Adoom

Trying to work out if I have the CAS plug wired correctly. I'm fairly sure I have the power and ground right. And 75% sure I've got Trig 1 and 2 the right way around. It seems to work occasionally, like sometimes it displays the revs momentarily in the Link software, but most times it does not. I'm just turning the engine over on the starter. Could it be from voltage drop? It's dropping down to 9 volts when it's cranking. It's the same 360 degree Nissan Opto type as the old engine. Maybe I'll take it off and turn it with the drill, so there is no voltage drop from the starter. Also found that the fuel hose for the overflow from the surge tank to fuel tank has gone hard. It can't be much more than 3 years old :/ I blame supercheap efi hose Which was actually quite expensive. Of course it's the most awkward one to remove, all the other hoses have to be removed so the fuel tank can come out.

More recently. I had to pull the gearbox out because the plate thingy that goes behind the flywheel didn't have holes in the right places for the L-brackets that brace between the block and the lower bellhousing. So convenient that I got a power file for xmas to make some notches in the edge of the plate. I've also just put the radiator and intercooler back in.... The radiator top hose needs to make some bends like a snake practicing yoga... I might have to make it out of metal I think. I also had to cut some of the electric fan shroud off so it clears the front pulley. 3mm is heaps!

Build Thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51322-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia/

*rebuilds engine* over REALLY long time. Thanks CAM. Making new engine mounts. Old ones were a bit not right.

Then on the first or 2nd run at Manfield. BHG Bores were fucked #1 and #3 spark plugs had melted electrodes. So I did this It's the 4 port head It needed a rebuild though

Had to move the BOV to before the IC so it didn't vent E85 into the engine bay.... It's the red bit down there.

And a dyno run. Low boost/High Boost. And I didn't mention I messed around with an aquamist water injection system. The dyno guys tried putting straight E85 instead of water in it. Extra 20KW on the same boost! But the flow from the injector nozzle was not consistent so they suggested replacing it with a fuel injector. I'm not the best at brazing.... Making the fuel tank for E85 And an oil catch tank Baby fuel rail for the single injector.

At some point I decided to make a better clutch pedal. A straight one... I also put a stop on it, because it was pushing the clutch springs too far and they would touch the clutch plate. The Starlet speedo cable screws right into the CA18ET gearbox. But it reads ~20% high. With the link, I could use a PWM speedo and a speed sensor in the box. I'm cheap/poor, so I tried to find a factory fitted pwm speedo I could use. No such luck. But a rev counter is pwm. So after very much fucking around I ended up with a rev counter with a speedo faceplate It turns out I don't HAVE to have an ODO?! I made a spider. It lives on the roof of my house now

And I got a fibreglass bonnet and bumpers. And I got a better radiator Then I took it to the dyno and said "can we turn up the boost?". And they were like "holy shit why hasn't it exploded before now? It goes really lean and starts detonating. You should LINK ECU it." So I got a link and made a fuel rail to take bigger injectors etc.... Too much torque happened, so better clutch

The replacement shell had rusty doors, bootlid, bonnet, guards and under the wiper motor. I swapped the bootlid, bonnet(minor straightening required), right guard and I just happened to have one spare guard for the other side. I fixed the rust in the drivers door frame, but the passenger side was worse so I bought the yellow door. The box doubles as a handy table.

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51323-adooms-1982-kp60-starvia-discussion/ So my project thread started out on Club-K then moved to Toyota Team 80's then Toyspeed. Now here I am. I'll just put in some historical highlights rather than copying the whole 14 pages/6 years.... I started off in 2005 with a KP61 4 door, for $300 from Pick A Part. I was all like ermhegerd must have rotoreee because I was in my early 20's. Then I wanted to get a 4age... Then a low km CA18ET single cam 1800 turbo from an S12 silvia became available for FREE!!! Over a period of 3 months THE STARVIA was born. But after about a year or two, I got rear ended while waiting at an intersection. The car was sandwiched between a big ute and a twat in an accord. The damage was mostly to the shell so I could salvage everything else including some panels. The buy back value of the car according to the insurance company was $300 So the insurance money got me a 2 door with no engine leaving change for UPGRADES! Upgrades like: LSD, coilovers, a 2nd bucket seat, intercooler.

Did they mention what the price might be? Or just "about the same"? I have a Storm G4 with a CA18DET that I will need to get tuned at some point, in the hopefully near future...

Yeh, I've just been looking at photos of escort crossmembers and they are all boxed in.

Progress. Pajero lower control arm bushes. The question I have is, should I gusset the mount on the cross member? It seems pretty solid already. Like this, or something?

Remove the flywheel and clean the points with some fine sandpaper. That's what was wrong with mine that had been sitting for 20 years.

Does the bush need to be bonded to the crush tube and/or outer metal tube/sleeve thing?

I need to make new engine mounts for my ca18det KP starlet. The current ones are those cotton reel type mounts, so not captive. It is a race car, but I don't really want to go as far as solid mounting the engine. I like those escort world cup crossmember ones that have the horizontal bush with a bolt through it. They look reasonably compact and easy to fabricate. I came across an old post where Cletus said not to use any old bush because you cannot do it up tight and the hole goes oval, or something like that.... What kind of bush would be suitable? Is there an economical option that does not have $100's of escort/rwd/brandname tax added to something that cost $20 to make?

Cheers. I'll have to go to pick a part with the cordless impact gun and my old pulley as a guide.

So I'm replacing the CA18ET in my Starlet with a CA18DET. The ET uses a single V belt. The DET uses poly-vee/multi rib thing pulleys. I only have the alternator with the single V pulley. Are the poly-vee pulleys pretty standard on nissans? Or are they all sorts of different offsets and diameters?

I don't think this was already suggested. Delete the factory booster with plate thing so you only have the master cylinder. And install a remote booster elsewhere. Look, the past! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20139-remote-brake-booster/

You seriously cut those with a hole saw? What brand/make of hole saws do you have? I have very little success hole sawing any metal. I end up with a fucked saw and a ragged hole.

Yep. I hardly ever look at it anymore, when I do, there are SFA new posts. Where did everyone go?

I have lots of photos, I forgot I took them. I came across it while looking at my Toyspeed project thread.

SOLVED! I found this photo I took. Look at that filth! But #3 has a "P" on it. The other set of caps has a "K". So my guess was wrong.

I think the diff(T-Series) I had shortened 25mm each side was from a corona. The problem with the original axles was that the diameter decreased just after the spline, so if you shortened it and cut more spline further down the shaft, part of the spline "teeth" will not be the full height. Is that the problem you have? I managed to find some axles from a different toyota at Pick a Part, that were a few mm larger diameter overall but same bearings, same number of splines and even 10-15mm shorter than my original ones. They machined that old spline diameter down and cut the new spline. I can't remember what I got the axles from though, it was 10 years ago. It was a Toyota something Wagon.... According to this: http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/diffcompare.html It might have been an E-Series axle. The GX61 wagon looks right.