Adoom

Can anyone recommend the cheapest place for kevlar belts? Prices I have found are $60 to $70 each.

Did some work. Took the Mower deck off. Jacked the front end up intending to put some axle stands under it. But then this happened. FYI: It has a tow bar that's stopping it going any further back. I used a ratchet tie down to pull the cracks in the frame closed. It took hardly any effort at all. Welded the outside of the crack and plated the rear with some flat bar I had lying around. Chucked some paint on there that was left over from the mini bike. The underside and brakes were coated in loads of grass and muck. Most of it came off with the hose. Also welded a broken bracket here. Forgot to paint it.... Took the brake off to clean. One of the pins was totally seized, I had to press it out with the vice. But seems to work now. Needs some adjustment though. The drive belt is super fucked. Definitely need to replace it. There is an idler/guide pulley that does not look factory. They have used an UNSEALED?! bearing that's totally seized and missing some balls. You can see where the belt had been rubbing on it.

Does the oil or fuel not leak out when you have it on such an angle?

Yarp, got that foot pedal. Internet and parts explosion says it has brakes. I guess they are worn/seized/not connected. Will investigate tomorrow.

Nah, it's just a plain V belt. Haven't lifted it up high enough to see the blades yet.

I'm not sure if this is worthy of a project thread. I got this mower for $250 buy now. Seemed cheap. Picked it up this morning. It had been sitting in a farm shed for ages. All the tyres were flat. I pumped them up and they seem to be holding air, they are full of cracks. Had to remove this wheel to fit it on the trailer. I JUST fit it in the garage. Both sides of the frame are cracked just behind the engine. V-TWIN! No idea how old it is. I think they made this model from 1990 to 2003. The Bonnet thing is missing. It has a big steel bumper now. The battery is stuffed, need a new one. I fucked around for ages trying to jump it off the racecar, but my shitty supercheap jumper cables just started melting. I could only get the engine do do part of a rotation.... So I connected the battery directly and discovered that the problem was that the ignition cuts out when you turn the key too far?! I chucked some gas in it. Still no go. Checked fuel was coming out of the pump. Drained the float bowl. SUCCESS!! It's alive!!! No smoke. It has drive. Doesn't seem to have brakes... The pedal only seems to disengage the drive by taking tension off the drive belt. WTF am I supposed to do on a hill????? Things to do: Replace the fucked fuel hose. Use the big ratchet ties to try close up those cracks and weld some plates over them. New battery(racecar battery is too tall). Replace the front left kingpin bush, it's totally shagged and making the steering have massive amounts of play. Tighten all the loose bolts. Find out why it shreds the belt(according to seller). I think he's just put it on wrong maybe?

I got mine done there. It was a breeze. Nothing to remedy.

Why not find a radiator that fits?

I do not have an odometer. My speedo is actually a rev counter, with a speedo face, driven by the Link ecu. I have had a number of wofs like that at one place. and have since got a new cert + wof at a different place. The lack of odometer was never mentioned.

I pulled the springs and shocks out the back with the car on axle stands and the diff head supported by the jack with some rags on it to reduce noise from there. After bouncing it around a bit and using the mechanics stethoscope/screwdriver I decided that the noise was from the lower left rod end. I already cleaned and greased the rod end and bolt on the top left. I did the lower one too and it didn't fix it. I think the cause might have been the lower arm was adjusted a few mm too long so when it moved it got way more force on it. I slacked off the adjusters on that arm and adjusted it until it was in the middle of the loose area. I also thought about putting some of the friction modifier I had into the LSD to try shut up the chatter, but it was already at overflowing and the oil looked milky so I want to change the diff oil soon as. I'm not sure how the diff oil gets water in it.... it's been sitting in the garage for 2 years. It very rarely gets wet... Where does the water come from????? Well, I took it for a test drive up to Kaitoke and the noise appears to be gone... for now.

Yep, I know that one. I think it's in the Haynes.... But afaik it's for the bonded rubber bushes since they cannot rotate in their housings.

I had a similar thought last night. But it should last some time without having to be regreased I think...

Easier to hammer in the nail jobbies?

