.
Most likely seats, but easy/fast to do a leak off/return volume test first
Do I do this by capturing the leak off volume into a container at idle or something?
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Yeah the other variable is these engines are prone to eroding the copper washer at the end of the injector that seals the combustion gas in.. so maybe the injector does weird shit when it's seeing less compression..
I'm relatively confident I have at least one leaky seal..
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Yeah I wondered if there is an averaging thing, that it you have one requiring a big plus, that it compensates withe some minuses across others so you kinda get back to zero ish..
Tempted to get one new one, bang that in an see where the numbers head.. I expect the injector themselves are going to be eye wateringly expensive..
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Got the vcds working (man it's cool)thanks to @Alfashark, as I anticipated due to rough idle but smooth power delivery the injector deviation numbers are off...
Does anyone know what an acceptable deviation numbers might be? And is there a process passed just running the engine and plugging in the laptop...
2014 Audi 3 litre bitdi
Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
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Yeah I figured worse, the level transmitter suggests the tank is over 50% full but potentially telling lies. Vortex can be brutal, even with just minimal suction head from a pump let alone 20+bar in a condenser vessel with a bunch of steam hooning at a couple of hundred degrees..
I looked deeper into the system and I'm even more convinced that she's got the mean swirl on.. I wish it was a glass vessel so you could see what's happening.