Taistorm

Check the terminals. Make sure the battery posts and lead clamps are clean and tight. Check the earth and the contacts at the starter. Probably not the issue but these get overlooked so easily, often.

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You can get a 'good enough' keychain of depinning tools off wish cheap as chips.

Awesome build man! Turned it super clean.

Man this build just blows me away Everytime I read through it. On another level!

Try Carl at Paramount engineering in Silverdale. He's a good dude and might be able to help you out. Alternatively you could try my old work Excavator repairs in Dairyflat, Mike is always keen to help people out and they have a flash new mill that should be able to sort it. Tell him Tai said to get in touch.

How good man! I saw Choppers post yesterday on insta, looks so sweet.

Our 2017 seat ateca is 30k between services and cambelt is over 200k iirc. All other maintenance intervals are massively offset compared to older vehicles we've owned with the usual 10,000kms on oil etc.

I'm pretty sure @OSM Garage specializes in torque wrenches. He might be able to help you out/sus you a deal.

Give Luke at Advanced Seals in Silverdale a call. He might be able to provide other alternatives that might help the issue.

There's this one (ex osnz) that is now owned by Dario, in Auckland. I don't have his contact details but flick him a message on instagram, his account is Shakotankiwi.

Could just knock the studs out so it sits flat and use a softish punch to whack em on easy or prop it up on something between the studs.

Has he looked at rebuilding it? I'd take it to AES off paramount drive in henderson. Probably cost more than rock auto but much less than $500

Joel at Kaspa Transmissions Silverdale is onto it. Great bloke to deal with as well.

Not sure what are common upgrades for these but what I do know is that they have weak heads and weak turbos so yeah I probably wouldn't try and wind up the engine too much haha.

Not sure what the seals are like but with most seals if you can get a sample/dimensions/bring the housing and shaft in your local seal shop will probably have something. Advanced seals in Silverdale are awesome to deal with, also the likes of ABD are also on to it.

Cheers for that man, will have a read through and forward it on. Might be worth having them speak to another accountant for other opinions/advice as it sounds quite similar. 

Definitely gonna keep an eye on this thread as you're doing an awesome job!

Are you able to pm me with further details in regards to the taxing side of this. My parents are going through a similar process but (selling one section to me for under market value and selling another for full price) for a recent subdivision (only 2 sections). They've been advised by an accountant that the sale is included as a second income/income tax, addition to their standard earnings so the sale price less costs to do the development will be the amount they're required to pay tax on, pushing them to pay 39% on that final figure. Interested if there are other ways they can go about it (not trying to avoid tax but this is essentially their retirement safety net so the more they can keep from this the better obviously). 

Sounds like a charging issue now haha. I'd  check the alternator belt and make sure it's tight, then jump it and test it's charging voltage.

Yeah definitely sounds like battery. Check the battery posts/terminals to make sure they're clean and tight. Also check the main earth lead and terminals as these sometimes get missed. If these are sweet, jump start it and see if it goes. If it does then check to see if the battery is charging right (should be around 14v while running, if not could be a faulty charging issue or even a loose alternator belt). Also if you can, remove the battery and take the battery in to your local repco or garage and ask them to test the battery (high load test), this will determine the batteries life pretty quickly.

Chopper at Choppers auto body shop in Riverhead is a legend but he has a big wait time.

Check voltage drop across the battery and also at the starter and also voltage to both main 12v lead to starter and Exciter wire. If these are bad then either your battery or your starter could be cooked (could also high load test your battery if you have access to a tester to rule it out).

As you've mentioned as well also check terminals and wires (as well as Earth's)  if these are good bridge the starter wires and see if it starts, if it does then it's probably Exciter wire/ignition wire related. If not common symptoms like the starter solenoid just free spinning or only throwing out and not spinning, or not throwing out at all means that your starter motor is probably gone.

Damn that's cheap

Kind of relevant but whenever I sell a vehicle I write out a receipt stating something along the lines of....

Sold on an 'as is, where is' basis with no warranty, refund or guarantee implied. The buyer is happy with the current condition of the vehicle at purchase date. 

Haven't had any issues so far and I make sure the buyer reads and understands it at the time of sale.

Chopper at Choppers auto body shop in Riverhead can custom make coilovers to suit whatever application with everything required to pass cert.