Just dropped it back at STM for the road tune. I wonder if there will be a noticeable difference between the "ignition retarded for safety, to get it legal" and after the road tune. And OH GAAAAAAAD!!!, the SQUEAKING RATTLE!!!!! My new theory is that the trailing link urethane bush is dry and it's making all the noise.... maybe

Picked up the Starvia this morning from the certifier in Carterton. Test drove/ran in the engine driving back to Upper Hutt via Pahiatua -> Palmerston North. The twisty bits were good fun, but the loooooooonnnng straights not so much. By around 150km I'd had enough of the road noise and had to put on the ear defenders that I brought with me for exactly this reason. By about 200km my eyeballs were starting to melt and the ear defenders were crushing my skull. 250km, I was a couple of minutes from home, I removed my ear defenders and it was an EXPLOSION OF LOUDNESS!!!! And I thought I could do all of the ~500km run in on one day. LOL. Next job is to try find the annoying loud rattle. There is not much it could be, I think it's the muffler touching the spare wheel well as there is only half a gnats nut clearance.

Passed its cert check on Friday, with nothing needing changing!! He has also done a wof check, but can't submit the wof until the new cert plate arrives. Hopefully the plate should arrive on Wednesday and I can put some rego on it and pick it up on Thursday. Been two years since I drove it. I'm going over there on something called.....a "train". Gonna be fun times, or death, driving it home, the long long long long long way because the LSD is a bit harsh and the weather is supposed to be wet. Is it time to pick it up yet?! How about now? Now? Now?

Yes, it's in degrees. PM sent for eeeeeemail address

You don't need a link. I meant that you could look at the ignition map stuff and see what they did with the timing. It's pretty visual in the pc link software, with graphs and tables and stuff. The help is pretty good too.

We made no real gains with the water injection(Aquamist) until the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. The added E85 allowed them to reduce the "normal" 95 octane by 20% and advance the timing. But the amount of E85 being injected was inconsistent. I replaced the water injection system with a single fuel injector attached to a pressure regulator and fuel pump with a little 5L tank. This seemed to be much more reliable/consistent. But then the engine killed itself, I wasn't sure if it was the fault of the E85 injection(uneven mixture distribution??) or a blown head gasket. I decided not to keep the system on the new engine. I can send you a copy of my LInk G4 tune if you want, you can view it on the pc link software that you can download for free. My clutch was made by MP Autoparts here in Upper Hutt. http://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/ It wasn't cheap, $500+ But no problems with it slipping. And it feels fine, perfectly drivable in normal traffic. OS freight service, for the win!

Whats the dealieo with that rule where you can drive your unwarranted vehicle if you are driving it to a place to get work required for the warrant? My Starlet has rego on hold(last rego was 2014) and wof expired. It needs a new cert because I have changed from a sohc to a dohc. My cert guy is in carterton(Julian Cheer), I am in Upper hutt. Technically, getting the cert is "work required for the wof".... If I drive it to carterton, and I am stopped by "the man", would I get away with it? I would probably be stopped because my car has panels that are not all the same colour, rather than for speeding or whatever.

Dunno why the photo is rotated... :/

Collected it from dyno tune today. No issues. Once it's legal I take it back for the "road tune". I'm pleased with the results. High and low boost. Try tried increasing the boost further, but it made less power, because heat. More power needs better or bigger turbo.

So I started it when I got home. I can actually see one of the exhaust cam bearings/caps through the filler hole and I can see oil coming out around the......journal? And there is plenty splashing around. So oil must be getting through the whole system. So I ran it till it was good and proper warm/hot. The oil pressures are now down to where the manual says they should be. I visited STM on my lunch break and booked it in on the 9th, I wanted to do the week before, because I am on leave, but they were full up. But I can drop it off the friday I am on leave. They will run the engine in on the dyno $$$ then do the dyno tune $$$$, then because it is not road legal and they cannot do the road tune part of the tune, they "pull it back" so it's "safe" and I can go sort out my cert, wof and rego. Then I bring it back so they can finish the road tune which is included in the dyno tune cost. I've yet to figure out how I will pick it up since I am at work. The trailer I had thought of borrowing is out of action because of brake problems. I guess I won't get away with just driving it home, it looks conspicuous with its multicoloured panels and rego sticker that says 2014.

How much do you expect it to cost? I really like this idea and would also like to do something similar. But I haven't bothered to contact any shed companies because it's so early on for me and almost all of them don't list indicative prices. I would still need to: Maybe fix some house stuff. Sell the house. Find someplace temporary to live with the dog and all my shit. Find a nice bit of dirt to build on, somewhere around Carterton, but not much further north. Buy that dirt. Borrow more money. Make some barn/house plans with hugemungous garage. Find someone to build that thing for not shitloads of money. Fill garage with cars I now can no longer afford!

The workshop manual says pressure at idle should be more like 20psi. And 50-60psi at 3000rpm