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Adoom

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Everything posted by Adoom

  1. I reckon Drftnmaz just made an error. The Delta option will always be the lowest voltage the motor will run on. I am not clued up on how the speed control would work for your current setup. But I would imagine that if your motor was 380v delta and you wired a 380v 3PH supply to it in Star, it would run slower.... but I'm no electrologist. I've looked into VFDs to get my head around it for a big motor I am installing on my lathe. Most VSD/VFD will be 220v 1PH in and 220v 3ph out. If your motor plate has a 220v Delta(the triangle) option, you can use that kind of VSD/VFD. These are the reasonably inexpensive ones. If the Delta option on your motor plate says 380v, then the Star(upside down Y) will be ~600v, you cannot run it on the above type VFD. But you can get a VFD/VSD that does 220v 1PH in and 380v 3PH out, but they cost much more and they are not nearly as common. I have ordered a 7.5KW VFD from AliExpress, to run a 5.5KW 380v 3PH(Delta) Motor. The VFD was ~$600. It's on longtime shipping. I ordered it at the end of April... it's been "on a plane" since June 23rd. Still got another month left on the order guarantee thingo. Hopefully I have not wasted my money. If you don't want to wait a million years... There is a VFD guy on Trademe. I'm pretty sure he is just reselling the Aliexpress VFDs and he has a hefty markup. Last time I looked he did have some of the 220v 1PH to 380v 3PH VFD.
  2. EXTENDO BRACKET! The big motor does not fit with the rear stud in the original location. Fortunately there is another tapped hole for the stud further back. I assume there was a factory option with a longer motor that uses a different plate... This option seemed way easier/cheaper than making a completely new mounting plate. I still need to make an adapter plate because the bolt holes on the motor are just wider than the slots in the plate.
  3. AFAIK, the long skinny runners that go to the 4 ports shaped like an 8 are to increase the velocity of the air at low revs. To get more air in? For increased bottom end torque? As the revs increase the butterflies open allowing the air to go through the big short runners and feed all 8 inlet ports. The downside to this is if you use only low revs, 4 of the ports/valves are blocked most of the time and you get lots of carbon gunk built up behind those 4 valves. When I stripped that engine there was big piles of gunk stacked up behind those 4 valves. I did not move the ruler between photos. So the measurement is there... 299mm. Sad man. Oh yeh and the center gap.... is 183mm-149mm = 34mm
  4. Pics too huge... I also have the head. I was planning on using it. I had gone through the effort of hand cutting new gaskets. But then the tuner I was going to use was like "LOLWAT! Find a normal one".
  5. Here is my funny super early manifold
  6. I have one, but it's a really early version and has a cross over manifold with a TVIS like contraption on it. Is it worthwhile measuring that?
  7. Finally got around to wrestling with the gearbox at the start of lockdown. I needed to swap it out with a spare because the seat for the output shaft oil seal was damaged due to a too long propshaft and it would leak oil. 2nd gear started making noise. Put some essential oils in. Didn't look at invoice so no dicks were seen. @Dell'orto I pulled the old box apart and there was fuck all oil in it. 2nd gear looked physically okay, but was all black and burnt. Reverse had chipped corners from missing 4th a few too many times.
  8. Oh, neat. So it doesn't do anything mechanical, it's just a giant lever for an electric switch. So I can wire this into the VFD for my forward/reverse. Cheers.
  9. Soooo I finally found a big boy motor that wasn't shitloads of money. 5.5KW Oh yeh! It's quite a bit bigger than the 2.2KW. It juuuust fits in the motor house, I have to put it on its side to get it through the door. I've got a 7.5KW VFD on the way. Which was 1.5 times as much as I paid for the motor. To run the VFD I had to get a 32Amp circuit installed in the garage, it will draw ~23 Amps. Fortunately I found a used outlet with a plug for fuck all. But the 6mm cable and conduit cost as much as the motor did. To save some money I pulled the cable and ran the conduit. But the electrician was almost as much again as the motor was. Hey @Muncie. What does this lever do? It's got a cam on the end that operates a couple of switches. I could probably use them as external switches on the VFD.
  10. You might want to use a bit of wood or aluminium to practice drilling the holes in the right place, then use the best one as a drilling template on the boot lid?
  11. Made a top plate to mock up the coil over top mount. I somehow managed to mess up drilling the stud holes, so I guess this is just for testing. This is pretty much where it will sit. Ride height will be in the middle of the stroke.
  12. Isn't the boot pull in the box between the seats?
  13. One of the two areas where there is rust. In the boot/rear quarter. Got decent penetration. I made use of a copper backing plate(a squashed copper pipe) for the long butt welds.
