Adoom

Looks like I will need to do some rust repair on the sills. There is no rust on the outside/underside, though I still need to do a comprehensive search. So far... I can stab a screwdriver through the front left corner of the passenger footwell. The front end of the drivers sill in the wheel arch has some rusty holes. The end of the passenger sill in the wheel arch has some roughly tacked on patches. The front outer part of this sill has been repaired, but I don't know if they cut the rust out first or just slapped a panel over the top because there is a lap weld rather than a butt weld where the repair ends. The end of the sill in the rear wheel arch is rusting through around the seatbelt reinforcing plate. This guys thread is most helpful to make it look less intimidating. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/173102 I'm supposed to be getting electricity in the shed TODAY! So I could use tools other than my cordless drill.

You could join a motorsport affiliated car club too. The annual fees are usually bugger all. Like $20 or $60 or something. Then you get invites to their track days, and all the clubs often invite each other to their track days too. So join club X and you could also enter events arranged by club Y/Z/etc... Often, depending on the event, you run in classes by engine size, forced induction, FWD, RWD, AWD. So you typically end up running with cars 'similar' to yours in performance.

Make that both rear quarter windows are rusty at the bottom. Jeez, the fuck is up with these factory gaps between the panels, it's like they designed it to leak into the guard if the mastic stuff ever failed.

Some clown hot glued the rear parcel shelf in cause the clips were missing. I scraped it off without too much damage. But the long thin metal bit that goes behind it was rusted through at both ends. Anyone got a good one? Found some rust at the bottom of the left rear quarter window. Took it out to find a decent hole and a small hole on the outside that had been bogged over without bothering to remove the window first. Repair looks to be within my welding skill level, but part will be outside, so it will need to be painted. I wanted to avoid painting it for a while.

I've looked at some like that. But that is so basic, I'd be better off making my own. You also don't get any way to turn separate vents off/on. The current setup has: Large central dash vent. left dash vent right dash vent left windscreen vent right windscreen vent left rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) right rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) Venting to the foot area(no ducts, just a big hole in the side) I'd want to retain at least 1-5. I thought of making a box up for the original long heat exchanger but run two fans that I can control separately. One fan is ducted to windscreen for super demist. The other fan is ducted to all the other vents.

Nar. Engine transplant is easier. Just needs brackets, all the connector bits like hoses/wires are flexible so stuff doesn't really need to line up. Heater is big fucking plastic thing full of flappy doors to make hacking it up not really feasible and vents in the wrong place but you can't move them because flappy doors won't work right and mechanical levers for flappy doors that you need to actuate somehow. I think my options are: Fix existing heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Get better condition std heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Replace with something really basic that only does the windscreen. But then I am left with useless vents in the middle and on either side of the dash. Remember I don't want this to be another racecar.

I have considered both of these things. If I recess the firewall, I'll have to change the heater because it won't fit anymore. But retrofitting a modern heater to the existing inlet hole and vents seems like it could be a lot of work.

The heater is pretty rusty too, and full of crap. Jeez it's heavy. Anyone got a good one they don't need before I try fix mine?

Removed the dash and the heater and that horrible foam rubber pad thing. Found the heat tap is seized, not sure if on or off, so had been disconnected. Also, I think I will need to use that whole patch panel. All the rust is in that one panel as far as I can see.

I would be getting a longer/bigger breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. This is from my no experience freeing a seized engine. Also, it's a cast iron head right, it's not like you are going to strip the spark plug hole threads like an alloy head if you just use a longer breaker bar or a bit of pipe on the handle to make it longer. Maybe see if you can just crack them a little, then spray it with CRC. I don't think much/any crc is going to get down in the threads if the plugs are done up tight as.

Makin' a patch panel from a firewall I got sent. I dunno how much of it I will end up using. The pile of bits I spot weld drilled off. The hotwire I got from @pusherman after paint stripper and water blaster and 400 grit. The original coating and lacquer are removed, but there is still a bit of the blue paint that was all over it. WTF was that paint, it's nearly indestructible?? Still need to scrub a bit between the spokes to get rid of any loose stuff then mask it off and repaint the black bits.

Can I remove the diagnostic plug from the engine loom and get rid of like a million wires? I think the answer is yes.... I'd just use TE1 and E1 and W to get fault codes. Like WTF am I going to plug into that big diagnostic plug on top of the engine??

I've seen that before, apparently you cannot use urethane bushes with that kit as it relies on the give in the soft rubber bushes to work. We might be getting a bit OT for sheepers discussion thread....

AFAIK early nissan stuff did, like S11, maybe S12, deffo 510. Improving the Triumph setup is still an option. I'm trying to find options to do away with the funny suspension angles the semi trailing arms do when they move. Moving the arm up causes increased negative camber and increased toe out. Reversed for moving down.

I was thinking more along the lines of not using a shit ton of fuel just cruising, rather than the engine's capacity to rev.

How do you find that ratio for revs in 5th at 100kph? I plan on putting a 1UZ and W57 into my Triumph 2500. <-- I have all these bits already. With my 195/60/14" tires I worked out I'd need something like 3.3 to 3.5:1 to have 2600-2750rpm at 100kph. I'm exploring options for the rear end because the existing semi trailing arm setup is said to be craptastic. To put an S13(same as R32, I think) rear end in I'd have to narrow it about the same as you have. I'll drop the existing rear suspension some time and offer up an S13 subframe I have access to, to see if it's remotely feasible. I suspect the front upper arm mounts will require far too much hacking of the floor.

What ratio is the diff, I couldn't find it? Is it the standard ratio for an R32 GTR R200 LSD?

I have a good center console on the way, thanks anyway.

Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph.

Do you have any photos? I feel some dejavu... I might have asked in a previous thread. Which sump did you use? My engine is a front sump, but I managed to source a Soarer 'rear' sump out of 'Murica. Initial measurements make it too close to be sure(current engine is in the way of measuring). So it will either just fit behind the cross member, or the crossmember/sump pan might require some modifications. Yeh, I've heard the Nissan diff is a common upgrade. But I don't know if I will find a suitable ratio without having to find some rare as obscure model.

So, putting a 1 UZ and a W57 in this....eventually. I'm not sure what I want to do with the rear end. I've got to upgrade the diff, cause it will break from all the torques. Without breaking out spreadsheets, I think the ratio needs to be around 3.0 to 3.5 to avoid too high revs at cruising speed. I could just replace the diff with something bigger and keep the existing suspension. But the rear suspension is supposed to be quite shit. I have the whole IRS from the LS400, but it's crazy heavy and 200mm too wide. I don't think I could make it fit easily. I could just use the diff from it, but it seems huge and heavy. The brakes are also giant and I'd need 16" wheels. The IRS from a commodore looks like it could be made to fit with less effort than the LS400 and they have the right ratios available.... If I am going to fit the rear IRS suspension from something else, I would prefer to modify the subframe to fit the car, rather than modify the car to fit the subframe. Comments....?

Fuck! my eyes!! That's RED!

Are cats still worth a bit at the metal recyclers because of the platinum in them....?

I had Howatt Engineering in Wingate, shorten and balance my propshaft, by 20mm last week. I just rocked up on my lunch break "hey, can you shorten this?", it was ready two days later. He also checks for play in the universal joints, in my case, they were still okay. Was $203

Washer jet wasn't working. How did it get a wof...? There was power at the motor without pressing the button on the stalk to make it go. Took the button apart and a plastic pin that holds a brass cone in place was missing causing it to be always on. Dang! But then I found it under the carpet!!! Button works as it is supposed to now. I took the motor apart and it was well burnt out from being on for ages. I'll find a suitable replacement at pickapart