  14. What's the fitting made of? Can you get some weld onto it? That should loosen it up.
  15. So the shifter housing is real fucking close to the cross member...chassis rail(not really sure what to call it) that goes through the tunnel. It makes it a real bastard to get the gearbox on the engine because you cannot slide it back. You have to drop the engine, and to do that you have to take the engine mounts off. I was going to leave it until much later when I could flip the car over and have easy access. But I decided to do it a different way. I borrowed a piece from the rusty yellow one. Then unstitched the welds to remove the offending side of the cross member Then chopped it up to make myself a puzzle. Then zapped it back together. I started off with the mig, but the welds were such a pain to grind smooth, so I had some more practice with the tig. I made about 30mm more room for the gearbox. I will make the angle bits to join the chassis rails back together when it's on the car. The width of the rails is not consistent, so making them fit this does not automatically make them fit the white one. I'm crossing my fingers that the floor panel pressings are the same.
  16. I got some from Steel and Tube seaview. They only do full sheets and don't have the facilities to cut it, so you need a trailer. It was inexpensive.
  17. Using my bumpsteer measuring thingamadoodah and fucking around with spacing the tie rod end and rack mounts I found that the tie rod end and the steering arm needed to exist in the same space. So I sacrificed a spare one to modify so I can continue mocking up. I made a jig to hold the end in the right place for welding. Here is the one from the other side to see how far it's moved up. . And totally legit welding. safe as. This is just for mocking up. Once I get the height right for minimal bump steer, I'll mill the final ones out of a block of mild steel and have tapered holes so I can use the factory tie-rod end and not fuck around with rose joints, bolts and spacers. I've been using the LVVTA bumpsteer pdf thing. https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf My measuring thingamadoodah has the points 575mm apart, so each mm of toe is 0.1 degrees. With my hacked steering arm, the tie rod end is mounted below it. This is with a 3mm spacer, it's the best I've got it so far. If I remove the spacer and move the tie-rod end up, the line on the graph indicates the tie rod end is too high. If I have two 3mm spacers, the line says it's too low. I'll have to make some 1mm spacers to see if I can fine tune it further. To flatten out that curve I think the whole tie rod has to be longer, but then I'd need a shorter steering rack.
  18. Calipers are rebuilt. I had to use the original retaining spring ring things that hold the seals on as the replacement ones were too short and made the seal bunch up between the ends. I made 3 sets of spacer before I got the thickness right so the disc is in the middle of the calipers. The spacers still have to be tig'ed on and the brackets painted.
  19. Have you made a drawing of your wiring diagram? I found it helped when I did my Starlet. AFAIK, yes Diode works just the same in a ground wire.
  20. Both calipers are cleaned and painted. I split them before painting to install the new o-rings between the halves. The pistons are good on the outside sealing surfaces, but the inside was a bit rusty, so I wrapped the outside in tape and sandblasted the inside, then painted them with caliper paint so they don't immediately rust again. I'll give them a few days for the paint to harden some more before I assemble them. I've made the caliper brackets for both sides. And all the spacers. I'm going to wait until both calipers are assembled then fit them so I know 100% that the spacers are the correct thickness before I weld them on, just in case. The spacers on the top of the bracket are for the strut, also so I don't need to get shorter bolts.
  21. OOOSH... I finally contacted cert man. I've got to get design approval for the rear subframe and the steering rack relocation. He's told me what forms and info sheets I need. I'm not looking forward to trying to accurately draw the rear subframe stuff. But here's some pictures of brake conversion, take two. I went with the subaru WRX calipers. The RX7 ones were much lighter, but too bulky so I'd have to have wheel spacers. All I've done to the calipers is sandblast them and chuck some WD40 on to stop flash rust. I still need to rebuild and paint them. The rebuild kit and caliper hardware arrived yesterday. The bolt holes ended up being all in a straight line, what are the chances... I've only made one side so far, it takes a fucking long time to band saw through 170mm of 25mm thick steel. I still need to round off the ends and make spacers to weld on(it's just got a stack of washers in there now). I freaked out a little when I found I had about 0.6mm of run-out! GOSH!! But I re-tightened the disc mounting bolts and did a better job of adjusting the bearing pre-load, now it's 0.04mm. I'm gonna blame Triumph manufacturing tolerances because I didn't touch the machined face the disc is bolted to.
  22. Do you mean having the bolt threads protruding through the other side of the caliper mounting lugs? In my case(from memory, I could be wrong), the threaded hole is tighter at one end so the bolt will jamb and not protrude. I'm gonna assume it's to stop you from using a too long bolt and running it into the face of the disc and damaging it.
  23. Yeh. I know I really should. I've been putting it off, I don't really have a good reason why. On previous certs(my Starlet has had 3) I've done all the work and only taken it to see the man at the end. But this project has the added complication of steering geometry from moving the rack and chopping up the rear floor to fit in an also chopped up narrowed subframe.
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